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Old 04-17-2013, 06:35 PM   #21
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okay, is this it?




the open port here in abe's pic?
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:40 PM   #22
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I'm gonna be at our shop in abuot 30 min if you still need whatever pics just text me and I'll snap some of the 99 car
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:40 PM   #23
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Here's the culprit


The Solenoid is hanging off the left top in this pic, and the hose connections are clearly visible
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
whoops, looks like I got you turned around....

The flow of vacuum starts along the first runner, runs through the check valve towards the third runner, then goes into the vacuum canister, out the vacuum canister and through ***a vaccuum nipple which points straight down between the bottom of the third and fourth runners*** which runs to your solenoid, and then back across the front of the manifold to the actuator
Thats how mine is I believe.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:26 PM   #25
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I'm good. all plumbed back up.

The freaking BOV was on that port, and that was the next thing to fix, as it only fluttered. Now it's working again.

the one issue I foresee is that the PRC solenoid is normally open, so I'll be leaving it depowered and then powered at 5250 or whatever. when the solenoid switches, how that does the vacuum release? or do I need to find a different solenoid that's normally closed?

i hate thinking about these things, especially when I'm hungry and need to clean up for dinner.

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Old 04-17-2013, 08:04 PM   #26
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When the solenoid is activated, at low RPM, it is open, and connects the vacuum source to the actuator.

When the solenoid is deactivated, at high RPM, it blocks the vacuum source and vents the actuator line to atmosphere.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:15 PM   #27
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Also, I suspect that if you have a solenoid that is normally closed, and you want it normally open, just switch the signal source and the atmospheric source, and vice versa
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #28
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Brain I have an OEM solenoid kicking around if you want it. I just bought a 99-00 mani and its sitting on my livingroom floor. If you need any more pics or any parts let me know.

Seems like you have it figured out though.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:38 AM   #29
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I think I'm good, totally forgot about it being a three-way with a vent. So I just need to make sure the way I hook it up that vacuum will pull the butterflies closed below 5200 and then when i switch the solenoid to close, it exhausts the vacuum to atmosphere between the actuator and solenoid.

I have it hooked up, and it should work, I just haven't a chance to pull the MS back out and update the harness with an extra output.

I feel a bit of a bump in butt-dyno tq in the mid right now, so that's good, I'm not ready to pull to redline on this tune yet, so no loss for now. I'm happy I killed two birds with one stone and got the bov fixed at the same time.

I need to adjust his throttle cable next and various other little things like fix his silly slow windows.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:12 PM   #30
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I have a line coming from (I believe) the back runner that goes through a check valve and then is plugged into the solenoid. The solenoid is a 3-port solenoid with a plastic cover covering the third port, it should use the third port when the VICS should shut off to clear the vacuum. It's the black thing on the right side, though really any 3port solenoid will work.



I mounted the solenoid where the hose attachment and bolt are attached (near runner 1) right under the throttle bracket. I use the hydra to control it, but there are other options.

Edit: Just saw he got it figured out.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:23 PM   #31
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thanks bro, I figured it out. I just need to add the output to MS. The VICs is getting pulled open right now with vacuum, the mid range definitely has a bump in tq. Once I get it switching correctly I'll start doing boosted pulls and really tune this thing up.

I'm glad I pulled the upper though, because the butterflies were pretty much locked closed and i really had to work them and clean them to be able to operate with the actuator alone and not with intervention.

Just trying to make use of the system since he had it and I have free range over the car for another week. He had me upgrade his MS2 parallel to MS3x standalone and I've been fixing a lot of odds and ends (like a kinked idle valve tube) with his setup to make it full of win.


this is how the MS install looks right now, you can see I just unplugged the stock ECU and viola, standalone:



I need to look through my box of crap to see if I have a pipe to replace the MAF with now:
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:23 AM   #32
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It's working. I pulled the vent cap on the PRC valve and moved it to be plumbed like the pictures above and it works just as intended. Even setup the same in the software for activation.

One thing, I think because it was unused for so long is that the actuator struggles to open the valves back up once vacuum is applied, I'm sure after more usage and boost they loosen up, I had cleaned gunk off them when I had the upper off and at first it actually took effort to move them, so I'm hoping they actually work and this wasnt a waste of time
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:53 PM   #33
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:30 PM   #34
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Thread is pretty much over at this point.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:39 PM   #35
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I do that so I can just find it by looking up the "thread you posted in" instead of searching it

I have a 99 IM. I'm hoping to do this over the summer.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:54 PM   #36
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all it took me was 1 extra wire in the MS harness for an output and reworking some vacuum lines.
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
all it took me was 1 extra wire in the MS harness for an output and reworking some vacuum lines.
Did you wired it to one of the open outputs? (sometimes used for shift light...) or was it somewhere else?
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:35 PM   #38
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I used one of the 4 extra injectors outputs available on his MS3.
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:55 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
all it took me was 1 extra wire in the MS harness for an output and reworking some vacuum lines.
That's pretty sweet that it's just one wire and a solenoid. You should include it with all your MS builds for anyone who even mentions 99 or 00 blocks. That would have saved me the $40 I spent on an RPM switch.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:50 PM   #40
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Quote:
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I used one of the 4 extra injectors outputs available on his MS3.
I no has MS3. I have the MS2 you built me ... there's two extra outputs on that board, right?
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