Look over my tune?
#1
Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: York, Pennsylvania
Posts: 47
Total Cats: 2
Look over my tune?
I haven't really ever had an actual tuner (or someone with a lot of tuning knowledge) look over my tune so I figured I would finally throw it up here for you guys to take a look at
My car is a 1994 1.8 miata with an eBay 2871 48 comp, 550cc flow force injectors, a begi cast manifold and custom made downpipe mated to the stock exhaust after the cat (stock muffler keeps it quiet which is nice but I'm sure is bad for flow).
I attached my afr table, spark map, and ve table if you don't feel like opening the actual tune and log. The log is a first thru third pull. The car has never been on a dyno so I have no idea what kind of numbers it would make, I'm sure nothing that impressive.
I'm pretty new to all this but I am looking forward to learning a lot!
Thanks!
My car is a 1994 1.8 miata with an eBay 2871 48 comp, 550cc flow force injectors, a begi cast manifold and custom made downpipe mated to the stock exhaust after the cat (stock muffler keeps it quiet which is nice but I'm sure is bad for flow).
I attached my afr table, spark map, and ve table if you don't feel like opening the actual tune and log. The log is a first thru third pull. The car has never been on a dyno so I have no idea what kind of numbers it would make, I'm sure nothing that impressive.
I'm pretty new to all this but I am looking forward to learning a lot!
Thanks!
#2
Cpt. Slow
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,209
Total Cats: 1,139
I'd select your 88-120kpa row in the AFR table and interpolate vertically. That 100kpa row is too lean for me as you're transitioning into boost. Even N/A cars run 12.5-13.5 at WOT (100kpa). Not that you'll ever really be in that row.
Your ignition table needs a lot of smoothing and less timing in boost as well. I'd start by taking 6 degrees out of your 200kpa row, and interpolating all the way down to 116. You might even remove more to be safe until you hit a dyno. I'd get rid of that random 30 and 22 cell in the 116 row first, just for looks. You're also wasting resolution by having an 8000 and 9000rpm column, since you're never there. If you're only spinning to 7000 usually with a 7250 revlimit, you could make your last column 7200, maybe add a little fuel and take away 2 degrees, so it's always safer as you approach redline. Then move everything over and use your 9000rpm column somewhere that needs some more resolution. You're on a MS2 as far as I can tell, so try using it in the idle region to help stabilize fuel and rpm there.
Your ignition table needs a lot of smoothing and less timing in boost as well. I'd start by taking 6 degrees out of your 200kpa row, and interpolating all the way down to 116. You might even remove more to be safe until you hit a dyno. I'd get rid of that random 30 and 22 cell in the 116 row first, just for looks. You're also wasting resolution by having an 8000 and 9000rpm column, since you're never there. If you're only spinning to 7000 usually with a 7250 revlimit, you could make your last column 7200, maybe add a little fuel and take away 2 degrees, so it's always safer as you approach redline. Then move everything over and use your 9000rpm column somewhere that needs some more resolution. You're on a MS2 as far as I can tell, so try using it in the idle region to help stabilize fuel and rpm there.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: York, Pennsylvania
Posts: 47
Total Cats: 2
Yes I am, it has been a pretty good system so far. I knew that the knowledge around the platform wasn't as great as the MS but I figured I would give it a try.
Sorry if my choice is not mturbo spec
Thanks for the feedback tho Curly! I adjusted the scaling so they are all the same and stop at 7200 on all tables, took some timing away in boost, and adjusted the afr's leading into boost. Haven't had a chance to test it out on the car yet but I will be able to later today. I increased the resolution under 1000 rpms when getting rid of the 8000 and 9000rpm columns as well.
Is it okay to be in the low 12's in lower boost? Or do is that too lean?
Removed timing up top and closer to redline as you suggested for safety:
The VE table looks a bit funky but I'm guessing a drive with auto tune will help smooth it out:
Sorry if my choice is not mturbo spec
I'd select your 88-120kpa row in the AFR table and interpolate vertically. That 100kpa row is too lean for me as you're transitioning into boost. Even N/A cars run 12.5-13.5 at WOT (100kpa). Not that you'll ever really be in that row.
Your ignition table needs a lot of smoothing and less timing in boost as well. I'd start by taking 6 degrees out of your 200kpa row, and interpolating all the way down to 116. You might even remove more to be safe until you hit a dyno. I'd get rid of that random 30 and 22 cell in the 116 row first, just for looks. You're also wasting resolution by having an 8000 and 9000rpm column, since you're never there. If you're only spinning to 7000 usually with a 7250 revlimit, you could make your last column 7200, maybe add a little fuel and take away 2 degrees, so it's always safer as you approach redline. Then move everything over and use your 9000rpm column somewhere that needs some more resolution. You're on a MS2 as far as I can tell, so try using it in the idle region to help stabilize fuel and rpm there.
Your ignition table needs a lot of smoothing and less timing in boost as well. I'd start by taking 6 degrees out of your 200kpa row, and interpolating all the way down to 116. You might even remove more to be safe until you hit a dyno. I'd get rid of that random 30 and 22 cell in the 116 row first, just for looks. You're also wasting resolution by having an 8000 and 9000rpm column, since you're never there. If you're only spinning to 7000 usually with a 7250 revlimit, you could make your last column 7200, maybe add a little fuel and take away 2 degrees, so it's always safer as you approach redline. Then move everything over and use your 9000rpm column somewhere that needs some more resolution. You're on a MS2 as far as I can tell, so try using it in the idle region to help stabilize fuel and rpm there.
Is it okay to be in the low 12's in lower boost? Or do is that too lean?
Removed timing up top and closer to redline as you suggested for safety:
The VE table looks a bit funky but I'm guessing a drive with auto tune will help smooth it out:
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: York, Pennsylvania
Posts: 47
Total Cats: 2
Possibly something to do with a cold ECU that's been sitting all night?
Thanks!
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