Should DIYAutoTune.com offer a learn to solder kit?
07-18-2011, 01:57 AM
#41
Pretty good deal. I and few friends have this one.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=374-100
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=374-100
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07-18-2011, 08:43 AM
#42
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How much do you guys think is reasonable for a good iron?
As an example, with a better tip on it, this unit would probably be "adequate" for building an ECU.
If you want a really good iron, this one is the current-gen equivalent of the one I use. It's $83.55. Is that too much to pay to have a really good iron to assemble your $450 ECU with, and that'll last for decades?
As an example, with a better tip on it, this unit would probably be "adequate" for building an ECU.
If you want a really good iron, this one is the current-gen equivalent of the one I use. It's $83.55. Is that too much to pay to have a really good iron to assemble your $450 ECU with, and that'll last for decades?
(And when we do any surface mount soldering? We use an electric pancake griddle. Seriously. It's OK for short prototype runs and the like.)
Now, I will differ slightly on the matter of solder. Silver-bearing solder, and especially the lead-free variety, just isn't as good as the old stuff. The absolute best solder for general-purpose electronics work is what's known simply as 63/37 (63% tin, 37% lead).
Why is this? Because it's idiot-proof. 63/37 has the lowest melting point of all solder alloys, and more importantly, it has virtually no plastic range. Most solder alloys go through a gradual phase change from liquid to solid as they cool, and so there's a point where, if you move the parts at all, you wind up with a crappy, crystalline-looking joint which is likely to break. 63/37 is unique in that it transitions from a liquid to a solid almost in a single step, so the chance of producing a bad joint is reduced.
Why is this? Because it's idiot-proof. 63/37 has the lowest melting point of all solder alloys, and more importantly, it has virtually no plastic range. Most solder alloys go through a gradual phase change from liquid to solid as they cool, and so there's a point where, if you move the parts at all, you wind up with a crappy, crystalline-looking joint which is likely to break. 63/37 is unique in that it transitions from a liquid to a solid almost in a single step, so the chance of producing a bad joint is reduced.
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07-18-2011, 08:47 AM
#43
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My favorite solder of all time is the radio shack high tech solder which is... 63/37!
Melts quickly, cools quickly, is awesome.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062718
Melts quickly, cools quickly, is awesome.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062718
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07-18-2011, 12:49 PM
#44
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I've heard of folks using toaster-ovens for reflow. You're probably the first person I've heard of who uses a pancake griddle. We don't do any whole-board reflow here in the lab, we just use the Metcals and the microscope. And yeah, we do occasionally assemble entire prototype boards that way. I don't think it would be practical for us to reflow them in-house, as you'd need a silkscreen setup to apply the paste (we use a lot of 0402 discretes and really fine-pitch QFP ICs. Applying paste by hand would probably bridge every single pin on the board.)
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07-18-2011, 01:48 PM
#45
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We flow entire boards with the griddle. We have stencils made for each type of board to help apply the solder paste. This allows us to rapidly produce reasonably priced prototypes and other testing implements.
A lot of our rework can be done with a standard iron.
A lot of our rework can be done with a standard iron.
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07-18-2011, 01:50 PM
#46
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My favorite solder of all time is the radio shack high tech solder which is... 63/37!
Melts quickly, cools quickly, is awesome.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062718
Melts quickly, cools quickly, is awesome.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062718
but get it in .022"
Plus their $7 45-watt iron and you're working with what I use every day.
I had a better a Weller WLC100, but the wand burnt up and i just went back to my RS iron and plug it into the Weller station. The RS tips are small enough but only last a few builds and round off very quickly. One of these days I'll replace the wand for the Weller again, they had much better tips.
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07-22-2011, 10:24 AM
#47
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How about a fuel injector tester/driver? We could use it to test/clean injectors with some sort of preset program...
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07-22-2011, 02:49 PM
#48
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We've kicked around the idea of an injector test bench, but need to figure out if it can be done affordably.
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08-24-2011, 04:09 PM
#49
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We ordered a couple Velman kits (it would have provided a good ready-made option to get started with had things turned out better) and weren't impressed. All the parts were dumped in one big bag with no labels, the board lacked plating so it was hard to get solder to stick, and the one sided board had traces that could easily peel off. So we'll be designing all the learn to solder kits in house and having our own team assemble them.
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11-16-2011, 03:37 PM
#53
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99% of the amperage occupy 1% of the circuits?
Oh wait, that's the headlight harness in my '73 F250
Way off topic, but someone needs to build a decent 4v throttle body with a TPS that's not 1000cfm but will still bolt to a standard Holley 4150/4160 squarebore carb flange
Put TBI injectors in it and I'll buy like 6 of them.
Oh wait, that's the headlight harness in my '73 F250
Way off topic, but someone needs to build a decent 4v throttle body with a TPS that's not 1000cfm but will still bolt to a standard Holley 4150/4160 squarebore carb flange
Put TBI injectors in it and I'll buy like 6 of them.
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11-16-2011, 08:26 PM
#54
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I built the MegaStim to ensure I was man enough to build a MegaSquirt. 
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11-21-2011, 02:25 PM
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This has been on back burner - there's a couple other projects going on, but you haven't seen the last of this one. Things on the drawing board include a fan controller and shift light, and maybe some others.
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11-21-2011, 08:34 PM
#56
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Now that my airbag is fuxored (removed driver and pass side) I have a light flashing at me I would like to repurpose. And since I don't have an autotragic trans I also have a "hold" light that is bored. I may use a standalone light at some point but I would like to avoid clutter for now and make use of these currently worthless indicators. Since I have two of them they could be sequential.
Lars, Occupying an empty parking lot on the weekend when I could be grinding rubber off of my alloys at Road Atlanta sounds slightly less than inviting. Now if they haven't done it by The Mitty we will disrupt every classroom session with bullhorns. Do you hear me Matt? lol.
And Joe Perez will be there protesting the baseless incarceration of the MS3X schematics or some such lost cause. I think he is the 1% or something. I'll support Joe in whatever because I'm a puppet to the master. I drove his car once at an autocross so we're tight.
Lars, Occupying an empty parking lot on the weekend when I could be grinding rubber off of my alloys at Road Atlanta sounds slightly less than inviting. Now if they haven't done it by The Mitty we will disrupt every classroom session with bullhorns. Do you hear me Matt? lol.
And Joe Perez will be there protesting the baseless incarceration of the MS3X schematics or some such lost cause. I think he is the 1% or something. I'll support Joe in whatever because I'm a puppet to the master. I drove his car once at an autocross so we're tight.
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11-21-2011, 11:11 PM
#58
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Actually, I was suggesting DIY Autotune's tent at The Mitty. If you are there I am as well, good sir. Bullhorns will be available. To The Mitty we ride! {clops coconut shells together rhythmically}
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12-26-2011, 09:16 PM
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Yeah, I didn't get a shift light kit in my stocking and I'm a bit miffed.
I've tried to solder trailer wires and a few other things in the past and it always worked but went poorly. I lack tools and training. Chinese harbor freight iron and the solder that comes with it doesn't help. And having no helping hands always sucks.
I PM'd Brain a few days ago about redoing the jumper harness on the MS1 to fit my car's harness because it is a different year from what it is set up for and haven't heard back. I'm afraid to touch the little bitty pins and wires with my skills and tools. It's not that I don't know what needs to be done, but I don't trust myself to do a nice job and I don't want it to be crappy and risk poor connections.
I've tried to solder trailer wires and a few other things in the past and it always worked but went poorly. I lack tools and training. Chinese harbor freight iron and the solder that comes with it doesn't help. And having no helping hands always sucks.
I PM'd Brain a few days ago about redoing the jumper harness on the MS1 to fit my car's harness because it is a different year from what it is set up for and haven't heard back. I'm afraid to touch the little bitty pins and wires with my skills and tools. It's not that I don't know what needs to be done, but I don't trust myself to do a nice job and I don't want it to be crappy and risk poor connections.
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