WAY too rich - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 10-08-2007, 06:31 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bryantaylor View Post
2-yes and yes. it is plugged in but its not in the downpipe, just hanging there while my wideband is in

Dude, here's your hat. Now sit in the corner.

BTW, you didn't feel that that was critical information you should have included in the very first post?

Last edited by Ben; 10-08-2007 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:34 PM   #22
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:42 PM   #23
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the o2 is ignored at WOT, so its doesnt matter
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:45 PM   #24
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I agree with you; o2 feedback is ignored at full throttle. However your problem is that you're cruising too rich. Because you're not running an o2 sensor. Because it's dangling in fresh air.

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Old 10-08-2007, 06:47 PM   #25
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I agree with you; o2 feedback is ignored at full throttle. However your problem is that you're cruising too rich. Because you're not running an o2 sensor.
and again, its too rich when the boost is in. i can deal with cruise later, the main problem right now is the 10:1 afr under boost
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:53 PM   #26
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the main problem right now is the 10:1 afr under boost
I disagree with that statement. Main problem is you're telling the ECU to **** off by sending it completely wrong readings in closed loop. You're throwing it so much fuel in closed loop that it would take more than a blip of WOT to clear it out...who knows, you might even be blowing out spark it is so rich. And you know what? You can (and should) be boosting while not WOT.

Deal with known problems before trying to diagnose other, related issues.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:56 PM   #27
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alright then guys, can i leave the corner long enough to weld in another 02 bung in my downpipe? i was doing some 1st through 3rd gear runs and was just pegged rich the whole time
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:05 PM   #28
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I think your main problem right now is cylinder wash.
After that, your plugs and wb sensor are getting crudded up.

Tuning the FMU is really pretty easy. I continue to encourage you to ignore the (inpercise and fairly irrelevant) fuel pressure gauge and tune by (highly accurate and extremely relevant) wideband only... But I guess I like to talk to walls.

I might know a thing or two about tuning an FMU, so you may want to listen

That was with a BEGi FMU, 190lph hp, 1.8 injectors, and 9-10 psi
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:24 PM   #29
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alright then guys, can i leave the corner long enough to weld in another 02 bung in my downpipe?
Please do.
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:54 PM   #30
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i have returned back to my corner, but heres an update

i havent been tuning by fuel pressure at all, the only time i even looked at the guage was to make sure it wasnt adding fuel in vac and adding too much in boost.

well i put in the other o2, i set the afm back to the stock tension (i actually marked it) cruise is about 12.5-13:1 now. still about 10.5:1 under full boost pulls. feels a tad stronger now, pulled up to 85 decent. and i have the check valve in the line going from the intake to the FMU to act as a restector.
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:04 PM   #31
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i have the check valve in the line going from the intake to the FMU to act as a restector.
Hold up. You didn't hook the check valve in so that the FMU sees boost, but never sees vacuum, did you? As in, you're not trapping a boost signal in the FMU, are you?
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:45 PM   #32
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Hold up. You didn't hook the check valve in so that the FMU sees boost, but never sees vacuum, did you? As in, you're not trapping a boost signal in the FMU, are you?
it is hooked up the not pull vac, but to let the boost out. the FMU is working like it is supposed to, already veryifed it with a fuel pressure guage during a drive. remeber i have the cartech/begi with the bleeder valve. so i dont see how the fmu can "trap" boost. it drops back to base pressure when in vac and rises in boost

but, my dumbass didnt put lock washers on the turbo hardware, so i have to make a trip to home depot tomorow anyway.
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:54 PM   #33
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What WBo2 are you running? you shouldn't be so rich.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:09 PM   #34
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AEM ugeo.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:20 PM   #35
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the bleeder valve only sets an upper limit on the boost that the FMU sees. If you had had the check valve in so that it saw boost but not vac, then the fmu would raise fuel pressure the first time it saw boost, but wouldn't return to normal during engine vacuum conditions, thus "trapping" boost
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:34 PM   #36
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I don't think it would trap boost since the needle valve vents to atmo. I think it would trap to atmo pressure though.

How's the UEGO sensor looking? Is it coated black? I know those NGK sensors don't get calibrated like the Bosch sensors do, but I do seem to recall reading something about an AEM UEGO calibration procedure somewhere. I'd look into that if I were you.

Sam & Scott both ran 305 cc/min injectors off their stock ecu's without incident. Granted, Sam's car has sequential injection, but Scott's car doesn't.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:38 PM   #37
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I don't think it would trap boost since the needle valve vents to atmo. I think it would trap to atmo pressure though.
Perhaps. You've used an FMU, and I haven't.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:49 PM   #38
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the sensor is pretty damn black now. i could try and spray some electronics cleaner on it, but it is responding. i have had the check valve pre-fmu and post bleeder, the fmu worked the same both times.
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:10 PM   #39
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ok guys made some progress today. put a TINY restictor in the vac line going to the fmu. its actually a tad smaller than a wd-40 straw. i glued it inside a inline connector and it seems to have helped. idle is about stoich, 40-50mph cruise is still on the rich side, but not horible. managed to get boost leaned out with that restrictor. starts about 12.5, then 4500rpm or so hits about 11.5 and about 5500-6000rpm till redline hits 10-10.5. that looks like about the best im going to do with a FMU. looks like the restrictor was the biggest thing i was missing. the hole the air passes through is now about the width of a straight pin. and i managed to put a hurting on aredneck in a 3rd gen T/A, thats always a good thing. the car feels about as strong as it was on the 75shot of zex on the butt dyno.
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:15 PM   #40
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Perhaps try a dual check valve setup on the bleeder valve. Ben had great luck evening out the high-rpm fueling with it. May want to run a quick search and see what he did.
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