I've had an MTX-L in a box for like 6 months now. too lazy to install over my LC1.
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I'll take it.
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This thread is full of stupid and I hate it.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...B_Shootout.pdf Cliffnotes: LC-1 is fast and accurate AEM is slow and accurate Everything else is ---- |
Originally Posted by midpack
(Post 832011)
Unlike hustler I have no problems sleeping. How many street and track miles do you have since the initial install?
Seriously, it was stupid easy to install and following directions that used words no larger than 5 letters (other than innovate), can't be that difficult. I do electrical ---- in my spare time, so maybe not the best guinea pig here. Very simple: Crimp two ground wires together (unless you want dimming function). attach ground attach switched 12v. turn key on without the sensor connected. give it a minute to go into calibration. turn off attach sensor turn on leave it on till "htr" appears turn off wait till the sensor is cool install into downpipe drive. Thats it. if you get something faulty out of the box, thats another story. The LC1 didn't look that bad either, I think the instructions are "complicated" because the gauge and sensor are treated as seperate units so people get confuzed. |
Thanks alot. This thread makes me feel like I need to replace my AEM linear gauge/sensor. :(
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 832039)
Thanks alot. This thread makes me feel like I need to replace my AEM linear gauge/sensor. :(
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I've got an LC-1 for sale.
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Originally Posted by Track
(Post 832034)
Crimp two ground wires together (unless you want dimming function).
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 832165)
the newer ones only even have 1 ground wire now...
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Originally Posted by dgmorr
(Post 832092)
I've got an LC-1 for sale.
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Originally Posted by Track
(Post 832195)
thats true, but if you are not using the dimming function (white wire I think), it said to put it to ground.
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Originally Posted by Techsalvager
(Post 831592)
midpack get a 14point7 SLC
http://14point7.com/SLC-Pure-Plus-2.php http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY-2.php mutiple gauge inputs as well The only innovate i want is the LM-2
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 831594)
expensive and cant output two 0-5v outputs.
Other than that it's $140 for the controller that works as a gauge and like $40 for the o2 sensor itself - same price as everything else, basically. Now, what do you need two 0-5v outputs for? |
one to the gauge one to the ECU.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 832707)
but that's only in regards to the gauge iirc, but yeah. that should go to the headlight switch thing (12v) cause you want dimming.
I don't want dimming so I put it to ground. Pretty sure I mentioned that in my original post: Crimp two ground wires together (unless you want dimming function). |
the controller is a gauge. but ok, that's a valid point I guess.
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wait I get it, my wording sucks:
Crimp two wires and tie them to ground (unless you want dimming). |
1 Attachment(s)
It is not this gauge
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328744494 It is also green and doesn't match anything in a MSM. Where did you mount it / got any pics? |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 831550)
I used to have trouble getting in and out of my house...then I found that I had installed my doorknob wrong.
I had a ton of touble with my lc1, then I took an etire afternoon of reading and learning what the hell I was doing, problem solved. |
I recommend either the PLX DM-100 which I have in my Miata (fooger's gauge)
or http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.php PLX DM-6 Both have rolling AFR graph. Useful for seeing what your AFRs were during a pull without staring at the gauge the whole time. Also has standard linear 0-5v output. |
The "WB Shootout" called the PLX the worst tested.
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Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 834444)
The "WB Shootout" called the PLX the worst tested.
Link please. |
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