I’m back! Need info on timing retard options for low boost. Not bipes
#1
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I’m back! Need info on timing retard options for low boost. Not bipes
As stated, I’m back with a different car, going turbo with it. I’m waiting to receive a greddy 4.5/5 psi kit for my ‘90 Miata. I don’t plan to go higher in boost no time soon. I need something to retard my timing so I don’t have to run 6° off boost. I can’t find a used bipes sand I’ve read about some type of MSD designed for Miata’s, but can’t figure of which it is. Need help there. Thanks in advance.
#3
There was an MSD boost timing master but twenty years ago, when aftermarket ECUs were not PNP nor was it easy to find a tuner, I chose the Jacob's Electronics Boost Master timing retard unit. I'm not sure if they're still available, I installed it in the glove box of my 1995 Escort GT (1.8 BP). It worked ok with too much retard all over the place which was necessary to keep it safe under full boost. Real timing maps are not that linear.
I spent roughly $1500 to turbocharge it and extra fuel was injected with larger RX-7 injectors (460cc?) using an Apex'i S-AFC (maybe AFC2?) to lean them back out so the OEM ecu idled and drove properly out of boost. It still suffered lean tip in where the OBD2 ECU tried to lean out the added fuel. I never installed an O2 clamp device to keep the ecu from seeing overly rich conditions under boost. Also, the S-AFC connected to throttle input to add extra fuel SUCKED. I installed a MAP sensor so fuel followed boost. It was crude but that engine lasted most likely because I took the advice of another turbocharged Escort GT owner and installed an EGT probe in the manifold to make sure it was running rich enough so it didn't melt stuff.
These days you do NOT want these piggybacks unless you're going to hide them and wire them in parallel to pass emissions testing. You lose a ton of power and driveability with piggybacks. Get a PNP ecu and learn to tune it or buy one that somebody local knows how to tune.
I spent roughly $1500 to turbocharge it and extra fuel was injected with larger RX-7 injectors (460cc?) using an Apex'i S-AFC (maybe AFC2?) to lean them back out so the OEM ecu idled and drove properly out of boost. It still suffered lean tip in where the OBD2 ECU tried to lean out the added fuel. I never installed an O2 clamp device to keep the ecu from seeing overly rich conditions under boost. Also, the S-AFC connected to throttle input to add extra fuel SUCKED. I installed a MAP sensor so fuel followed boost. It was crude but that engine lasted most likely because I took the advice of another turbocharged Escort GT owner and installed an EGT probe in the manifold to make sure it was running rich enough so it didn't melt stuff.
These days you do NOT want these piggybacks unless you're going to hide them and wire them in parallel to pass emissions testing. You lose a ton of power and driveability with piggybacks. Get a PNP ecu and learn to tune it or buy one that somebody local knows how to tune.
Last edited by Jesse99James; 01-06-2022 at 07:01 AM.
#4
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One last try, before I just accept that a MS is the only option. What about the FM Voodoo Box? I see one on eBay. Will that do the trick? My last Miata had the MSPNP2 and it worked well, but it was already setup when I got it, just needed fine tuning.
I can’t imagine having to get that and start from scratch, although it would be fun to learn it from start to finish. Plus I’ve spent a few coins on wheels, roll bar, and turbo kit so far. My car is in the process of being painted now. I’m helping with that. Let me know and thanks!
I can’t imagine having to get that and start from scratch, although it would be fun to learn it from start to finish. Plus I’ve spent a few coins on wheels, roll bar, and turbo kit so far. My car is in the process of being painted now. I’m helping with that. Let me know and thanks!
#6
Pretty much any aftermarket ecu in parallel configured to control ignition only would fit your requirements and allow fully programmable ignition. It would also handle boost control, engine safeties, datalogging, etc.
Look at the non-pnp fully assembled Speeduino ecu's. Value for money is very good.
Look at the non-pnp fully assembled Speeduino ecu's. Value for money is very good.
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so it appears the voodoo doesn’t do what I thought which allows me to stay around 10° timing before boost. Hmmm.I can get one for $150 too.
Last edited by mx5newbie; 12-27-2021 at 09:03 PM.
#9
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It appears I’m about to purchase a bipes with the monitor and MSD box. I got the car running and I’m pushing between 5-6 psi. Not sure how accurate the boost gauge is. One I had left over from my Procharged ‘03 Marauder. The gauge sits at approx. 1- 1.5 psi with the car off.
with this being said, what will be the best settings for it? I’m running 93 octane and currently have the timing set at 6°.
id like to run 14° since I’m using 92-93 octane at all times. Also, I just installed a walbro 190 lph pump that I purchased for my old foxbody that I never used. Works great other than I can hear it running slightly. Thanks guys.
with this being said, what will be the best settings for it? I’m running 93 octane and currently have the timing set at 6°.
id like to run 14° since I’m using 92-93 octane at all times. Also, I just installed a walbro 190 lph pump that I purchased for my old foxbody that I never used. Works great other than I can hear it running slightly. Thanks guys.
#11
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come on man. I’ve come from the MS2PNP on my last turbo Miata pushing 15 psi. This car will not be used for anymore than some autocross events and will be passed down to daughter in a few years. Not trying to go full race. I just want the low end power back before boost kicks in. Why can’t I use the old technology as long as it works?
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the turbo kit became available at a descent price so I purchased it. Just keeping it low budget for that reason. Plug and play. Then enjoy.
#14
I wasn't criticizing you. I was simply saying, without any anger, that if you're gonna do for sure silly stuff then just do it and enjoy the outcome. You don't need us to enable your decision or make you feel better about it, just do it lol.
You don't need an MS to make power. You need it to properly run everything AND make power. I don't understand why people think that a standalone is only needed to make big power, it's not.
You can run 4* static timing, some janky ebay rrfpr, big injectors, and e85 on the stock ecu and probably make 300whp. it would run like total garbage outside wot, but I bet you can finagle it to actually make the power.
I've seen people run bandaids and get decent results, or at least be happy with what they did. I usually don't understand it, because you've got like 3-4 different systems all fighting each other, and you're manipulating everything under the sun for it all to work together.
It seems more complicated than a pnp ecu solution. But do what makes you happy even if it's the wrong thing
You don't need an MS to make power. You need it to properly run everything AND make power. I don't understand why people think that a standalone is only needed to make big power, it's not.
You can run 4* static timing, some janky ebay rrfpr, big injectors, and e85 on the stock ecu and probably make 300whp. it would run like total garbage outside wot, but I bet you can finagle it to actually make the power.
I've seen people run bandaids and get decent results, or at least be happy with what they did. I usually don't understand it, because you've got like 3-4 different systems all fighting each other, and you're manipulating everything under the sun for it all to work together.
It seems more complicated than a pnp ecu solution. But do what makes you happy even if it's the wrong thing
#16
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I wasn't criticizing you. I was simply saying, without any anger, that if you're gonna do for sure silly stuff then just do it and enjoy the outcome. You don't need us to enable your decision or make you feel better about it, just do it lol.
You don't need an MS to make power. You need it to properly run everything AND make power. I don't understand why people think that a standalone is only needed to make big power, it's not.
You can run 4* static timing, some janky ebay rrfpr, big injectors, and e85 on the stock ecu and probably make 300whp. it would run like total garbage outside wot, but I bet you can finagle it to actually make the power.
I've seen people run bandaids and get decent results, or at least be happy with what they did. I usually don't understand it, because you've got like 3-4 different systems all fighting each other, and you're manipulating everything under the sun for it all to work together.
It seems more complicated than a pnp ecu solution. But do what makes you happy even if it's the wrong thing
You don't need an MS to make power. You need it to properly run everything AND make power. I don't understand why people think that a standalone is only needed to make big power, it's not.
You can run 4* static timing, some janky ebay rrfpr, big injectors, and e85 on the stock ecu and probably make 300whp. it would run like total garbage outside wot, but I bet you can finagle it to actually make the power.
I've seen people run bandaids and get decent results, or at least be happy with what they did. I usually don't understand it, because you've got like 3-4 different systems all fighting each other, and you're manipulating everything under the sun for it all to work together.
It seems more complicated than a pnp ecu solution. But do what makes you happy even if it's the wrong thing