my test was always turning on headlights and a/c at the same time I was dropping bass through my 500 watt amp. :)
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Originally Posted by 6speed
(Post 1138810)
Will this be applicable to the MS3 basic I bought from rev. last summer for my 2000 model?
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1138953)
It will require hardware modifications and will require 2 output ports.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402493058 |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1138078)
There is a hysteretic loop, with a couple of complications on top. Very high speed. minimum "stay in state" is 50uS.
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How are you wiring the alternator so it doesn't spike 14volts?
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Confusing question is confusing.
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The alternator is currently charging 18v. It's not good at all. I just installed the ms3.
It should be 1 wire will have a 12V feed and the other will be control (ms) but which one is which? |
Originally Posted by BlackBandit
(Post 1140511)
The alternator is currently charging 18v. It's not good at all. I just installed the ms3.
It should be 1 wire will have a 12V feed and the other will be control (ms) but which one is which? I'd start by wiring it correctly, then tuning it correctly. |
We are working on the wiring before we tune atm. The voltage is what's stopping us.
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Well if you're using MS to control your voltage, and you haven't tuned it, how do you expect it to get correct in the first place? Are you using the 1.3.2 firmware with the "Miata" control method?
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Everything is running properly. Fans, ac, idle. It's the voltage that were receiving out of the alternator is what's scary.
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Originally Posted by BlackBandit
(Post 1140607)
It's the voltage that were receiving out of the alternator is what's scary.
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Originally Posted by Schuyler
(Post 1138990)
For clarity sake, on a 99-00 would that be ECU pin 1T for the field line, and 1O to read the voltage?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402493058 1O field out - spare PWM output. 1Q charge indicator - spare medium/high output (like inj e-f-g-h) I'm also assuming that 1Q is optional if you don't want a low voltage indicator. 1T is a input/ground from the alt. to the OEM ECU to let it know the alternator isn't functioning (something to that matter), it is unused. |
Originally Posted by Schuyler
(Post 1138990)
For clarity sake, on a 99-00 would that be ECU pin 1T for the field line, and 1O to read the voltage?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402493058 Alternator field is 1O Alt sense is 1T 01/05: field is D4 sense is E27 Where D is the 24 pin plug and E is the 31 pin plug |
I appreciate it. Hoping this will help.
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So I will be simply hooking the alternator field wire from 1O to the nitrous 1 pwm, using the exact settings posted in Ben's first post aside from changing miata to the renamed "high speed" setting, and changing the output to nitrous 1. Correct me if I'm wrong, otherwise I'll post the result. lol.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1140621)
The Mazda diagram is kind of confusing. 99/00:
Alternator field is 1O Alt sense is 1T are you even using 1T, you'd hook it up like I suggested in teh post before yours, correct? |
Moderators:
Should we move this over to the Megasquirt subforum? |
Originally Posted by Schuyler
(Post 1140678)
So I will be simply hooking the alternator field wire from 1O to the nitrous 1 pwm, using the exact settings posted in Ben's first post aside from changing miata to the renamed "high speed" setting, and changing the output to nitrous 1. Correct me if I'm wrong, otherwise I'll post the result. lol.
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Originally Posted by WestfieldMX5
(Post 1141921)
PWM outputs supply ground, so me thinks you need to add a 12V pullup.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1140691)
are you even using 1T, you'd hook it up like I suggested in teh post before yours, correct?
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