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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-03-2008, 12:12 PM   #101
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I like the trigger wheel idea. Mine works great, but in retrospect it's laughable how much time I spent getting it right. You won't sell a million of them, but I think in quantity they'd be pretty cheap to do. And dealing with the damn CAS has got to qualify as the single most frustrating thing in all of the Miata-MS community.

Remember that the '90-'95 cars didn't have the factory sensor, and I'm not sure if the 1.6s even have a place to mount it.

Dealing with the ShortNose crowd might be an issue, but I'd expect that one design could be made for work for all the '92-'97 cars. I'm less concerned about the NBs, as they've already got a fully supported (by MS2) factory setup.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:03 PM   #102
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I'd be interested in traction bars. I've got a picture somewhere of my car just after leaving the tree, and you can see the rear wheel is quite a bit farther forward from normal.

Too bad you don't make stuff for BG-chassis cars, too- I could use some bars for the EGT.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:35 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I like the trigger wheel idea. Mine works great, but in retrospect it's laughable how much time I spent getting it right. You won't sell a million of them, but I think in quantity they'd be pretty cheap to do. And dealing with the damn CAS has got to qualify as the single most frustrating thing in all of the Miata-MS community.

Remember that the '90-'95 cars didn't have the factory sensor, and I'm not sure if the 1.6s even have a place to mount it.

Dealing with the ShortNose crowd might be an issue, but I'd expect that one design could be made for work for all the '92-'97 cars. I'm less concerned about the NBs, as they've already got a fully supported (by MS2) factory setup.
i see, just let us shortnosers flap in the wind huh?
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:48 PM   #104
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i see, just let us shortnosers flap in the wind huh?
Pretty much. Your engines won't be around for much longer anyway.

It might be possible to come up with a single base design that can be drilled to accommodate all years, but it's difficult with your engines. As I recall, the central bolt holds the pulley to the crank, yes? With the later cars, the big bolt holds on the timing gear sprocket, and then the pulley bolts to that with four smaller bolts. That's what made it easy to do for the longnose.

Though now that I think about it, this problem may be simpler than I'm giving it credit for. I say this because JR seems to use a single aux pulley design for all of its 1.6 kits, though confusingly, their Boost Upgrade kit is specific to the mid-'91 changeover at VIN 209445.
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:37 PM   #105
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:17 PM   #106
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+1.

BTW Greg; I just saw your ride. Very nice work!
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Old 12-05-2008, 06:23 AM   #107
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I would love to see a sealed monoball bushing setup like the BMW's use.

+1 on the T5/T56 trans adapter.
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:22 PM   #108
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how about blockoff plates for EGR and 1.6 idle valves? I dont need either, but lots of people do.
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Old 12-06-2008, 01:57 PM   #109
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Is the 1.6L idle valve the same as the 1.8L?
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:50 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by iluvspd View Post
I would love to see a sealed monoball bushing setup like the BMW's use.
Won't be cheap:

BMW sealed monoballs here

These are used at the outer end of the upper control arms in the rear, because the spring is loaded between the upper control arm and the body. This joint supports basically the entire weight of the rear corner of the car. Rubber would last about 5 miles.

There are some Acuras that use a similar part in the front upper control arms.

Don't know dimensions on either part.
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:01 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by y8s View Post
how about blockoff plates for EGR and 1.6 idle valves? I dont need either, but lots of people do.
Pretty sure you can get the EGR plates from BEGI, not sure about 1.6 idle valves.
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