What Is the best wideband controller for money spent? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-31-2006, 08:31 PM   #21
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how much is that cable?
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:32 PM   #22
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$189 shipped with sensor and software
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:32 PM   #23
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189 on ebay, go get IT boy ...FETCH!!!
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:42 PM   #24
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is that a prety constant price? I am buying my BOV and this sensor from this guy, and hopefully in the next few weeks I can get around to buying the cable
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:54 PM   #25
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you can buy just the cable for around $150:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=262&page=1
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:15 PM   #26
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what gauge should I use with the wideband cord in ur oppinion braineack
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:17 PM   #27
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haha well that brings it to almost the same cost as the AEM WB, but since I already have a NB guage I will get that sensor and that wire
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:18 PM   #28
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I wanted to get a gauge that displayed the numerical output and not just a sweeping range, but i ended up with the autometer phantom gauge since it matches my boost gauge. Anything will work, even a $20 sunpro gauge. Since I have my laptop to log with, I can see my numerals there and use the guage as a fail-safe incase I happen to go super lean in boost or something.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:23 PM   #29
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oh ok ,That works great for me, now I know I don't gotta spend 300 dollers on a wide-band persay
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:26 PM   #30
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you dont really need to gauge if you can datalog. and since dyno time is 100 an hour, I figure I'd spend the $200 and tune as much as I want. I just wont know my horsepower. But I'm making it to our miataturbo.net dyno day!
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:33 PM   #31
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I don't have a laptop yet, But im looking to get one, do I need a laptop with anything special on it for tuning purposes?
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:50 PM   #32
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Your emanage is going to be a pain with out the laptop. Doing any logging is going to be next to impossible with out one.

Something cheap with a serial port will work fine. The smaller the better. If it only has USB I've had good luck with a usb to serial converter.
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Old 09-01-2006, 01:24 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kags1969 View Post
LM-1 here and I love Innovates support. I have multiple cars that I tune on, so the portablitiy of the LM1 is cool.

Chris
Have you tried the Aux-box? Think i'd be worth it on the miata?
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicanmiataRacer View Post
Im going to do just that, when you install yours could you do a post about it braineack
I just ran the wires into the cabin this afternoon, and wont get back at it untill tomorrow. I'll be able to post a few pics of how I routed the wires.

I didn't want to run the wires back into the bay and then into the cabin through the firewall. I couldn't find a nice place to route them without getting close to the downpipe. I was going to drill a hole behind the driver seat belt bolt, but then it would require me to route the harness around the PPF and then between the driftshaft and exhaust, something again I didn't want to do.

So what I am doing is running the o2 sensor through the PPF. The Lamda cable is getting mounted to the PPF just below the fuel filter area. I'm going to be powering & grounding to the terminals on the FP I have installed under the fuel filter. Also installing the LED, calibration ground and switch in that general area.

I extended the 4 remaining wires about 6-7 feet and routed them into the cabin just above the fuel pump area. The 2 computer terminal wires will remain under the carpet just at the end of the center console untill needed. My serial to usb cable gives me more than enough length to sit my laptop in the passenger seat at this location.

The rest of the wires are going to be routed under the center console into the dash area. I'm installing the a/f gauge in the driver door vent. I'll be running the power lead off the ecu and ground the gauge (unless I find a better one), and the remaining wideband grounds to the same location under the dash.
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:34 PM   #35
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Here's some pics.

Here you can see the sensor point towards the passenger side, so I didn't wan't to feed it back into the driver side. I just found out there is a passage through the firewall above the ECU in the passenger footwell...but I coudn't find it. So I routed it back where the fuel filter sits:



I grounded the main unit and the calibration w/ switch to an OEM ground. It's the same ground I'm using for my Pierburg FP. It's running power to the same wire as the FP as well. The 2 dongles and the 4 remaning wires get routed into the cabin into the wheel well behind the seats:



The two dongles will chill here when not in use under the carpet. The remain two ground wires and two analog out wires get feeded under the console under the dash:

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Old 09-06-2006, 03:11 PM   #36
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No cat. Tisk tisk.
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:21 PM   #37
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I ran my sensor cable under the shifter boot and the "box" on the lambda cable is located under my radio hidden away under a blank panel. I then mounted the led and calibration button in the blank panel below my radio. I feel better about all of it except the sensor being out of the weather
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Old 09-06-2006, 06:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbrian2 View Post
I ran my sensor cable under the shifter boot and the "box" on the lambda cable is located under my radio hidden away under a blank panel. I then mounted the led and calibration button in the blank panel below my radio. I feel better about all of it except the sensor being out of the weather
That's how I did mine as well. Worked perfectly. The lambda cable easily fit under the center shifter console. I ran power and grounds into the engine bay.

Jay
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Old 09-06-2006, 09:55 PM   #39
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Did you cut the boot? I couldn't see anyway to do this, although I did think of it.

I got the sensor to do a free air calibration and I was able to program the analog. But when I ran the LogWorks it didn't find any real time data, anything I'm doing wrong?
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:22 PM   #40
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Ran it under the boot, no cutting.

As for the not reading in logworks, make sure the dummy plug is plugged in on the corect cable. Sometimes I have to twist mine while pushing in to make sure it is getting contact.
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