Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. - Soviet Era Car, Space Age Turbo. EFR 6758

- Dynos and timesheets (https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-timesheets-21/)

- - Soviet Era Car, Space Age Turbo. EFR 6758 (https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-timesheets-21/soviet-era-car-space-age-turbo-efr-6758-a-68914/)

I thought timing latency had to do with your overall hardware, eg. sensors, igniters, coils! Doesn't matter now since you can't check it!
Where is your 36-1 mounted and how? I am looking to do something on my ATI pulley and seen some 36 tooth wheels I am thinking about mounting on the front (sorry for the thread-jacking!)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcrx7 (Post 939542)

It's a protege OEM trigger wheel and OEM trigger wheel sensor. afaik you should be able to bolt it on to the ATI damper.
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...1-wheel-64544/

I revved the engine a bit and the timing mark didn't "walk". So I assume its not going anywhere I don't need the latency settings.

Quote:

Nope, haven't checked and already took off timing plastic plate thingy. Timing latency is only an issue if you're using a CAS for primary tach signal. Stretchy timing belt and all.

are you sure? it's still a delay between the input and output and any mechanical delay inbetween.

Quote:

I revved the engine a bit and the timing mark didn't "walk". So I assume its not going anywhere I don't need the latency settings.

okay cool, just checking. I had a map that increased timing a bunch in higher rpms to prevent the torque from droooooping. Then I found I was dropping out spark angle up top like a bitch, when I finally tuned the latency I found I was pinging in higher rpms now as I was now adding in a bunch of extra timing instead of pretty much just keeping it static...if that makes sense to you.

Why does this matter Scott? Please tell, I am ignorant. Does it basically mean that your timing can be more advanced at higher RPM than you think?

Also, if anyone wants to see the timing map that was used for the 400hp pull, it is in Soviet's build thread. Add two degrees to it in boost. I asked for critical feedback, and nobody had jack shit to say. Maybe people will care now :b

This thread makes me want to build another turbo miata with a real turbo

sad face...

right? these turbos are seriously a game changer. but i also need to get in an NB as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 939556)

right? these turbos are seriously a game changer. but i also need to get in an NB as well.

Build a 1.8 and swap into NA shell. Then just wait for a super clean NB body to swap it into. Swap NB motor into NA shell. Sell NA.

Pay for material and I will build you a manifold and downpipe.

Dear Brain,

Get 01-05 SE
absurdramhorn
EFR
MS3

DOITFGT

kthanxbi

But make sure to have Fae do your timing map or your car won't make any power at all.

I will... just waiting to come upon some money. Problem is, in my 30 years of life, I've never once stumbled on it. So things aren't looking well for the future.

This is exactly why I just picked up a 99-00 motor for my NA. Baby steps, brain.

im focused more on getting a new DD...then maybe ill reevaluate the current miata. but im tired of spending money on car and wrenching. i do enjoy just driving it. Maybe 18psi will build an EFR setup and sell it instantly...

Quote:

Originally Posted by soviet (Post 939541)

Timing latency is only an issue if you're using a CAS for primary tach signal. Stretchy timing belt and all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcrx7 (Post 939542)

I thought timing latency had to do with your overall hardware, eg. sensors, igniters, coils!

Soviet is incorrect here, bcrx7 has the right idea.

Stretchy timing belts cause JITTER, which means that if you hold the RPM (and requested advance) steady, the timing mark will be jumping around erratically across maybe a +/- 5° range of where it's supposed to be. Jitter is mostly caused by mechanical slop.

Latency, by comparison, describes the electrical delay in the various parts of the system. Mostly, this is the delay between the time that the crank (or cam) sensor passes a tooth and the time that the CPU actually registers this change. It is caused primarily by the analog filtering circuitry (resistors and capacitors) which we use to filter out noise and prevent false triggers. These inherently add some delay to the circuit, which is fixed in length.

Thus, latency is mostly a factor of what sort of sensors you are using and how they are electrically decoded within the ECU. Latency is not affected by how the sensors are mechanically arranged or driven. A circuit which has a latency of 100us is ALWAYS going to have a latency of 100us, regardless of how loose or tight the timing belt it, how accurately machined the teeth on the crankwheel are, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 939572)

just for you boo
:giggle:

dyno vidya

uneventful :)

Was just browsing Facebook and saw this post from full-race

Quote:

"We had 2 customers recently do identical builds. 9:1 SR20DETs with 264 S2 HKS cams, Greddy plenums, GT3076R turbos One was on a log manifold and .63 a/r T3 (Green line), the other was on a twin scroll Full-Race kit and 0.82 a/r (Red line). Both cars at 1.25 bar The log car was actually running a tad leaner and with better coils... still a landslide.
Martin

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1350934837

Overlayed with my dyno...
http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo...arret-SR20.png

suck my dick

same dyno?
not that it would really matter all that much as long as they're both jets lolz

holy bawls. I am hoping just to get that much easily in my MK3 poopra