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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-08-2014, 04:28 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
They seem like over kill for only 200whp. 1015cc and it said something about being pnp for a variety of vehicles. Miata wouldn't happen to be one would it?
The ID1000's are not going on the car with the new setup. Those stay in the track car with the built motor and turbo for 400whp.

I own 5 miatas, come the end of summer 2 of them will be turboed, 2 will be NA, 1 will still be sitting around as a shell waiting for a cage one day.
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:32 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
They seem like over kill for only 200whp. 1015cc and it said something about being pnp for a variety of vehicles. Miata wouldn't happen to be one would it?
Fuel Injector Clinic makes good injectors for less than the ID's and their prices go down according to the size. iirc, I paid around $300 for my 650's
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:32 PM   #43
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Damn I wish I had somewhere I could store 5 miatae.
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:36 PM   #44
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Ah I see. I'm leaning towards rx-7 460cc injectors. Suppose to be pnp
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:59 PM   #45
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Don't. Just, don't.

This day and age, there is NO good reason to be running such old injectors.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:05 PM   #46
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Don't. Just, don't.

This day and age, there is NO good reason to be running such old injectors.
$50+ shipping for them.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:06 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
$50+ shipping for them.
For used injectors of unknown condition that you should have sent out to be cleaned and flow checked at $45/per injector before you run them.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:11 PM   #48
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For used injectors of unknown conditio that you should have sent out to be cleaned and flow checked at $45/per injector before you run them.
True in all it would be $230 for used. Guess I'll check out Fuel Injector Clinic.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:55 PM   #49
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What the ever-loving-**** is with threads like this lately? I swear there's someone unemployed for the 4th time in 5 years sitting at a library terminal creating all of these.

Or maybe the M.net forum info got hacked and a lot of the stickies, forum rules, etc are telling people to go here.



OP. For like 5 years now its been known that you basically have two methods of getting a reliable manifold. Get an old school BEGI S4 or cross your fingers that the Ebay one you happen to get is a keeper.


Turbos. Get a 3071, and don't waste your time with T25 crap. Trust me, its been done on here a million times. T3 with a moderate AR is the way to go. Like .64 on the turbine housing.

Fuel. Get an Aeromotive 1000 pump and 850CC injecotrs.

Management. SAFC and a powercard for fuel. Rising rate AFPR for the fuel side.

Budget 2000 for everything.
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:03 AM   #50
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ARTech manifold and downpipe $1100
EFR6258 - $1450 (more money now than when I bought it)
Oil/water lines - ~$100
Swaintech coating - $250
Intercooler and pipes - ~$400
MS2x - $750
FIC775cc injectors - $325 (black friday sale some time ago)
Random hardware - ~$50
Heatsleeving - ~$125

There's more to the "kit". It can be as inexpensive or expensive as you make it. I wouldn't recommend that turbo for a stock motor though.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:54 PM   #51
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I need to remember to unsub these threads after commenting in then
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:18 PM   #52
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I have more $$ in my head than what I paid for my 10AE with 62K on the clock.....if you are not going to built the engine, and lets be honest, your not, than you should find a used kit from a reputable company like FM or Begi in hopes of not paying the $3000 those kits start at. I spent $18K on my car over the about a 3 month period. Not all was just to "turbo" the car. BTW, I spent another $2K last month and am still trying to figure out what I bought?

Matt, what all did you sell me?

If you only turbo the car you are doing it wrong. Suspension, wheels/tires, ECU, brakes, exhaust, and heat suppression are just a few of the supporting mods that are required to have a reliable well sorted car.

You really are asking for trouble when you mouth off to people with more posts this month than you have in your life on every forum you have ever visited. STFU and listen, read. Ask an intelligent question. "Hey Soviet, I see you bought your bad *** setup used and have been setting the standard of what stupid ******* like Amell are trying to do.....what is a fair price range for a hand build low volume exhaust manifold like your's?"

If you really want a laugh, go to the 1337 section and read what is being written about the Noob.

If you have a real question that has had some thought put into it, these guys will help you selflessly. If you **** on them by denying wanting to be spoon fed (notice what I did there, probably not.....), then expect a **** storm. I'm done with this one, time to flush.....
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Old 05-15-2014, 03:06 PM   #53
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Amen, Chris.
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Old 05-15-2014, 03:14 PM   #54
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yallz bunch of hataz
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Old 05-16-2014, 02:09 AM   #55
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Wow! I thought we had progressed past this?

I thought the eggplant had been retired and MT was attempting to change the hazing image, guess I was wrong.

OP, it goes like this...
what are your HP goals? ~200
Do you ever plan to track the car?
Do you have the necessary tools to fabricate items like a manifold and downpipe?
Do you then have the said skills to fabricate?
Where are you willing to sacrifice? Time waiting for deals? Blood and sweat doing things yourself? Performance - using a JY volvo T3 vs New Garrett 2560?

You and only you can answer these questions - the build guides here are great for learning what works and is track capable and for getting perspective on how others are accomplishing THEIR goals

Cheap street capable can be done for ~$1100-1400 but you are going to have to build it and I mean allofit.

For example:
Manifold - 175
Downpipe - 65
Rx-7 injectors - 80
eBay intercooler - 65
Piping - 80
Couplers - 40
Oil lines and fittings - 165
Megasquirt 1 V2.2 - 165
Homemade wiring harness - 20
Wideband O2 - 150
Ebay t3 - 125
JY Bosch BOV - 5

Now this will allow you to tune, albeit roughly, and not blow stuff up but you are limited. You can beat some of these prices or blow every one of them out of the water depending on how well you can shop or if you know where to look.

Your injectors aren't flow matched so you will have to run rich to avoid detonation and they won't idle well...just not a good injector, they're archaic.

Your T3 will boost slowly and once it does your clutch will quickly start to slip.

This all assumes you have tools, skills and time on your side - only you know if you have ALL 3 of these at your disposal.

For myself, I am planning the follow as of right now, but I have tools time and skill to make everything work as I would like it, but if something needs to change I plan to address that.

Manifold - DIY
downpipe - DIY
Turbo - T25
Intercooler - currently used Begi but may change
Injectors - RX-8 yellows
Oil and water lines - nothing fancy
Megasquirt V2.2 with MS2 daughter board - works great and is a cheap option
Harness - homemade
Wideband O2 - LC-1 with gauge
BOV - junkyard Bosch $5
Clutch - FM II

With any luck I'll have a build thread started here in the next couple of months but like I said, I have the luxury of time
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Old 05-16-2014, 02:11 AM   #56
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Oh, and I forgot to add...








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Old 05-16-2014, 08:50 AM   #57
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AT THE LEAST use the yellow RX-8 injectors.

Don't turbo your car if you like to count how little you've spent on it, that will result in tears.

Buy a kit if you don't fabricate stuff or don't know much about conversions, it will probably end up being cheaper for you...
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