Yet another coolant reroute with pics. - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-09-2008, 09:01 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Zabac View Post
Looks good Rafa, I would still try to take it to the coldside under the intake manifold.
I planned on using the same 1.8 housing there as you.
I asked my mechanic to do it that way but he wasn't too pleased with that option and I really don't care one way or the other (at least as a first try).

Paul, congrats man; that is a sick engine bay!

BTW, what's that heatshield and who sells it? Are you happy with the results?
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Old 07-09-2008, 10:24 AM   #22
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looks to be tdr
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Old 07-09-2008, 10:48 AM   #23
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looks to be tdr
Oh, ok; thanks man!
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:27 PM   #24
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So the thermo sits at the front of that pipe? I guess there's water flow past it at a T to the water pump? Something has to get hot water to the thermo or it won't open! Any more pics?
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:32 PM   #25
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I don't think he is sending any water back to the waterpump other than from the radiator. I think he is going without the mixing manifold altogether and replaced it with a 1.8 t-stat housing like Paul.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:10 PM   #26
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I don't think he is sending any water back to the waterpump other than from the radiator. I think he is going without the mixing manifold altogether and replaced it with a 1.8 t-stat housing like Paul.
AMEN.

I put a plug on the mixing manifold line. Only water going to the pump is the one coming out of the radiator.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:14 PM   #27
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So the thermo sits at the front of that pipe? I guess there's water flow past it at a T to the water pump? Something has to get hot water to the thermo or it won't open! Any more pics?
I'll see if I can provide more pics when I get home tonight.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:14 PM   #28
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I guess my ignorance is showing here, but... Without water going to the pump, you have STAGNANT water in the head until the thermostat opens??
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:17 PM   #29
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I guess my ignorance is showing here, but... Without water going to the pump, you have STAGNANT water in the head until the thermostat opens??
That is why you drill a hole in the t/stat flange. To allow some flow until it opens and to let the t/stat see the temperature rise and activate. With no heater core, I recommend 3/16" diameter.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:50 PM   #30
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Ok, that would help. I guess the head might warm up faster with the lower flow... But you'd think the motor as a whole would warm up faster if you cycled the water through the head, and would certainly prevent hotspots.

Still, it seems you could accomplish this with a T right at the thermo, aside from that, I like putting the thermo out front. I wonder what I'd have to do to do this. I sure want to do a reroute on my car!! I'd feel so much better about putting the 180 (190?) OEM thermo back in.
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:08 PM   #31
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I guess my ignorance is showing here, but... Without water going to the pump, you have STAGNANT water in the head until the thermostat opens??
I must say my ignorance also shows here because I always thought there would be moving water everywhere in the cooling system at all times.

Why do you say that there is no water going to the pump? Doesn't the pump start pumping water the minute one turns the engine on?

Please accept my apologies in advance. I'm only trying to learn.
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:24 PM   #32
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The water pump tries to suck from the bottom of the radiator and throw water back along the diameter of the pistons and up into the head.

If there is a heater core in the circuit(OEM), the water goes out the back of the head, through the heater core and back to the suction line of the water pump.

When the thermostat opens(it sees temperature rise from the small line that cools the intake manifold on the 1.6 and the oil cooler on the 1.8) water then flows in both directions(through the t/stat to the radiator and still through the heater core.

The problem is that when the t/stat opens, most of the flow goes by the t/stat and very little to the back of the head and cylinders since water takes the course of least resistance.

If the heater core is eliminated in the reroute, there needs to be a way of getting flow to the back of the engine before the t/stat opens. This is accomplished with an extra hole in the s/stat flange.

Once the t/stat opens, you have a continuous loop of water from the bottom of the radiator, through the pump, with a large volume of water from front to back on the engine and out the back to the top of the radiator.
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:46 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
The water pump tries to suck from the bottom of the radiator and throw water back along the diameter of the pistons and up into the head.

If there is a heater core in the circuit(OEM), the water goes out the back of the head, through the heater core and back to the suction line of the water pump.

When the thermostat opens(it sees temperature rise from the small line that cools the intake manifold on the 1.6 and the oil cooler on the 1.8) water then flows in both directions(through the t/stat to the radiator and still through the heater core.

The problem is that when the t/stat opens, most of the flow goes by the t/stat and very little to the back of the head and cylinders since water takes the course of least resistance.

If the heater core is eliminated in the reroute, there needs to be a way of getting flow to the back of the engine before the t/stat opens. This is accomplished with an extra hole in the s/stat flange.

Once the t/stat opens, you have a continuous loop of water from the bottom of the radiator, through the pump, with a large volume of water from front to back on the engine and out the back to the top of the radiator.
Thanks!

Even I could understand that explanation!
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:05 PM   #34
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i just drilled holes in my thermo to let a lil water flo........ also i got a 160 thermo.... so when it opens max temp you see is prob 175 while the water is trans... i dont see a reason to put a t and make more chance to have a water leak someware else. IMO

ill see if i could get someone to post pics of my coolant route.. i ran it on the cold side... 1 just to keep it away from heat and 2 i got a top mount
anyways enough of my yappin

proceed
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Old 07-23-2008, 09:40 PM   #35
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Let me see if I can get some help with the issue I'm facing now.

I finished my reroute and; if I don't turn the A/C on the temp on my Autometer gauge won't go over 190* no matter what. I can be in rush hour and everything is perfect. I turn the A/C on and everything goes to hell! My Autometer gauge will reach 235* but the car's temp gauge won't budge.

Anyone have a clue about what could be wrong?

I checked both fans and they're working properly.

I appreciate the input.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:18 AM   #36
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Looks nice. And as far as the crazy temps go, maybe your stock sending unit is screwed up -or- the autometer is bad.
-Tim
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:35 AM   #37
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Pictures of the whole setup?

What radiator?

What fans?

Where is the Autometer sensor?
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Old 07-24-2008, 01:47 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what miata? View Post
i just drilled holes in my thermo to let a lil water flo........ also i got a 160 thermo.... so when it opens max temp you see is prob 175 while the water is trans... i dont see a reason to put a t and make more chance to have a water leak someware else. IMO

ill see if i could get someone to post pics of my coolant route.. i ran it on the cold side... 1 just to keep it away from heat and 2 i got a top mount
anyways enough of my yappin

proceed
I have to read this thread more, but.... If you need to host images, PM me, I have TONS of space.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
The water pump tries to suck from the bottom of the radiator and throw water back along the diameter of the pistons and up into the head.
....
Once the t/stat opens, you have a continuous loop of water from the bottom of the radiator, through the pump, with a large volume of water from front to back on the engine and out the back to the top of the radiator.
Needs more pictures. Morning logic doesn't follow that much text.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:17 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Pictures of the whole setup?

What radiator?

What fans?

Where is the Autometer sensor?
My setup:

PWR Radiator

Fans: I used to have the FCM fan shroud with the spals but I took part of it out because the spals didn't flow enough air. I know have the stock fan on the driver side (this is the one that turns on when the tstat sees the temp climb) and the spal from FCM on the passenger side (turning on when the A/C is on only).

The Autometer sensor was welded to the top of the stainless steel pipe.

I promise to take some pics and upload them this afternoon.

Bruce, I went to my mechanic's shop this morning and did a test. I left the car idling with the A/C on for about 5 minutes; the temp on the Autometer gauge went up to 210*. Without turning the car off or moving it, I turned the A/C off and 2 minutes later the Autometer gauge was reading 185*. I'm stumped.

BTW, thanks for the help!
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