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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 10-09-2007, 09:41 PM   #41
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also sounds like you need to back off the overall pressure some more. turn the center screw out. you should cruise at stoich.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:28 PM   #42
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also sounds like you need to back off the overall pressure some more. turn the center screw out. you should cruise at stoich.
its all ready set at 48 psi. should i set the fmu to about 36psi or so? like the stock fpr is at full vac? im glad i didnt take off the fuel guage yet, i think i will actually do that tomorow.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:34 PM   #43
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**** the fuel gauge. I've said that before, right? They're known to be inaccurate. back down the center screw and watch your wideband.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:41 PM   #44
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**** the fuel gauge. I've said that before, right? They're known to be inaccurate. back down the center screw and watch your wideband.
will do that tomorow then
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:18 PM   #45
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the center screw is almost all the way out, still at 13ish cruise. running fairly decent now . still gets really rich up top. i will try the duel check valve and see it if helps
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:32 PM   #46
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no it won't help your cruise
did you f-up your afm flapper position? if everyone else can cruise with those injectors, you can too.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:02 PM   #47
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no it won't help your cruise
did you f-up your afm flapper position? if everyone else can cruise with those injectors, you can too.
nope, its at the stock postion. i marked it before i touched it before
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:05 PM   #48
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maybe you'll need to adjust the arm to the lean side. wierd
they're high z injectors right?
you verified the o2 sensor is working?

another member also had an odd issue like yours. his ecu just stopped going closed loop. his problem was fixed when he replaced the ecu.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:29 PM   #49
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Quote:
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maybe you'll need to adjust the arm to the lean side. wierd
they're high z injectors right?
you verified the o2 sensor is working?

another member also had an odd issue like yours. his ecu just stopped going closed loop. his problem was fixed when he replaced the ecu.
i could try and move it a couple clicks and see if it helps. and the injectors are from a 89 probe GT. i might get a new regualr 02 sensor, those are cheap. but the wideband it reading fine.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:52 PM   #50
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buy a ******* megasquirt

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Old 10-10-2007, 11:27 PM   #51
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lawl...don't you know how to solder them up bryan?
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:29 PM   #52
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takes less than an hour.
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:19 AM   #53
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actually had one on my probe. i dont want to go into all of that again. i just wanted a simple, no frills setup on the miata.
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Old 10-11-2007, 08:33 PM   #54
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305cc injectors, RRFPR, check valves, Walbro 190HP, Bipes, O2 clamps, and you still can't tune it perfectly

vs.

460cc injectors and an MSPNP

Who's got more **** bolted to their car?
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:45 PM   #55
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oh shnap.
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:48 PM   #56
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I would check the NB o2 sensor with a volt meeter, you might learn that the thing is shot, or that your WB is inaccurate, or nothing at all.
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Old 10-11-2007, 10:48 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
305cc injectors, RRFPR, check valves, Walbro 190HP, Bipes, O2 clamps, and you still can't tune it perfectly

vs.

460cc injectors and an MSPNP

Who's got more **** bolted to their car?
i have no bipes and o2 clamp. just a fmu and 310cc. so by going to a standalone, i would just lose the fmu. if i wanted to go standalone, i would have done it, but i dont.

and i will just throw in a new narrowband in this weekend.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:35 PM   #58
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put in a new narrow band, no difference. i have 100miles on this tank of gas and i only have 1/4 tank left. i think i will just put the stock injectors back in
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Old 10-14-2007, 08:59 PM   #59
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I don't know if i am correct... But how do you think the ecu is handeling injectors that are 50% larger than stock?? Normally very rich...

So you need to lower your base pressure below oem levels...

The only way i could think of is to make a bypass between the fuel suply and the fuel line between the afpr and the fuel rail. In the bypass you add a adjustable restrictor so you can adjust your static FP below stock levels.(tune that on your wideband)

At boost the afpr takes care of the rest...
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:19 PM   #60
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they are only 30% larger and it can be done. I did it for over a year and made 240 miles a tank, consistantly.

something else is going on. you should be able to lean it out enough with just the idle mixture screw on the afm and it should be golden.
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