just dynoed at 20psi
#21
Guys, he's using the Link Piggyback. From what I know, that thing doesn't have the ignition fidelity to do a whole lot from a timing perspective, so he's down a ton of power there... and we all know how awesome 5th injector setups work.
OP, did you do pulls at different boost settings, or start out low and work your way up to 20psi, or did you just pay the $50 for 3pulls w/o Wideband and call it a day? With that much boost, if your AFR is off, or your timing curve has any sort of funkiness about it, you're gonna end up testing just how "built" your motor is.
I would turn down the boost until you can log some AFR's, and if you're going to stick with the Link piggy, an EGT gauge will be a good investment toward getting your timing curve optimized.
OP, did you do pulls at different boost settings, or start out low and work your way up to 20psi, or did you just pay the $50 for 3pulls w/o Wideband and call it a day? With that much boost, if your AFR is off, or your timing curve has any sort of funkiness about it, you're gonna end up testing just how "built" your motor is.
I would turn down the boost until you can log some AFR's, and if you're going to stick with the Link piggy, an EGT gauge will be a good investment toward getting your timing curve optimized.
#23
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Guys, he's using the Link Piggyback. From what I know, that thing doesn't have the ignition fidelity to do a whole lot from a timing perspective, so he's down a ton of power there... and we all know how awesome 5th injector setups work.
OP, did you do pulls at different boost settings, or start out low and work your way up to 20psi, or did you just pay the $50 for 3pulls w/o Wideband and call it a day? With that much boost, if your AFR is off, or your timing curve has any sort of funkiness about it, you're gonna end up testing just how "built" your motor is.
I would turn down the boost until you can log some AFR's, and if you're going to stick with the Link piggy, an EGT gauge will be a good investment toward getting your timing curve optimized.
OP, did you do pulls at different boost settings, or start out low and work your way up to 20psi, or did you just pay the $50 for 3pulls w/o Wideband and call it a day? With that much boost, if your AFR is off, or your timing curve has any sort of funkiness about it, you're gonna end up testing just how "built" your motor is.
I would turn down the boost until you can log some AFR's, and if you're going to stick with the Link piggy, an EGT gauge will be a good investment toward getting your timing curve optimized.
lol you mean the extra 4 injectors
#27
It's not good for now. FM recommends only 9psi MAX on the Link Piggy. It doesn't have the fidelity to provide fuel and timing correction for the amount of boost you're running. Are you enabling any sort of timing correction, or are you running the stock ECU's timing map?
DUDE, YOU NEED TO TURN THE BOOST DOWN!
Would you also mind telling me exactly what the fuel setup is? Extra injectors? How many? What size? Do you have any graphs of your fuel curve? Normally that stuff is printed out on the bottom of the dyno curve. What did your AFR's look like?
DUDE, YOU NEED TO TURN THE BOOST DOWN!
Would you also mind telling me exactly what the fuel setup is? Extra injectors? How many? What size? Do you have any graphs of your fuel curve? Normally that stuff is printed out on the bottom of the dyno curve. What did your AFR's look like?
#28
You haven't looked at ignition at all? What targets did you shoot for in your A/F? Even if you hadn't touched ignition and had a good A/F, then you should be making more than this. Are you using the stock fuel pump? What are the 4 extra injectors rated at? i know they have that goofy special intake manifold with the second injector inlets for the link piggy.
I agree you need to turn the boost down and figure this out. That ecu can't manage this level of power.
I agree you need to turn the boost down and figure this out. That ecu can't manage this level of power.
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Oh wait, thats me. But yeah, I agree. Something has to be major wrong to make that low of a number. Even a **** tune and **** compression would surely make more than 240 at 20psi.
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i retuned the ecu the try tuning it the wrong why the car feels alot better and the boost is down to 16psi i should have a new dyno sheet tomorrow. my air fuels are alot more stable and my timing is set better. im am saving for an Adaptronic Standalone, a forced performance sr20 20g, intercooler, and injectors. and what ever i my need
#39
You're not answering the questions people are asking you.
HOW MANY INJECTORS?
WHAT SIZE ARE THEY?
WHAT ARE YOU AFR'S?
WHAT EXACTLY ARE YOU ADJUSTING THE TIMING TO?
HOW DID YOU RETUNE THE ECU? WIDEBAND? BACK TO THE DYNO?
Man, your first post in this thread says "let me know what y'all think". Do you really want to know what I think, or am I wasting my time. You're still at nearly double the boost FM recommends for that ECU, and for some reason you refuse to tell us anything useful about what you're doing. This board will help you get the most out of your setup and make sure you don't blow your motor in the process, but you seem hell-bent on boosting the **** out of it in the face of overwhelming evidence that it's a bad ******* idea... what exactly is the goal of this thread?
HOW MANY INJECTORS?
WHAT SIZE ARE THEY?
WHAT ARE YOU AFR'S?
WHAT EXACTLY ARE YOU ADJUSTING THE TIMING TO?
HOW DID YOU RETUNE THE ECU? WIDEBAND? BACK TO THE DYNO?
Man, your first post in this thread says "let me know what y'all think". Do you really want to know what I think, or am I wasting my time. You're still at nearly double the boost FM recommends for that ECU, and for some reason you refuse to tell us anything useful about what you're doing. This board will help you get the most out of your setup and make sure you don't blow your motor in the process, but you seem hell-bent on boosting the **** out of it in the face of overwhelming evidence that it's a bad ******* idea... what exactly is the goal of this thread?