Had my setup dyno tuned on a dynapack this weekend... the car runs alot better.

Basic turbo parts are:
legit garrett gt2860RS @ 12psi
lovefab manifold
legit tial ms-v
Injector dynamics 725cc
AEM ems series 1
GM 3 bar map

The car is nice and quick, i would have liked closer to 250 but oh well.

 

I see no mention in your sig or the post about exhaust. Are you running a 3"? If not then that has to be robbing you a ton.

 

Its full 3" right off of the turbo, i have a 3" magnaflow high flow cat (center section is only like 4" long... so its barely a cat), and a 3" magnaflow.

Edit: The engine is healthy too... i did a compression test immediately prior to this dyno tune and i made 185-187 psi across.

 

What kind of brand is "legit"?

 

Does the dyno read low or something? 200tq at 12psi from a 2860RS is really, really low.

Also, find a dyno operator that cares about something other than peak numbers. I hate hackjob dynoqueen shops that start pulls at 3000rpm. I'd say your spool sucks but I'm sure it's partially due to operator error.

.64 or .86 housing?

 

I hate to agree with sav, but if you look WAY back at my 1.6 w/ 2554r dyno you'll see that I made like 200whp and almost 200wtq with stock exhaust at 15psi. I would have expected that you would make much more with a 2860r and a full 3".

 

It is 0.86

It could be the fact that I told him i wanted it to last a season and max HP wasnt really the goal... AND my boost control wasnt working, so we just ran a T in the WG line and crimped it to only make 12psi... so that could also affect spool, and explain the drop in power on the top end. (this is essentially tricking the WG into 10psi) I need to get boost control working because it was crazy overshooting, or doing nothing when i was on the dyno.

It could be the dyno... we ran 2 other cars that day (both 1jz's) and they seemed to come out low too. One had a 60-1 at 21psi with 264 cams and only made 480hp.

Either way, this car shreds... i was just hoping for more on what i have.


Oh, legit means i bought real stuff... not china immitations.

 

Is this SplitTime's old hotside setup?

I agree with the others, there should be more power. But, as you mentioned, you did have some problems with boost control. Was there anything else that you noticed that might have been cuasing any issues?

You mentioned you wanted the car to last for a season? What type of season?

 

Drifting. Its hard on engines, and I WILL lose motivation this year if i have to change engines half way through. I know its not what everyone does here... but im open minded to competetive automotive...things.

This is splitimes old hotside setup.


Im reading into boost control on the AEM website right now. I will **** with it this week, but its too bad that it didnt work well on the dyno.

Dont get me wrong, 225 is great... but obviously more would be better.

 

Well, Split made as much/more power than you using that hardware at only 10psi on a reliable, trackable tune. Same turbo too.

 

I also basically ran ambient air temperature and have a wacky intake manifold/bigger throttle body/COPs etc...

It was also a different dyno, dyno dynamics. So comparing stuff from my location to a different dyno in canada.... isn't going to work to well.

 

Lol I know what legit is, I was just busting your *****. And yeah the numbers are low, look at my sig, I made more power and tq on a td04-19t at 12psi.

 

After i get boost control setup and working, where do i go from here?

I will be able to configure the gain to make boost much sooner and a **** ton harder, and constant all the way to redline. I forgot to get screenshots of the boost on this run, but i am convinced boost was trailing off at high RPM.

I dont think on a stock engine more boost is the solution.

 

Power is power, if it makes 200WTQ at 25 psi and 150 degree IATs or 200WTQ at 2 psi and 150 degrees IAT, the shortblock is equally stressed.

IME its actually much safer to go with a tune that runs higher boost and a bit less aggressive on the timing than a tune trying to get every last HP out some lower boost number.

AFR? Max timing advance?

And its also a pretty good point that you cant really compare dynos too closely. EVen on identical dynos you have correction factors to take into account anyway.

Get a log of say a 3rd gear pull from 3K to 7K on level ground, on run in each direction. That can often give you a really good idea of where you are at

 

What kind of dyno is this? You should do the smaller housing on that 1.6.

 

That housing allows it to breathe up top. Its about the same size as a 60ish AR T3 turbine housing.

 

I agree, but I think that if we're looking at Dynojet-like numbers then he's probably not going to see much of a drop in output because he's so far below prime. I saw similar results on a totally different friend's car.

 

Honestly, his numbers are what I'd expect with that turbo on a 1.6L on a roller dyno... I see nothing wrong. also I thought you were running like 15psi and had a major boost spike during spool...

add a mere 10% to his numbers and you got 247/216 for a rough dynojet comparison.

 

The dyno was a dynapack Hustler.

I will ask the tuner if he still has the log of that run to see my boost levels.

The power feels good on the street, but as always... we all want more.

Being on a 5 speed still with the 3.636 rear is not optimal... a 6 speed would realy liven the car up.

When you were in my shop with the car on the dyno, you could REALLY hear the difference in how hard the car was working at 12psi where at 10 it sounded like normal.

 

Also, the tuner spent a wicked amount of time tuning my cruising cells....the miata drives great! Drove it yesterday ~300km and I am averaging LESS THAN 6L/100km!
Thats more than 40mpg.
This is combined driving with a few boosted fun runs

Who needs a smart car now?