UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Not yet. Stupid "responsibility" gets in the way of the fun stuff.

Thanks for the link.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Metal zip ties do exist.

I used high-tech method of wraping the hoses with plain 'ol wire. You could also just use a worm type hose clamp, they're cheap enough.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

This is interesting, and i'm aware of the issue. Everything I've read argues back and forth, with both sides claiming success. Really, the issue for me is i'm using a thick, cast aluminum BOV adapter that I didn't want to drill into to attach the idle air port hose. I drilled an expendable piece of aluminum piping instead.

My setup allows me to switch the bov to the other side if necessary with a 6" piece of thin-wall steel pipe, a bov flange, and 30 seconds of welding. With this, I could rotate the bov 90* and it's a straight shot back to the intake pipe.

Some revelant info from TurboByGarrett:

"The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped)."

Do you think the turbo sees any difference?

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

See here: http://www.buycableties.com/catalog/?cid=14

I used to have some but used all of them. They are pricey, but good for heat prone areas or if you want the bling.

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

Makes sense to put it as close to the TB as possible as you are venting the pressurized air as the TB closes, but I don't think it makes all that much of a difference as the whole purpose of a bov is to keep the pressurized air from hitting a closed throttle plate and stalling out the compressor. If you open up a vent (bov) to air or the intake tract, essentially, you are providing a path for that pressurized air to take and it will take the path of least resistance.

Theoretically, I guess the further from the TB the bov is, the longer the pressure wave has to travel after reflecting off the throttle plate to get out, but I can't imagine it making a difference at reasonable boost levels. YMMV.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Yeow- that's pricey. I still have some stainless steel lashing wire (telco grade) that's like safety wire... and it's free. That's what I've used up to this point. But I can definitely see some good use for those ss zip ties.

Jefe

iTrader: (7)

Volvo used to have the BOV built into the comp housing. SAAB 900's had the BOV on both ends depending upon yr...They all seemed to work fine...

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

/\ That's what i'm talking about. Both sides seem definitive, then along comes an example that legitimately contradicts it. I think the most logical viewpoint is from brgracer:

"the further from the TB the bov is, the longer the pressure wave has to travel after reflecting off the throttle plate to get out"

This is what I tend to agree with, as the wave has to pass through the I/C. Although, wont the I/C slow/soften or at least disrupt the "shockwave" of air?

Either way, with a BOV somewhere in the system, I can't see the turbo being adversely affected.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

This is the right answer for me. I guess once you hit 30 lbs, you can just run two

getsidewaysd1

LOL!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Are you recirulating it? If so you can argue the double-pass through the intercooler.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

it looks as though your BOV could just be moved over and swapped with the pipe at the tb- no?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

That does seem plausible.

bripab007

Both my turbo Miata and my turbo OTM (Jetta 2.0T FSI) use bypass valve assemblies built into the compressor housing, FWIW.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

See how the radiator hose is right in the way?



(TB side here) With the BOV mounted so it points straight down on the left side, I could put a nice, easy 90* bend under the radiator hose, then it's a nice straight shot across and back into the intake pipe.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Also, this is the pipe at the t/b, which I would have to duplicate on the cast aluminum, greddy bov flanged pipe. Not that I won't do it if necessary, but drilling and tapping was easy on the thin aluminum pipe, plus if I screwed it up no biggie. Not so with the cast piece. Guess I should quit being a little b tch and just do it already?

-t/b side:


-hose attach:


-bov flange:

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

leave it, it doesn't really matter. You have BOV at least.

stinkonamonkey

I had that turbo on my old 95 GSX. Great turbo. I'd love a ride once you get it all done. I'll probably be putting a FM kit on in the next year or so. Im not liking a lot of the stuff they are doing though, so I might just get their exhaust manifold and turbo.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Whats up? John right? Heck yes, free rides for everyone when it's ready. I have a growing list of people to contact but I think it's great.

As for the T28, as long as it's rocking by 4K i'm good. FP sure knows how to make em.

I dig what BEGI is doing these days. (right behind the self torturous yet somehow rewarding way of the DIY kit.)

Have a good one dude. I have your contact info, i'll let you know.

Noah.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Today I hooked up a wastegate "spring" (a la someone here I forget who) I'm stalling on pulling and tapping the compressor housing to attach the wastegate actuator, and I managed to find this spring laying around. My actuator rod also has to be cut and re-welded at a different angle. The bracket holding the spring is the MAF bracket, so this is free until I do something about it. It feels a lot easier to extend than does my 8lb wastegate, so it might give me half that.

I was going to hook up my boost gauge from another car, but I forgot it's also a turbo timer, which has a vehicle-specific harness, which means more trouble than it's worth. I'll just buy a gauge. Oh well, wanted to see vacuum at idle as well.