The sensor you are using may be a VR and Not a hall effect sensor, I was working with Joe in this thread of what needs to be done to use a VR sensor
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/looking-ms1-settings-36-1-trigger-65675/

Or as it seems you can use an OE NB sensor and use the same hall effect circuit already built for the CAS.

 

There is indeed a danger of damaging the MS if the output of the VR sensor is connected to an input pin other than the one configured to accept a VR sensor. These sensors are capable of generating voltages higher than Vcc, and the VR input circuit is configured so as to isolate this voltage from the CPU and other ICs within the MS.

If you're asking whether the sensor itself was damaged by the application of +5v? Probably not. I've never measured the resistance of a VR sensor's coil, but I assume it's high enough to prevent a significant amount of current from flowing through it, especially if the other side was not grounded.

 

Joe, I ment that with cranking speeds I presumed no harm to Megasquirt.
No power was turned on to the sensor. I wired black and white wires from DIY autotune harness into respectively green and red ones in the sensor. The shielding ground was connected to signal ground, but I think it might be better to ground it to engine block instead, at least in theory.

Car starts and idles with sequential ignition and injection. The gap between sensor and wheel needs to be checked when changing the wheel, the od appears to be the same, but in my case there were slight contact between wheel and the sensor at some teeth. Also the sensor is pretty sensitive, it will not see the targets if there is nmore than 2 mm gap.
So for ~$20 wheel you can get the resolution you want with factory parts and no bracket or wheel design and fabrication needed. I presume it will work as long term solution as well as the stock one. My sensor is quite probably original from -96.

hrk

 

Cool.
Apparently Flyin miata is developing a 30-2 wheel as well, so now there will be several options for increased timing resolution.

 

I think I now posses the knowledge to do this without guidance.

 

Very nice find! Sherlock Holmes would be proud. Added to the to do list.

 

So, is anyone now running successfully? What was the angle offset compared to the nb wheel/trigger? I'd like to run the same on my MSM w/Hydra. The 4 tooth setup makes me feel like I'm flying an F22 with wooden chariot wheels as landing gear.

 

+1 on the spoon feeding. I have a 00 with a Rev built MS2. Can someone post a step by step of the settings that need to be changed to make this work?

 

I am also looking for someone to post the settings in ts with the new wheel

 

Another nice wheel option -> New FM 36-2 trigger wheel for Hydra ECUs - MX-5 Miata Forum

 

Thanks to from Soviet and Reverant about the cam sensor mods required to do this on an NB. To use this trigger wheel you need to grind off the dual sensor nubs by the "E" on the cam pulley. You also have to make sure that the cam pulley sensor the cam sensor is NOT over (or very near!) the single cam tooth on the cam wheel when the crank sensor is over the missing tooth on the 36-1 wheel. The crank trigger wheel can only be installed one way but the cam pulley can be positioned in three different positions on the cam.



Has anyone with an NB tried this mod and repositioned the cam pulley? If so, how was the cam pulley placed and what settings in MS are required?

 

So does that mean the setting in the picture would be correct (with the two nubs ground off)?
Did Revrant say anything about changing any of the settings?

 

The pic just shows the cam pulleys at TDC. I don't know the MS settings needed nor how to reposition the intake cam pulley.

 

Wiggy. I guess it's all in the decoding, then? Cause, anything like that would make VVT more annoying. I guess not crazy, but grinding the cam feels.... permanent.

Think I'll be playing with this one later, in a couple months, when I gotta figure out how to support both VVT and 36-1.

 

I ordered this part.
Somehow I cannot get it to fit.
The wheel interferes with the plastic TDC reference point. That can be trimmed though.
Also the dished out part is not deep enough for my pulley. There is a gap between the wheel and the balancer. Quite a big gap. The wheel runs into the rubber part of the balancer, but even with that trimmed out, here is not enough room to get it to fit. How on earth did you get that wheel on the stock balancer ?

I think you have to use the later style balancer to get it right. To make it perfect, is there a way to upgrade the whole belt assembly to serpentine on the big nose B6 engine ? What parts are involved ? It would be nice to swap the alternator pulley, the waterpump pulley and the cranckshaft pulley to serpentine + ability to fit the triggerwheel. This would be the ultimate upgrade.

 

I have measured this wheel and the OE NB wheel, here are the angles:

Crank sensor is mounted at 110 degrees.

OE crank trigger plate:

First tooth is at 190 degrees on plate, so triggered 80 degrees BTDC
Second tooth is at 120 degrees on plate, so triggered 10 degrees BTDC

Per 180 degree period:
80,10

Protege 36-1 trigger plate:

First tooth is at 190 degrees on plate, so triggered 80 degrees BTDC
Second tooth is at 180 degrees on plate, so triggered 70 degrees BTDC
...

Per 180 degree period:
80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,0,170,160,150,140,130,120, 110,100,90 (90 missing on 2nd period for reset)

The OE wheel has teeth that are 1 degree wide, and on the Protege wheel they are 3 degrees wide. With my ECU I trigger on the trailing edge of the tooth, so it will be 2 degrees out unless adjusted.

 

Would fitting one of these allow one to just use a single crank angle input with wasted spark without the cam position input. Making ms easier to set up and also preventing timing from being effected by cam belt stretch etc. Would this bolt onto a 1.8 bp engine?

 

Timing is not affected by cam belt stretch, as the cam sensor (as used on the 99-005) is only there to tell the ECU the current cylinder phasing, and not the crank angle.

Without a cam sensor, you can't run sequential injection or ignition.

 

Is there any real world benefit to running sequential injection and ignition. I'm halfway through building my MS2 and its my first foray into electronics so any thing that makes it simpler is a good thing. Also I have a standard stim not jim stim

 

Sequential injection will make the car idle better, have lower emissions and snappier throttle response at low revs.