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100% accurate, as I have said before, heed the words of 18psi, "The Prophet."
I try to shift at 7000 on my optimistic tach, which is 6800 on my log. Also it was mentioned long in my build thread when I was porting my first wastegate. My bung hole is not gaped as wide as some folks on here, I am a tight ***. That is why I short shift and don't port my wastegate big enough.
We will in a couple of days if I don't get rained out. By the way aren't some of these high dollar EFR guys supposed to "come out" and show me that they are a little bit faster? I mean I would like to think I could go cast stainless/EFR some day, but it really would need to be faster
I don't question any but the last shift. I wonder if your time would improve if you just rode 4th to 7200. Hey, just an armchair shifter here. My shifts take 0.5 to 0.6 seconds. I need to practice more.
You might be right but I ain't beatin' my **** that hard.
I know, seems ridiculous from some people's perspective.
Maybe when I have the spares to run the slicks, which might be a tad taller, I will be able to leave it in 4th. I probably need more boost up top to not feel like it gives up past 6800 logged, 7000 indicated too. Like I said, more spares.
Asking the master, I think I learned how to use EAE from you IIRC, even though I am not currently running it. I am still a rookie at this.
Maybe a little more than 1/3 of a second? I am reading when TPSdot starts to drop from 0 to when it reaches the max here. I spend some time in 5th, and those knocks are not enough to set off my retard. This was 100 octane mix so that is why I can get away with that much timing. I am not sure my wife wants me buying $100 worth of gas again, we'll see what she says, unfortunately there is no way to pay cash.
Looks like I actually bounced off my rev limiter in 1st but I didn't feel/notice. Also looks like I am hitting the throttle before the clutch fully engages, maybe I am just spinning tires there? I think I will need to configure a custom field to log clutch input but I don't feel like doing it right now.
Hopefully some of this will help you shave a few tenths off your times
Congrats on the time man, that's moving out and will hurt a lot of feelings for sure. I love seeing other people that are dumb enough to take their miata to a drag strip.
100% accurate, as I have said before, heed the words of 18psi, "The Prophet."
I try to shift at 7000 on my optimistic tach, which is 6800 on my log. Also it was mentioned long in my build thread when I was porting my first wastegate. My bung hole is not gaped as wide as some folks on here, I am a tight ***. That is why I short shift and don't port my wastegate big enough.
We will in a couple of days if I don't get rained out. By the way aren't some of these high dollar EFR guys supposed to "come out" and show me that they are a little bit faster? I mean I would like to think I could go cast stainless/EFR some day, but it really would need to be faster
hahaha, but are you actually creeping uncontrollably past 6800?
cause if you're not, and can control fuel there too, I'd probably try raising the limiter to 7200 and at least ride out 4th, I bet your times will improve
Ok Vlad, I will do as you suggest, no problem with fueling up there. I currently have it set to go from normal at 7000 to 0° at 7100 or something like that. Maybe I will bump it up to 7200 & -20° at 7300, don't really like revving that much tho. I agree that I would be faster if I could stay in 4th.
These guys are the real masters and some of the credit for my car belongs to them.
I recommend an M&H 7.5/23-15 slick, which is designed for a 6" wheel. That tire will easily get you in the 1.7 60' mark. You will need a spare set of wheels because you will need to drill the valve stem hole to run tubes. You will never, ever be able to air them up without tubes.
Slicks take a little getting use to. The sway is a bit unsettling at the big end of the track, but you will never go back to running anything else at the dragstrip unless someone makes a drag radial that actually works in the sizes we need.
1) Actually, M&H told me that no tubes is OK with this tire.
2) Thoughts on the 6.0/26-15 as an alternative. Think it would fit with fender liners? Pros and cons.
I mean I plan to use ones miata2fast suggested eventually. I agree it would be shaving 3 tenths not to need 5th. I am not ready to run slicks yet. I do know a guy at the track who runs M&H without tubes.
I upped my rev limiter a bit and I have been experimenting with my EBC so I will try to shift a bit higher next time. Hopefully next Wednesday
Son, I'm not pushing you on that topic. But I am interested in your results.
My question about the 6"'wide x 26 tall was directed to those who may have already run slicks.
I have M/T 225/50/15's which measure 24 tall. I would like to try the 26" tall tires. Thinking about moving the rear subframe to increase tire clearance for this. They won't fit as it sits.
1) Actually, M&H told me that no tubes is OK with this tire.
2) Thoughts on the 6.0/26-15 as an alternative. Think it would fit with fender liners? Pros and cons.
Low profile slicks are pretty much impossible to air up with out tubes. Does the extra inch in height and half inch less width make it easier? I haven't tried it, but I know it was impossible to air up my 22x8 Mickey Thompsons without tubes.
I have been keeping an eye on the 26x6 tire as well. m2cupcar and I discussed that very tire at Miatapalooza last weekend. The general rule is install the tallest tire you can fit, and adjust the gear ratio so you are topped out at the end of the quarter mile for best results. A tire that tall will not work to it's full potential with the power level in the range of sonofthehill's car and stock or taller gear ratio. Gear ratio is a very important factor. Also, you will have to trim the quarter panel at the front side of the tire to make it fit.
I have considered moving the rear subframe back about 3/4" - 1" to prevent cutting the quarter panel. I've had discussions with others that it will negatively affect weight transfer. Personally I think it will work just fine because other longer cars with much more front weight bias work very well. Its not like the old days in the 60's where tires didn't work so good.
Edit: to my recollection, they weren't allowed to move the engine back or alter the firewall according to the rules, but they weren't restricted regarding altering the wheelbase. So they moved the rear axle forward for more weight on the rear wheels for more traction. They then did the bodywork to make the wheel opening look stock other than location. They were commonly referred to as "Altered" cars.
Last edited by sixshooter; 04-14-2017 at 08:33 AM.
With wrinkle-wall on the back, are you running your regular street radials in the front, without handling issues?
People do it all the time, but tire manufacturers recommend against it. I've done it myself. You do need to be careful when running drag slicks on a Miata. The car has a very slushy feel, and can get you in trouble if you aren't use to it. If you have a fast car, don't try to make a record run on your very first pass.
With wrinkle-wall on the back, are you running your regular street radials in the front, without handling issues?
It's not going to handle like it does with your normal matching tires up front, so be careful. Even with my all seasons aired down to around 20#'s it feels loose or sloppy in the rear, not meant for handling.
04-10-2017, 07:43 PM
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