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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-29-2008, 09:32 PM   #81
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the desire is for a true short throw shifter. one that is not just a shortened stick. the second benefit is that it has throw stops so that there is no way that an over exuberant shift can cause damage to the tranny. ie. bent shift forks and such. the shifter itself stops the travel of the stick not the internals of your gear box. they truly have the most solid and positive feel of any shifter out there. allthough they do make a little bit of noise.
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:51 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by y8s View Post
lightweight adjustable control arms?
word.
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Old 11-30-2008, 03:10 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Parts to retrofit 11" VW Corrado brake rotors to the front. There's a thread going on about this right now. People even posted the specs on the parts and even the CAD files. Just need someone to step up and have the parts produced and tested.
And the RX7 rears...
Should be a cheap setup... Using 4 piston RX7 calipers...(love the Mazda stamped on the side)
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:25 PM   #84
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Seriously, am I the only one on here who wants a bulletproof transmission??

Half this thread has been engineering speak for spending 5000$+ on a gear set for the miata five speed case. Why can't we get a bell housing and input shaft machined for existing transmissions that are a dime a dozen, have QUALITY AFTERMARKET SHIFTERS readily available, and will take more abuse than a 4 cylinder miata could ever dish out??

You can get a BRAND NEW TREMEC TKO600 for $2200.00!

Tremec 5-Speed TKO 500/600 Transmissions - JEGS

TTC: News & Events

I picked mine up for just over $1100.00 and beat the **** out of it for 3 1/2 years in my truck. These cars don't even NEED TKO600s, you can get a TKO-3550 which are common in mustangs, or just a straight T5. Hell, these motors would be fine with a T45 from a newer GT, or even the 4 cylinder fox T5. My last fox T5 I got from a salvage company for $100.00. Best of all, if you ever wanted to swap in a V8 just buy a scatter housing from Jegs or local speed shop to fit a T5 to whatever 8 cylinder model you have.
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:31 PM   #85
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I would LOVE to see a conversion kit to swap a T5. Common transmission that's cheap and easy to find and a lot stronger than our stock box. No idea about fitment though. Wasn't Lazzer on the forum doing a T5 swap a while back?

EDIT: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=267843
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:20 PM   #86
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There are some things that stopped me from taking the transmission swap up. Its not a hard task, but it can be pretty expensive for me to front the money to build it. I can put together an estimate on the cost, but you guys would have to be willing to pay upfront for the units and wait a while for it while I cad cnc and fab everything thats necessary. I have to buy a transmission, and basically start from there.

We would need to open a thread just about that, and squak it over. You can open it or I can depending on what you think about what I've said.

Last edited by TravisR; 11-30-2008 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:28 PM   #87
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Travis-could you edit your post and define "this". You talking about a T5 kit, control arms, shifters? If you're talking T5 kit, I'm all ears.
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:33 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
I would LOVE to see a conversion kit to swap a T5. Common transmission that's cheap and easy to find and a lot stronger than our stock box. No idea about fitment though. Wasn't Lazzer on the forum doing a T5 swap a while back?

EDIT: MX-5 Miata Forum - T5 trans swap. T5 to BP bell housing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eliminator77
the stock rear CAN handle 450hp no problem...


That guy needs to lay down the crack pipe. I'd like to see him say that to say, Sav's face..


Yeah I remember Lazzer was working on it, but FFS its been 10 months with no update. I've done some research myself to see if I could find a designer and source for a bell housing with no luck. Haven't really had the time to sit down and do some drawing and measurments to see how feasable it would be.

Things I've been thinking about which would present problems would be the PPF and transmission mounting. I think even with using the T-Bird 8.8 rear differential (or should I just keep my Torsen, cause it'll easily handle 450hp ) some sort of PPF or torque arm should be utilized. Theres something to be said about driveline ridigidity connecting the differential subframe to the transmission and engine.

For Example, the 4th generation Camaro uses a convential rear transmission mount via a crossmember that bolts to the unit body, but STILL has a torque arm connecting the transmission to the rear differential (which is a SOLID axle on 3 link panhard arm, btw). Just something to think about.
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Old 11-30-2008, 08:02 PM   #89
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The first step would be to go out to the junkyard with a tape measure and get basic dimensions of the transmissions your interested in. There is alot of luck in that alone without having to move the engine forward to make the turret sit in the right place. Then you have girth, and length, and all that to contend with.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:08 PM   #90
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A T5 kit would be nice.

I have one. What about bulletproof rebuild kits for the master and slave clutch cylinders? I'd pay more than AutoStoned prices for one that would last for several years.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:10 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
A T5 kit would be nice.
It would be SICK! I want to make big power with my current car, but I hate the 6 speed and I've killed over 10 - 5 speeds in the past.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:19 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
A T5 kit would be nice.

I have one. What about bulletproof rebuild kits for the master and slave clutch cylinders? I'd pay more than AutoStoned prices for one that would last for several years.
I'm gonna say a lot of the reliability problems is maintenance related or improper rebuilding/installing of new parts. My mom's side of the family owned a hydraulic shop, so I've been around them a while. Hydraulics don't really fail from wear. (at least on a car they don't) They fail from contamination and improper rebuilds.

And elusjuan- while I agree with you, elliminator is making a ****-ton of power on a stock rear end. Like 500 and something to the wheels and says it's fine. But I'm pretty sure the car is a dyno queen and doesn't see track abuse or hard shifts, etc.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:23 PM   #93
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I think it's a highway roll racer, so yeah no hard launches. He also runs drag radials which probably would hop less than the r-comps Sav was running when he blew his.
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:58 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
...elliminator is making a ****-ton of power on a stock rear end. Like 500 and something to the wheels and says it's fine. But I'm pretty sure the car is a dyno queen and doesn't see track abuse or hard shifts, etc.
I'm pretty sure that he's referring to using the factory rear end with a clutch type lsd or something other than a stock torsen in it. His car is more than a dyno queen, pm him over at .net and ask him about it. There's a few cool videos around of the car.

Last edited by JayL; 12-01-2008 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 12-01-2008, 01:20 AM   #95
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I've often thought about a T5 or T56. I think it would be killer. biggest problem is the PPF. now a camaro has something similar that ; at the tranny end, has something that looks like the top of a shock. ie. a stud with a couple of bushing. of course that is because a camaro has a live axle and it needs to pivot there.

so in thinking about it you would need some sort of cross member to bolt the tranny to. you could at that point make some sort of "bushed" bracket to bolt the ppf to the new cross member. I'm pretty sure that the bell housing will unbolt from the T series trans (correct me here if I'm mistaken) so in a kit I would like to see:

1)Bell housing or adaptor plate.

2)input shaft to mate to miata clutch/ or clutch set to mate with a T series tranny. I think an input shaft would be best so that your starter and flywheel could still be used.


3) frame rails that incorporated a tubular X-brace that acted as a tranny mount and ppf mount. that way you could kill two birds with one stone; extra chasis stiffnes and a stout gear box.

4) drive shaft or adaptor yoke depending on tranny length.(optional)


in an ideal world that would be nice, but i see a few problems with it all.
1) size. . . the miata tranny is pretty small and realestate is tight in the hump. especialy when you have a 3" exhaust up in there. I'm thinking most turbo guys these days are running such an exhaust. and I'm not thinking that this is the type of thing NA guys are thinking about. I'll have to look into some of the V8 guys setups, but of all the V8 conversions I've ever seen have used a slush box. I'm sure that somebody has done it though. I guess that would be a good place to check about fitment. I'll see what I can find.

2) gear ratios. is there a car out there with a T5/T56 that has gear ratios close to those of a miata, or better for a turbo miata?

3) you'd still need a ripper shifter for the damn thing.


just read the Lazzer thread, does anybody know if he ever finished?

Last edited by dynokiller90; 12-01-2008 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:11 AM   #96
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I remember the Monster Miata guys claiming at least 12 years ago that the T5 is about 40 lb. lighter than the Miata five speed. You can get custom ratios and beefy parts for it, too.

The crossmember/torque arm strategy you describe is similar to what people are doing to put LSx motors in FDs.

For bellhousings to connect anything to anything, check some of the Australian vendors like Dellow Automotive.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:19 AM   #97
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I want a good brake duct setup.

MiataMania.com NC brake duct system

The Moss setup is only for NC, and I don't know how good the fitup of the backing plate is. I can offer some really good recommendations for how the backing plate should fit the rotor, and how flow paths should work.

James Walker, Jr.'s book has some good photos of the Turner Motorsport M3 ducts.

I'd like to use the fog light openings in the bumper of my '99 for inlets, and have the backing plates mate up with 1.8 front rotors. If there was a version for Sport rotors, that would be cool, too.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:16 AM   #98
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Our rotors are a centrifuge type with angled air directors on the interior right? To tell you the truth I haven't looked under there to see.

I read an S.A.E. article describing how they worked though, and from what I remember the air directors pull ambient air from around the edges and accelerate it into the center of the rotor. So if you wanted to make one of these based on that principle, wouldn't you want the air injected straight into the side? I know I've seen the pictures of the F1 style ducts that are semi triangular where they direct a great deal of air right into the side of the rotor.

I wouldn’t think a ducting system that simply blew air on top of the rotor would do you much good. The amount of turbulence in the air greatly modifies the amount of convection that can take place. The airflow directors in the rotors serve as turbulators (like whats in your radiator and for the same reasons) and induction devices increasing the efficiency of the process and increasing the quantity of fresh air as well. This looks like it comes around the side and hits the rear rotor which wouldn’t put air inside the rotor and do a whole lot, as there is little turbulence or surface area to help the cooling process along. It could be our rotors work differently or I've got things out of proportion in my head as well.
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:07 AM   #99
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so make a duct that narrows down to a slit blowing on to the front side of the rotor? Of course you would have to give the slit roughly the same surface area as the circular opening in the bumper, but I could see this helping. I don't see a need for new transmissions when tracked cars are doing fine on 5 speeds, and who doesn't already have a spare laying around? Its just part of owning a miata
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:55 AM   #100
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How about a cam shaped throttle cable pulley for the throttle body? To allow a little longer pedal travel and more control of modulation at partial throttle. The first 75% of travel controlling the first 50% of throttle opening, with the last 25% of pedal travel opening the remaining 50%.

If you want to go above and beyond couple that with a 65 or 70mm throttle body that accepts the miata tps and you can ship it to my house anytime you want.
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