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Old 05-16-2011, 06:16 AM   #21
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It's probably better to continue in this thread than starting a new.

I had problems with my LC1 last year (when i added a DIYPNP etc) that it overheated the sensor (I made the mistake to "upgrade" firmware after the initial tuning, back-graded afterwards). The symptom was that the calibration drifted quite rapidly after the free-air calibration. It started with showing 14-15 AFR at idle and after a couple of sweeps through the revs it started to shoe 18-19 (and TS stopped autotuning thank goodness).
After some more running the AFR got stuck at 22 unless I stomped the pedal to make all the enrichment make it go rich, and then i saw 10-12 flickering past but it still was pinned at 22.
Since I get distracted/bored easily I staid satisfied with the tune I had and just raced the car for the rest of the 2010 season (knowing that I was a bit rich and low on power).

This spring I installed a new sensor to see if that was the problem (the first sensor had seen maybe 8 hours of duty), but it just took two runs to make it behave exactly the same.

The thing I'm wondering, could I have placed the controller in a stupid place next to the lighter socket (in contact with the trans tunnel on the right side). It get pretty warm and it vibrates a lot.
I have cable lengths so I could place it almost anywhere in the passenger area, and isolating it from vibration would be easy.

Or would it be better to go for a MTX-L? Is that controller more "stable" (or is it just the same in another package)?

I need to get this sorted before I start to play with the VVTengine I'm building. Tuning with a flawed WB-system is just stupid.

The power for the LC-1 comes from the lighter socket (no power while cranking, I've seen the problem with low power). Grounded at the same ground point as the ECU (next to TB), with it's own cable.
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:32 AM   #22
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The MXT-L has different circuits than the LC-1. I have installed 2 MTX-Ls so far and I'm happy with the results. I am recommending that current owners of the LC-1 w/DB gauge upgrade to the MTX-L.
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
The MXT-L has different circuits than the LC-1. I have installed 2 MTX-Ls so far and I'm happy with the results. I am recommending that current owners of the LC-1 w/DB gauge upgrade to the MTX-L.
Damn, I was guessing that was the answer...
Oh well, one more thing to order when I order the VVTuner...
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:05 AM   #24
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Does MXT-L have digital output like LC-1 so I can connect that to my Adaptronic?
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:56 AM   #25
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If you have an adaptronic, go for TechEdge. They are really stable and you can use the digital output.
I had trouble with LC1's from day one. I never had any problems with the TE 2J series. And I have seen a lot.
Just do not buy a LC-1. They are cheap for a reason.
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:14 AM   #26
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tell me about it. My LC-1 freezes almost every week on long WOT runs even thought I have new sensor. And this has been going on for two years now....
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:43 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
The MXT-L has different circuits than the LC-1. I have installed 2 MTX-Ls so far and I'm happy with the results. I am recommending that current owners of the LC-1 w/DB gauge upgrade to the MTX-L.
Replaced the LC-1 with a MTX-L on Saturday and the installation and setup is cleaner and easier (unless you have no space for thick cables behind the dial).
No separate signal ground needed, just decent 12V (off while cranking), a ground "without" offset to the ECU and a signal wire.

I only lack a Innovate default option in TunerStudio. I'm not that confident that the setting for a linear wideband 0-5V = 7.35-22.39 AFR did stick, but the MTX-L and TunerStudio seem to agree (maybe a 0.1 AFR offset) over 12-17 AFR so it's probably OK. The supposed added electric resolution by running 0-5V 10-20 AFR (then why not 11-17 AFR?) is lost when you fail to install the LM-programmer (since the VirtualBox with my XP fail to boot since I upgraded my Ubuntu...).

It feels much better to have the digital reading visible instead of a volt meter that can be off due to my whacky wiring.
Maybe I should place my LC-1 post-cat and there it would probably work without issues, just to spite me...
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:10 AM   #28
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Post-cat installation of the O2 sensor is wrong, as any excess oxygen is used to convert the harmful emissions, ie carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide, hydrocarbons to carbon dioxide and water. Also, the breakdown of nitrogen oxides to oxygen and nitrogen will also affect the oxygen %. So the lamda reading after the cat will be wrong.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:09 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Post-cat installation of the O2 sensor is wrong, as any excess oxygen is used to convert the harmful emissions, ie carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide, hydrocarbons to carbon dioxide and water. Also, the breakdown of nitrogen oxides to oxygen and nitrogen will also affect the oxygen %. So the lambda reading after the cat will be wrong.
For any type of feedback to the ECU, very wrong!

For making "use" of a working sensor/dial and maybe tuning for emissions it might not be worthless. The lambda reading will be true for the gas it's measuring . Having values both pre and post cat might not hurt if you are interested in emissions (at least you will notice when the cat is gone bad).

But I have too many other things should have done before adding extras so the LC-1 will probably be forgotten.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
Also make sure you hook it up to a source that will not be disrupted during cranking. I connected mine to the radio ACC which shuts off during cranking. BAD MISTAKE.

Can you explain, please?
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgmorr View Post
Can you explain, please?
Dude wat.

I'm not sure why he thinks its bad, but mine has been hooked up to radio power and I've never had issues related to that.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:37 PM   #32
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I have seen conflicting reports of whether to leave it powered or not during cranking, and right now I'm forgetting what Innovate's instructions say. I think the gist of it is that some people's controllers have issues with the voltage drop that occurs during cranking. However, mine is connected to the same +12V that feeds the ECU, so it stays on during cranking, and has no problems.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:43 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
Dude wat.

I'm not sure why he thinks its bad, but mine has been hooked up to radio power and I've never had issues related to that.
Because i cant tune my cranking fuel for **** and guessing if it needs more or less fuel at -20C sucks
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:49 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by mazpr View Post
wtf...
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:36 PM   #35
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Gonna revive this thread so that I do not need to contaminate the forum with another LC-1 thread. According to the instructions on Innovate's site there are two analog outputs. One of them is a default narrowband and the other is a wideband.

Is it possible to convert the narrowband output wire to output a wideband signal?

I am not using the LC-1 gauge and I need to hook up both the MS2 and the electronic gauge I have to the LC-1 and I assume sharing the same output wire would be a bad idea.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:02 PM   #36
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Hook it up using the digital connection?
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
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Is it possible to convert the narrowband output wire to output a wideband signal?
Yes, you can program the two outputs however you like. You have to connect it to your PC and use LM Programmer.
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