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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #21  
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those are good questions
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:29 PM   #22  
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BRB, posting two CA18DET turbos for sale.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:35 PM   #23  
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Yeah sell them and get a proper T25. My friend gave me a 300ZX T22 and said it was a T25. I sold it on ebay for $80 and bought a SR20 T25 for $100 on Zilvia.net.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:39 PM   #24  
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Yeah sell them and get a proper T25. My friend gave me a 300ZX T22 and said it was a T25. I sold it on ebay for $80 and bought a SR20 T25 for $100 on Zilvia.net.
Sadly, I paid $225 for it as a "fresh rebuilt SR20 T25". I'll likely cut my losses and move on. I need to find one of the V6 swap guys on m.net Engine Conversions board that wants to twin turbo their swap. They would be perfect for that.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:30 PM   #25  
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I'd expect fast as **** spool, tons of mid range, and nothing above 4-5K. Probably peaks at 150-160rwhp.
OK, say I totally wimp out FOR RIGHT NOW just to get the car up and running and sorted. After what will be 800 hours of building I want to drive it.

I have 94-95 MS PNP, stock 94 motor with unkown miles, coolant reroute, giant intercooler. New FM clutch is already installed.

Per the sticky the tan tops will support 170-190whp.

As this is pretty much a completely new car my plan is to:


1: Get car running on stock injectors, stock computer, wastegate wired open just to be sure I didn't screw up on the swap.
2: Switch to MS, still on stock injectors, wastegate wired open and figure out how to tune
3: Tune the car with the CA18DET and 10 psi or whatever it will do on stock injectors. Or, I do have a set of 550 RX7 injectors.
4: Enjoy 2,100 lb track car with 150-160 whp for the rest of the summer
5: Throw rods in motor and switch to 2860 or 2871 turbo over winter. Retune.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:36 PM   #26  
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sounds like a plan.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:43 PM   #27  
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No need to wire wastegate open, just dont connect the actuator.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:00 PM   #28  
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No need to wire wastegate open, just dont connect the actuator.
No that would let it stay permanently closed, making a ventilated block. Wiring it open prevents it from making any boost.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:06 PM   #29  
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No that would let it stay permanently closed, making a ventilated block. Wiring it open prevents it from making any boost.
External wastegate? On my car the only thing holding the wastegate closed is the actuator. If you pull the actuator off its free to flap open which the exhaust gas will do.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:14 PM   #30  
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OIC, you are talking about disconnecting the arm, not the vac line. Yeah, that would work fine. I'd wire it open to keep it from flapping around not connected.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:24 PM   #31  
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It wont flap. Itll hold open even at idle. Ive done it.

Also, that baby turbo isnt enough to ventilate the block unless you are severely starving the motor of fuel. Ive been there.
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