ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

My sensor (for my LC-1) crapped out on me again so I bought a new one today. FYI I found a Bosch sensor that fits the LC-1 at Auto Zone. Same exact sensor, harness, and cable. It is for a 2003 VW Beetle, 1.8L turbo, the 'upstream' sensor. It cost about $55 without tax, which is not much more than amazon, and not bad for get-it-now convenience.

I am going to try out a sensor placement trick that I read about elsewhere. The sensor is spaced out of the flow using 18mm anti-fouling spark plug adapters. The idea is that it will help keep the sensor a bit cooler, but mostly get it out of direct flow. So while I am initially tuning and running pig rich, it is less likely to get fouled by the sooty flow coming down the tail pipe. It will dampen the sensor responsiveness, but for initial tuning no big deal IMO. I think this will help with sensor longevity.

I have crapped out new sensors in only a couple of months while getting the engine tuned. I start with the mix being too rich, then moving towards ideal. Safer than tuning from too lean.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

I was on track today and looked at the DB gauge to find it pegged at 15.1. Mildly alarming until I realized it wasn't moving and I still had good-ish power. But I kind of figured I may have overheated the sensor given that it's in the stock sensor location in the mani (naturally aspirated for a few more weeks) with no real heat sink. Tracked it like that for 2 years and never seen that before. What's interesting is that when I got into the paddock the gauge was still pegged on 15.1 but tunerstudio saw it pegged at 11.4. I guess the two analog outs peg at different values? Ennyhoooo, after letting the car cool down for a few minutes it resumed outputting normal numbers and I had no issues the rest of the day. IDK if the sensor is on its last legs or what, guess we'll find out.

PhantomRoadster

add me too.

This **** is getting annoying.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

Group RMA?

na8psi

iTrader: (1)

sick of it....its not like these things are cheap from the get go.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

I would have added my name to that list up until I stripped my car (for a whole other reason).
I was sick and tired of code 8 (overheating), and had replaced the sensor and added a proper heatsink, hoping the problem would be cured, only to see the dreaded code 8, and other random crap on the gauge.

I am happy to report that all that is now in the past.
All I had to do was to move the actual controller (the black box thingie on the cable for you ---- techies) from under the car to the inside, right underneath the cavity behind the cigarette lighter. AND, I made damn sure the transmission tunnel is well insulated.
The wire runs through the gear shifter opening.
While I was at it, I ran all the grounds to the engine block as instructed, using a 3mm wire. Resistance is 0.00 ohms relative to the other ECU grounds, BTW.
I do not get any crap from the LC_1, no matter how far I drive, or how hot the day is anymore.

I am fairly convinced the controller (you know, the black box) is rather sensitive to heat, and heatsoaking from the exhaust has dire consequences which we attribute to the sensor itself.

I say move the damn thing to a cool(er) spot. It has solved my problems.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Good to know. As I am about to install mine, I'm glad you posted.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

So I bought the new AEM Inline UEGO on Amazon. Paid for next day so I could get it on a Sat, got it next day. 5 min install, literally. Screw in sensor (crx, super easy access), run wire harness through firewall. Connect 3 wires to MS. Turn on car and get instant afr readings.

LC1 can lick my grundle!

y8s

iTrader: (8)

good thing the LC1 puts the sensitive electronics on the end of the O2 sensor connector so you can't get it inside easily.

WESamiss

I never had a problem with mine. But I have not had one for over a year now. I was planning on getting one soon, should I not now?

ILoveOffRamps

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone have any issues seeing the DB Gauge? I have one in red and can't see **** during the daylight. It reflects everything behind me and isn't bright enough to overcome any sunlight. I have to keep putting my hand over it to read it.

budget racer

iTrader: (1)

*update: since getting my "defective" unit replace (free of charge), i have not had a single issue. i'm keeping my fingers crossed.

offramps- i have the red DB gauge and can assure you that i don't have any problems reading the gauge. mine is in a pillar gauge pod.....no reflection issues. perhaps yours is mounted elsewhere?

ILoveOffRamps

iTrader: (2)

Haven't tried it on the pillar, but just about everywhere else.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

I think I "killed" my sensor yesterday. Tuning runs was fine the day before without overheating issues (sensible values and no codes).
But yesterday while going for a training run (planned to do som on-track tuning for perfection), I got flashing DB-Gauge shoving 7.4 (0V I guess) followed by a steady 15.0 (I have it se to "float" the output on issues) and 8 flashes (overheat/sensor going bad). I did not have time to connect the Innovate software to see if there was a meaningful message, might do before I replace the sensor (just to check).
I know this was not overheating since it's been running for about 5 minutes barley over idle.

A new sensor is on it's way and it might live longer since it will be spared the rough tuning in the beginning.
Any cleaning tips for a "fouled" Bosch sensor (if thats part of the problem)?

PhantomRoadster

This happens to me all the time. It usually happens if the cars stalls after turning the car on due to my shitty cranking tune. I usually turn the car off and on again or recalibrate if that doesn't work.