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Old 10-21-2012, 10:57 PM   #21
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I've tried sources everywhere on the manifold including directly behind the mani before and pre-tb too and there was no difference.

He's dropping off like he has a massive leak somewhere or something, or completely choking off somewhere. Boost signal wouldn't affect this nearly as significantly.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:06 PM   #22
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Here's a link to the turbo I have... T3 INTERNAL WASTEGATE TURBO CHARGER .48ar [TC-022] - $350.00 : GodSpeed Project, The Art of Performance

Not that it has much info.

I'll check for holes in my intercooler pipes... Though I thought I sorted that out after the first time it happened to me Also noticed some weird chattery like noise. I believe it's coming from my clutch. If I slip the clutch slowly while stationary the noise stops, though sometimes I don't get the noise at all. I don't know, I have an FM level 1 so It should be fine, only been in there for a year.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:17 PM   #23
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That noise is most likely your throw out bearing just barely touching the pressure plate. Does it go away when you slightly touch the pedal?
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:22 PM   #24
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I don't think it's the throwout bearing. It sounds like something knocking on something else. But like I said it doesn't do it all the time. At first I thought it was my exhaust rattling just a little but I don't think that's the case. Again as soon as I engage the clutch it goes away. I'll try and get a video of it sometime this week.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:25 PM   #25
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My car makes a weird racket too...it's not my clutch, it's not DET, it sounds heat shieldish, but not sure what.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:20 AM   #26
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Where's the log of the pull that simply can prove/disprove the wastegate/boost control is functioning properly?

and am I ready correctly? You have VVT but you're not controlling it?
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:10 PM   #27
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I tested my mbc and any change I made did not affect boost at all. So I turned up wastegate. In in the log run2.msq you can see boost spikes to about 200kpa and then immediately drops off again. Yes I have an ms2 built before there was the ability to control vvt
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:19 PM   #28
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the inability to maintain boost doesn't help, the VVT not being controlled doesn't help either.

get the VVTuner STAT.


Here's the VVT full retard vs full advance:




youre running full advance...i'd prefer both. But your leaving TONs of power on the table but not controlling your cam properly, not to even mention controlling the turbo speed.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:49 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Here's the VVT full retard vs full advance:
I'm masturbating to this
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:54 PM   #30
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Fitting the VVT head in your case could result in spool like your first EFR and the top-end of the current.
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:02 PM   #31
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I'd gladly fap to that
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Fitting the VVT head in your case could result in spool like your first EFR and the top-end of the current.
I bet the vvt bigger turbo spool would be even better than the smaller turbo spool.


OP: setting up VVT for boost is easy. Basically retard the cam until 2000RPM. Advance the cam fully until the RPM that the turbo is almost fully spooled. Retard fully after that.

Don't fully advance or retard the cam in a short RPM window. Go from full retard to full advance in 1000RPM.

For your turbo, fully advance the cam fully by 2500RPM, then retard fully after 3500RPM.

After you set this up, you will need to redo your fuel table. It shouldn't go dangerously lean while you tune this, but regardless keep an eye on your AFRs.

If you have nice high oil pressure, you'll be able to advance the cam even sooner. Which is better.


I don't know jack **** about tuning VVT for cruise. I drive flat out.
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:22 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
I don't know jack **** about tuning VVT for cruise. I drive flat out don't drive my car.
lolol sry couldn't resist
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:29 PM   #34
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Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking about having reverant upgrade my ms2 anyways. I guess I'll just deal with it until I get my new setup on the car. If I wanted to go about switching from full retard to full advance, just to see if there's a difference on the street, how would I go about doing this?
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:33 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorillazfan1023 View Post
If I wanted to go about switching from full retard to full advance, just to see if there's a difference on the street, how would I go about doing this?
Buy, install, tune the VVTuner?
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:07 PM   #36
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Ah, didn't know if it was a setting I could change now. Makes sense.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:18 PM   #37
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I dunno either, I'm sure you can trip a solenoid?
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I dunno either, I'm sure you can trip a solenoid?
Eh, it's extra work. My car, slow as it might be is still faster then a lot of other "sports cars". Also it's an excuse to buy new parts.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:08 AM   #39
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You ******* suck

I bet you that your car drives like ****. It doesnt hold power to redline and it probably drives like a limp dick.

You could actually have a power curve but instead you ***** out and wont install a stupid solenoid. Fail

Also i bet you lose to most new sports cars with your fail power curve.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:25 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
You ******* suck (because you have a car that stays running)

I bet you that your car drives home from the dyno too. My car doesnt hold power to redline because my hydra makes it pop and carry on.

I thought i could actually make 600whp, but instead i pussied out. Fail

Don't be like me and use a turbo that came from a diesel truck, unless you want to have a car that you can't drive because it'll break everytime it leaves your garage.
Thanks for your generous words of wisdom.
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