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Old 04-07-2015, 02:23 PM   #41
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You gehs want a video or something? It warms up and starts showing actual afr in 4 seconds or less

My MTX-L on the other hand, was retarded slow. And I got it new. And from a reputable vendor. And it wasn't defective.
You're missing the point. It is trivial to make a gauge that fires up and provides a value instantly. The sensor will be cold and the readings inaccurate until the sensor has warmed to operating temperature.

If you can wait 20-30 seconds, the sensor will live longer and provide better accuracy throughout its life.
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Old 04-07-2015, 02:31 PM   #42
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What about when the sensor is already at operating temps and the stupid thing still makes you wait 20-30 seconds? Like on every single re-start or any time the controller loses voltage?
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:52 PM   #43
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What about when the sensor is already at operating temps and the stupid thing still makes you wait 20-30 seconds? Like on every single re-start or any time the controller loses voltage?
From cold it takes longer than the 20-30 seconds to fully reach operating temp.

The actual sensing element drops temperature quickly while unheated, so it can take some time to come back up to temperature after losing power to the heater circuit. So the answer varies based on the time unheated, the conducted thermal loss, & other variables.

It is possible to design a system that would track this with a RTC, keepalive memory, and/or evaluation of the sensor. It is simpler and cheaper just to have a countdown timer as low cost sensor insurance. The scenario of rapid power cycles while needing to provide accurate AFR data immediately after a power cycle is something of a low probability / fringe case that you generally wouldn't choose to put additional hardware on the board to deal with.

Is your car dying often enough that this is a genuine issue? What is the use case?
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:18 PM   #44
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hot restart tuning. You turn off the car for 1 second and restart and it still waits that long. I can hot restart with an aem and have data within 3-4 seconds, that was never the case with the MTX-L. The sensor won't cool off in 1 second.

This is a genuine issue for me. And by issue I mean something that pissed me off.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:31 PM   #45
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lol.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:34 PM   #46
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I request video of an MTX-L taking 20-30 seconds to warm up on a hot restart. I've never seen this. In fact, i've never seen any wideband, ever, do this.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:04 PM   #47
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So I have an AEM Uego waiting to go into my new development car along with an MS3 Basic. I want to stick a recent Innovate product in there as well so I can compare the function of the two widebands for my own experience. My last Innovate wideband was a circa 2007 LC-1 (garbage). Do I want a current-gen LC-1, an LC-2 (grounding issues?), or an MTX-L?
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:10 PM   #48
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The MTX-L is the UEGO competitor, so i'd say probably that.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:11 PM   #49
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Innovate tells people the new LC-2 is the beez kneez and way better than the 1, for whatever that's worth.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:13 PM   #50
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Quote:
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Innovate tells people the new LC-2 is the beez kneez and way better than the 1, for whatever that's worth.

I drink the Koolaid, so that's what i'll be using in the Miatas. I like the way the MTX-L works, but i find the gauge ******* ugly.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:14 PM   #51
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I installed my LC-2 about 3 weeks ago on a pretty stock 1.6l NA, in preparation for my MS2. I have noticed a good 15+ seconds of warm up time with the unit (status light blinking and 7.4 displayed on the gauge).

I was really happy with the gauge and install directions overall, good troubleshooting tips and everything feels like decent quality (minus the crap plastic C-bracket that holds the gauge in). It is one of the cheapest units that even offers calibration, has decent software support, and a large user base. They also use a pretty common Bosche O2 that you can get almost anywhere if you have a failure, cross thread, ect.

This is my only experience with a Wideband directly. I have a friend that uses the AEM unit and seems to like it. I think at this price point they are all pretty similar, but try and stay away from the older (pre 2007?) LC-1 units, there are some write-ups about putting a 7xx+ ohm resister on them to function properly.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:25 PM   #52
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Did you wire the LC-2 directly to the battery with a relay? That's what the instructions specified for me, and it made a difference in warm up time and reliability.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:40 PM   #53
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Did you wire the LC-2 directly to the battery with a relay? That's what the instructions specified for me, and it made a difference in warm up time and reliability.

Yeah, it did say that as a possible powered option. I didn't do that. I put in a "build-a-circuit" and wired it to a distribution block that powers all my gauges in the car. I like to try and keep things as modular as possible for troubleshooting and quick remove/replace options.


The start up time is really not a concern I have, but I can understand why others may want something more immediate...Merica!
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