DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?
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The trial and error 1.6 turbo miata.

 
Old 11-03-2017, 07:51 PM
  #21  
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Another update. With a pic.


Core was rotated ~45degrees and the locating pin was grinded off.
Bought a cheap breather filter. Still need an turbo intake filter.

The charge piping is now done. Pretty sure it is v70 piping. Had to cut twice and weld once. Also had to cut the slight silicone elbow.

$21.31 - Junkyard Intercooler piping + $2 yard entrance
$10.75 - Some misc hose clamps and 2 copper washers from ace.
$3.66 - Breather filter
$17.97 - M12x1.25 to 5/16 barb water line fittings.
$5.95 - 2 -> 2.5 90degree silicone elbow. (The blue one on the intake)
$14.91 - 5x 2inch t bolt clamps (turns out I only had the need for one of these. So I have 4 sitting around still.) (recommended to buy 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 and only a single 2 inch for the compressor outlet)
$699 - Kraken Turbo Kit 1.6 TD04L
$16.24 - 6ft of vacuum tubing + dorman exhaust bolts + vacuum tees (didnt need any tees so far)
$183 - Speeduino ecu (first batch, later batches are slightly more $$$)
$??? - the money I still own to the person who cut and welded my inter cooler piping + helped me rotate the core. Probably $20-60. Maybe a 30 pack of beer.
972.79
So right under $1000. Talk about a bargain.
And I think that is about it for now, unless I am missing something.

As for the stuff I needed that I had before, I will estimate.
$160 - mtx-l wideband
$100 - RX8 injectors
$priceless - tuning skills
$$$$$$$ - the money I'll need when my tuning skills fail
So think under $1250 for this setup so far + a lot of time and effort of course.
I plan on running it on e85 since I have no IC piping.

What I still need to buy/do:
IAT sensor
To hook up the water lines. (they aren't hooked up in the picture.)
Put in rx8 injectors
Hook up the wastegate. (it also isn't hooked up) (If anyone has the thread size for the bolts I need them. I may have lost the two bolts. x_X)

Last edited by Drezi; 11-04-2017 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:15 AM
  #22  
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Why don't you just spend the $80 and run an intercooler?
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
Why don't you just spend the $80 and run an intercooler?
Eventually I will have one. Not sure how I am going to run it though. Space is tight in the engine bay with A/C.
My major concerns now are getting an iat, a 2.5" catback, some smaller gapped spark plugs, and tuning it well.

I ended up hooking up the water lines and wastegate. Boost builds around 3.5-4k iirc. Most likely due to the tiny catback.
It pulls hard and I am running fairly rich all over. Even on stock injectors.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:40 PM
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If you flip the water neck you should have no issue with IC routing.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:25 PM
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You are talking about the water neck on the hot side that goes to the bottom of the radiator, right?
Haven't thought about flipping that.
I thought about getting the flyin miata hose.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:25 AM
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Yes, you'll have to weld up the hole for the heater core hard pipe, and drill and tap the back side for a pipe nipple and just run a hose from the neck to the firewall. aidandj can probably post some pics.

Or if you have the room, you can try making the thing like I did.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...-plates-85529/
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
Yes, you'll have to weld up the hole for the heater core hard pipe, and drill and tap the back side for a pipe nipple and just run a hose from the neck to the firewall. aidandj can probably post some pics.

Or if you have the room, you can try making the thing like I did.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...-plates-85529/

I guess I'll look into that. I will probably be doing the inter cooler piping at the start of spring, so I have some time. As somewhat of a band-aid, I am going to just run e-54. That should lower intake temps a lot.
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Old 11-13-2017, 05:50 PM
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e-cool bruh
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Old 01-20-2019, 01:06 PM
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Default Oil drain and rad hose

Originally Posted by Drezi View Post
Quick update. Went back to Cali for a about a week. Came back and put the 4.3 Torsen I had laying around in the car. Had to replace a spindle and get new axle nuts. Put some garbage tranny oil in it, but that'll be changed to Redline within 2k miles for sure.

And for the big news. The turbo is in! Although no charge piping is present. Will post pictures soon. Had quite a lot of issues with the parts fitting together.

First thing was the manifold going on. Can't put the lower center nut on. Won't fit on the manifold.
Then I drove it to the workshop and cue'd the music. Drove it with just the manifold on, yes. x) I zip tied the vayne afm open to get the fuel pump on. Will eventually get an IAT

So for getting a return line. Just had to unbolt the steering rack and hang it down. 5 bolts was all it took.
Then it was drilling time. Drilling was easy enough. Had access to a lift, a helper to slightly pressurize the crank case, and lots of grease. Used 3 drill bits. Slowly stepped up. I drilled a tad low, but oil didn't come out and I had the a/c compressor in the way aswell.
But once the hole was drilled, the threaded drain was some odd thread. Pipe thread? it didn't appear as npt. Slightly bigger than 5/8 npt fine. Maybe??? Should have just gone to the hardware store and gone for a real npt. Instead I grounded the threads off and hammered it in the pan with some JB weld on it. Kind of stupid, I know. It also wasn't that great of an angle. Engine will come out sometime this winter for seals, belts, and maybe Head gasket and head work. So not a huge deal for now. I can find a new pan and put it in at that time.

The next problem was the compressor clocking. Had to heat it up with oxy-acetylene and it took a while to rotate it, but I managed it. So I rotated the core to have the oil drain go straight down. Hooray! Well, sorta. The lower radiator hose is pretty much right under the turbo core. Managed to move it out of the way and get the hose on. The thing is, it is more than just touching it. It is leaning against it with some force. Should be able to figure that out soon with new lower radiator hose. The power steering cooler line was also in the way. Bent it a bit. Don't have power steering anymore. Only blocked off the big lines when de-powering it.

So the Turbo eventually got clocked and put on with oil lines and a return. The exhaust was a pain to get on the turbo. More fitment issues were found with the heater hose. No surprise there. It touches the v-band clamp. Modification is needed for sure. Drove it with just the supplied downpipe from Kraken. Then proceeded to use some bailing wire to keep it off the ground for a quick test drive to look for leaks. Let it idle. Had a leak with oil feed. Forgot a copper washer. oops. All was good. Decided to drive it home and all was good. Thing is... the oil return gasket started leaking. Just ordered some new td04 gaskets.

The Kraken cast iron 5 bolt td04 to v-band adapter has to use quite small bolts. Could only put 3 on for now. Not ideal, I know.

So things to do so far.
  • Lower radiator hose modification/replacement/reroute
  • Heater hose modification/replacement/reroute
  • Turbo gaskets.
  • Charge Piping
What did you do to sort the oil drain touching the rad hose?
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Old 01-20-2019, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Drezi View Post
Received everything I needed from Kraken.
Overall a 8/10
I would give it a solid 10, but stuff was missing in the kit and I pretty much got a response of, well we can tell you the specs of the parts, but we won't send you what is missing.
Seriously pissed me off, especially since everything else appears to be of great quality.
The stuff that was missing was the banjo bolts, washers, and some other misc hardware that was said to come with the kit. kinda irks me the wrong way with the response.
I can go get the copper washers for a dollar or so and the water banjo bolts can be sourced for $10-20 or so, but still...
Old post, but I just saw this and since this thread is still active I wanted to chime in.

Kraken has very thin profit margins, in fact, I really can't comprehend how he sells things shipped to the US at such a price. My kit too was missing a few things, such as one vband clamp, and some small fittings. I know they were included with the package, but the box had been RIPPED apart by customs, and literally was falling apart by the time it got to me. I can't blame kraken for it, just part of what you deal with shipping stuff overseas. I ended up buying a replacement vband clamp online and replaced the other missing items, and I'm very happy with my kit.

Keep in mind that if kraken were to send you a vband clamp, and pay for the shipping, he would start eating into his very thin profit margins.

Anyways, carry on with your build!

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Old 01-23-2019, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Kraken has very thin profit margins, in fact, I really can't comprehend how he sells things shipped to the US at such a price.
IIRC he's based in Bulgaria, so maybe **** is just cheaper there?
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry Jacobsen View Post

What did you do to sort the oil drain touching the rad hose?
I just left it touching the rad hose. The way I saw it was that it wouldn't get hot enough to cause a problem for either hose. One possible solution would be the flying Miata radiator hose.

I no longer am using the kit. I sold it to someone after I spun a bearing. Engine burned so much oil that on it's final night it had maybe 1.5 quarts in it. Woops. I moved on to swapping an fe3 in the car. Which I need to give an update on in the coming weeks!

As for the fittings... It sucked because It took so long to get replacements which delayed me having the turbo water cooled for a while. Wasn't that big of a deal.
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