thought we needed another wideband thread
 

Because everything I've read indicates that every affordable wideband is the best ever and the biggest POS. Amazing

LC-1: great if you wire it properly and downgrade the firmware. A complete POS and requires calibration
MTX-L: 1000000000x better than LC1...why? A POS and requires calibration
UEGO: Just works and no calibration. But it's slow and inaccurate. Also a POS.
ZT-2: slow and inaccurate but super awesome. Expensive.
ZT-3: new, nobody uses it. maybe better than ZT-2.


I really like the idea of an LC-1 w/ DB gauge and then upgrade to a VEI dual display down the line to combine boost and AFR into one. But apparently the LC-1 is junk and people are upgrading to MTX-L. I'd like to consolidate gauges but not if it means subpar sensors.

Still on the stock ECU now but will be upgrading to a Reverant built MS2 soon. Figured I'd get this installed now and have one less thing to deal with when the MS shows up. That and I can see just how badly Mazda tuned the MSM.

So why shouldn't I get the LC-1?

Mtx-l = lc-1 for the people that are convinced the UEGO is actually better.

Day One: Wire up LC-1.

Drive Hard
Tune
Turbo
Tune
Drive Harder
Tune
Upgrade
Tune
Upgrade some more
Tune
Drive 50K turbocharged miles, harder than ever
Tune
Smile


Present Day (3yrs later): Not a single problem, at all, ever, with an LC-1 on any of my setups, or those I've helped tune (a handful).

I used to have trouble getting in and out of my house...then I found that I had installed my doorknob wrong.

For your sake I hope it was a fancy electronically controlled doorknob.

So I'm gonna order up an LC-1 unless I hear a good reason not to.

the MTX-L is newer and it a much better gauge than the DB. what's the price difference?

Couple $ maybe, they're close enough that price isn't a consideration. But I plan on replacing the DB guage & my existing boost gauge with one of these in a couple months
http://www.veisystems.com/d1-bopwba-m.html

Can I wire the LC-1 to both the VEI gauge and MS2? The VEI needs 0-5v output. If I can't do that then I'll just get a MTX or maybe UEGO.

Yes. Get the lc-1 then.

midpack get a 14point7 SLC
http://14point7.com/SLC-Pure-Plus-2.php
http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY-2.php
mutiple gauge inputs as well

The only innovate i want is the LM-2

expensive and cant output two 0-5v outputs.

you can affords PLX?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328565114
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328565114

If the DIY was $50 less or included a warranty I'd consider it. Having a bright green display in a sea of orange would look retarded.

What gauges are those? Can't seem to find them on their site.

a pair of DM-100 display units - non-OBD II type. Looks like they got rid of the non-OBDII type in their product line, and just started selling the OBDII at near the non-OBDII price... you'll have to do a search for the DM-100 units, the sensors are sold seperately

The MTX-L is better than the LC-1 in that the gauge is showing the actual AFR measured, where as with the LC-1 (and the DB red/blue gauges), the AFR shown swings wildly due to the nature of the analog signal being measured, also it offset by ~0.3.

I would suggest the MTX-L.

The AEM tends to overfilter (low pass) the analog output, so does the Zeitronix (which is also slow to respond on the display AND inaccurate).

Ordered the VEI boost/AFR gauge and sender last night. Found a couple gaugeless LC-1s for a decent price and I'll order one once the VEI stuff ships.

Is the MS smart enough to ignore the wild swings or will it see the same fluctuating AFR that my gauge displays?

The PLX stuff looks awesome and had myself convinced to pick up a wideband + DM5 combo for a little more than LC1 or MTX but the lack of configurable outputs was a problem with the VEI gauges. Not sure basing the wideband decision on VEI is the greatest of ideas but oh well. If it works out then I'll have boost, AFR, oil temp and pressure split between 2 gauges for cheaper than anything else I've seen.

It has a configurable filter on the input signal, called a lag factor. I set this to a sensible value on every MS I build and program.

And that is why you are building it and not me. Well that and a whole bunch of other reasons including my soldering skills which would completely destroy half the components either from heat or electrons going where they should not.

MTX-L.

I have it, it works great. just do the first calibration right and set it and forget it, or follow the innovate calibration regiment if it makes you sleep better at night.

Unlike hustler I have no problems sleeping. How many street and track miles do you have since the initial install?