Are the majority of people who are having trouble with their LC-1 running it connected to a MS?

 

Al...I went back out today and checked the timing...I had my light set to 4-cycle as opposed to 2-cycle last time I set it...but that only made it an extra 2° more retarded at idle. So i fxed that...tried a few different settings and configurations on MS to confirm the timing was accurate...it is, I'm not questioning it anymore.

So I loaded my timing map I made this morning...pulls like a bat of out hell and no indications of knock.

look at the spark angle...21.7° at 12psi...at lot more than the FM map. This is close to what I was running with Bipes at the same psi level. If you think that the stock ecu is at 25° at WOT, I was retarding 8° and advanced 6°, so hitting 22° in boost.

 

for a reference point.... here's the FM 2001 hydra on-boost defaults at least above 3500rpm.



Looks like you're running a few degrees more than me across the board--which is OK considering the lower compression.

 

yeah that table looks a lot closer to what I'm running now. I'm really just retarding 1° per every 3psi (was 1° per psi). When I fix my LC-1, i might have to take it back as I lean out the fuel.

 

and strong rods
Are those FM created defaults, or Hydra defaults?

 

thanks for the table y8s. I'm going to compare that to my MS table now...

 

1.8 spark table is a little different than 1.6.

 

Curious how the hydra defaults don't follow the factory curve with the ~4k dip and raise and fall. I know the FM link defaults do produce a similar IGN curve- throughout all vacuum/boost levels.

 

I clean up the table a bit, added some low end timing, and added a bit of retard at 4k like the stock ecu does.

 

thats pretty crazy thanks braineack i'll take this into consideration

 

the hydra does follow the 4k dip. But up top the dip is shallow to the point of vanishing.



oh and those are Jeremy's defaults for my setup. probably same for all M2 cars with a hydra.

 

You may want to consider adding a row below 20kpa for coast down--both fuel and spark. say 10kpa. make it 10° for all RPMs and it'll ease you into a lean coast condition. set the fuel to be like just above zero pulsewidth. .05 or something. it doesn't matter. make it like 17:1 afr Then make sure you never idle below 20kpa or set the last row before the 10 row to about 2kpa below your minimum idle kpa.

also, your 20 and 30 kpa rows for 0-1500 rpm should be 10 10 10 10 10 for idle. maybe 12-14 in the 30 row to help with the A/C or high electrical loads.

but that's for drivability. not power. power shmower.

 

I think you can add in a lot more timing in your vac cells.

 

What's DIYs N/A timing map look like?

 

Thanks for dyno testing the spark map, you've convinced me to get a knocksense and really try to tweak this thing.

 

It's definately more agressive. Not sure they want it shared yet.

 

I'll just email jerry.

 

It's hard to imagine them being more aggressive than near-20* advance at 220kpa. Is the MS actual advance degrees? If so Y8s is running 7* less advance around 5500. Curious to see what you find with that much advance at higher boost.

 

Anyone want to fill these in for me? see pic.

 

7 degrees is a lot, but then so is 1 point of compression.