Grumble_b

Yeah I was able to slowly rev the engine without a problem. I let the car get up to standard operating temp and tried revving it slowly without a problem. After I tried that I once again tried to rev the hell out of the car to see if I could make it die again but the car held idle and didn't die. I decided to leave the car alone for a bit to see if the car would die and it didn't.

Since this point the car has not had any CEL's or died on me. Next steps are to test the TPS and the AFM.

When I was looking the devices there are similar types of connectors which connect them to the car electrically. (They look almost like old printer cables or something. I tried to determine how to pull these off, but was unsuccessful. Are theses connected by top and bottom, and where is the switch to release them? Any tips to remove the connectors? A large part of me wishes that mazda had made the connectors comparable to those which attach the sensor on top of the thermostat.

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

From the sounds of it I am really wondering if you have a lose wire somewhere. Anyone else thinking the same thing.. I know Samnavy is thinking that and I am starting to agree with him. The wire may have something to do with TPS hense the code showing.

Like Sam said, please list all mods so we have a better understand of what maybe effecting the ecu such as a bipes wire shorting out, like sam talked about

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

grumble the afm and tps boots are held on via a wire to hold them on just pop this wire free and viola the connector comes off. I must admit you come off as worse than i thought but hopefully you will find your stride soon, GL man.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I'll just ask this one more time:

Dude, what are you using for engine management.
Better yet, post IN DETAIL your entire setup. I don't suppose you have an Emanage, Bipes, or anything that requires splicing into any wires anywhere perhcance?

Grumble_b

No wire splicing or extra engine management has bee added. The timing has been reset to prevent detonation.

Current applicable mods:
Newly swapped engine (all hoses, timing belt, and water pump replaced-- basically refreshed) verified engine was working properly before car was turbo'd; new radiator
Flying miata turbo catback
jackson racing cat. converter
begi dp
etd manifold.
RX7 MAF with filter
Vortech air fuel pressure regulator
greddy turbo kit
duel feed fuel rail with 1.8 injectors (serviced by witch hunter)
**** intercooler kit, blow off valve, RX7 Intercooler
Walbro 190HP pump

I believe that's it...

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

i think if enough of us ask we may get an answer...lol

JasonC SBB

If the timing belt is broken it will sound very different when cranking.

Grumble_b

Ok so work has been nutty lately.

I finally had a chance to test the afm, tps, and 02 sensor electrically. The AFM and TPS were both within specs (kindly provided by DOW.tom-- thanks)
The O2 sensor reading was pretty low so I replaced it, but this has not corrected the problem.

Something I noticed in neutral the car seems to idles normally until it warms up. When the engine reaches standard operating temp and I put the car in gear the idle goes weird; car threatens to stall or just stalls. Any ideas?

Could this be a timing issue? Or a bad Vortech?

mtncrvr

Timing... check it - if it idles even better just get an inductive timing light and jumper the diag pins and check it (takes 5mins) if not pull the **** off and check it. My car had almost identical symptoms and it was timing (slipped by 10deg!!). This is easy to check, I'm not saying your belt broke but it could have slipped or not been quite perfect when it was last changed and now its off. At least your car idles :-) timing light is much better than pulling the **** apart.