Connector Witch Hunt
#461
I'm wondering if anyone has found the part numbers and has a source for the in tank fuel pump wiring pins.
Inside the NB fuel tank, there is a two plug connector each with two wires. One of the plugs is for the fuel level, the other is the fuel power.
When installing an upgraded aftermarket fuel pump, the best way to wire this safely is to skip splices and instead de-pin the two way power connector and crimp on new ends.
I am working on finding the correct part number. What information do I need to give in order to source the correct part? I'll edit the post in a few minutes with close up pictures of the female pin.
Inside the NB fuel tank, there is a two plug connector each with two wires. One of the plugs is for the fuel level, the other is the fuel power.
When installing an upgraded aftermarket fuel pump, the best way to wire this safely is to skip splices and instead de-pin the two way power connector and crimp on new ends.
I am working on finding the correct part number. What information do I need to give in order to source the correct part? I'll edit the post in a few minutes with close up pictures of the female pin.
#463
Got an email from Ballenger last night. Here is the info:
CONN-100989
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/4316
Corsa-Technic also has the part in including the blue plastic connector housing.
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=521
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1232&category_id=248
CONN-100989
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/4316
Corsa-Technic also has the part in including the blue plastic connector housing.
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=521
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1232&category_id=248
#464
Bumping an old thread...
I'm looking for the clutch interlock connector, like this one here...
https://supermiata.com/miata-clutch-...ck-bypass.aspx
I want to steal a start signal and a starter output signal for ECU starter control and making a little harness seems like the best bet.
I have a spare interlock switch I can cut a harness off of, but finding a new connector would be a little cleaner.
Anyone know what it's called?
Thanks!!
I'm looking for the clutch interlock connector, like this one here...
https://supermiata.com/miata-clutch-...ck-bypass.aspx
I want to steal a start signal and a starter output signal for ECU starter control and making a little harness seems like the best bet.
I have a spare interlock switch I can cut a harness off of, but finding a new connector would be a little cleaner.
Anyone know what it's called?
Thanks!!
#465
I'm looking for the clutch interlock connector, like this one here...
https://supermiata.com/miata-clutch-...ck-bypass.aspx
https://supermiata.com/miata-clutch-...ck-bypass.aspx
Here’s a Corsa Technic product link because their prices are the most reasonable.
There’s always the caveat that keyways and such might vary, but lacking a closeup photo, I’d say it’s not the kind of connector where that would be commonly employed. It’s very similar to a basic TE FASTIN-FASTON in that the terminals are very similar to .250” quick-disconnects.
#467
I needed 90-93 auto and manual TPS connectors (harness side) awhile back. I saw some options for the manual in this thread, but the only replacement option I saw for the auto required chiseling the connector keys to fit. I came across another option for both with the help of Google images: some DSM connectors can serve as non-exact replacement parts if you are willing to re-terminate your wires. Below is an example source for each of these connectors, but if you search for the DSM connectors ("DSM VSS connector", etc) you will probably find many other options as well...
VSS 3p connector for 2G DSM cars (90-93 Miata manual 3p TPS)
TPS 4p connector for 1G/2G DSM cars (90-93 Miata auto 4p TPS)
I ordered these at different points in time and was in a rush both times. I ordered from the sources above in large part based on estimated delivery times. I later found other sources I would probably consider first if I were ordering again today (and Ballenger didn't have them) such as Sheridan Engineering - Connectors. They list a variety of connectors, including a 'JFC series' of connectors which include 3p and 4p connectors with the same DSM application compatibility as those I ordered above.
I was using the 4p connector for awhile with a stock auto TPS without issue and now I am using the 3p with an OEM BMW TPS (the one specified by FM for use with their 1.6 TPS adapter). I also successfully tested mating compatibility with the OEM manual 3p TPS.
Miata (left) vs DSM (right). The 3p connector is shown - the 4p situation is very similar. The connector interfaces are plug and play - no chiseling or other modifications on either side. The differences I noted are all in other areas. These DSM connectors use individual weather seals for each wire like most of the other connectors under the hood in my 1992 Miata (vs a single boot for everything with the original TPS connector). The retention clip design is a little different as well. The pins in these DSM connectors were much easier for me to remove for re-pinning. And the DSM connectors include a plastic clip which appears to be for the purpose of helping retain the wires (perhaps because the pins are easier to pull out of the connector). It looks to me like the internal pin retention design is different enough to prevent interchanging pins between the two connector designs. So I would guess the results won't be good, if it even works at all, if you try to use these shells with the original Mazda pins. I didn't try it as I didn't want to get a pin stuck in a bad way, etc. I used the pins provided with the connectors to re-terminate my wires and it is working well so far in my 1992.
VSS 3p connector for 2G DSM cars (90-93 Miata manual 3p TPS)
TPS 4p connector for 1G/2G DSM cars (90-93 Miata auto 4p TPS)
I ordered these at different points in time and was in a rush both times. I ordered from the sources above in large part based on estimated delivery times. I later found other sources I would probably consider first if I were ordering again today (and Ballenger didn't have them) such as Sheridan Engineering - Connectors. They list a variety of connectors, including a 'JFC series' of connectors which include 3p and 4p connectors with the same DSM application compatibility as those I ordered above.
I was using the 4p connector for awhile with a stock auto TPS without issue and now I am using the 3p with an OEM BMW TPS (the one specified by FM for use with their 1.6 TPS adapter). I also successfully tested mating compatibility with the OEM manual 3p TPS.
Miata (left) vs DSM (right). The 3p connector is shown - the 4p situation is very similar. The connector interfaces are plug and play - no chiseling or other modifications on either side. The differences I noted are all in other areas. These DSM connectors use individual weather seals for each wire like most of the other connectors under the hood in my 1992 Miata (vs a single boot for everything with the original TPS connector). The retention clip design is a little different as well. The pins in these DSM connectors were much easier for me to remove for re-pinning. And the DSM connectors include a plastic clip which appears to be for the purpose of helping retain the wires (perhaps because the pins are easier to pull out of the connector). It looks to me like the internal pin retention design is different enough to prevent interchanging pins between the two connector designs. So I would guess the results won't be good, if it even works at all, if you try to use these shells with the original Mazda pins. I didn't try it as I didn't want to get a pin stuck in a bad way, etc. I used the pins provided with the connectors to re-terminate my wires and it is working well so far in my 1992.
#468
I did find a part.-nr. for the instrument cluster connector terminals - but I have no chance to find a part.-nr. for the housings...
Part.Nr. Terminals: D5AB-14474-FA
Terminal Supply Company - Product Detail : TERMINALS & CONNECTORS -> TERMINALS -> TERMINALS - FORD -> D5AB-14474-FA
Part.Nr. Terminals: D5AB-14474-FA
Terminal Supply Company - Product Detail : TERMINALS & CONNECTORS -> TERMINALS -> TERMINALS - FORD -> D5AB-14474-FA
Pictures of the terminal:
#470
So I'm knock-sensor-ifying my '94 for an eminent ecu install, and given the proximity to the oil pressure sender for the stock location, I wanted a sensor that is as compact as possible. This guy seemed to fit the bill: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/con...nsor_KS4-R.pdf . Conveniently also available from wrecked alfa-romeo/maserati 2.9L V6s (or Lithuania but I'll take my chances on a 40k Maserati) and it supposedly works with an M12x1.25 to M8x1.25 I should be able to either find (e.g. ballenger but I'm too cheap) or turn myself.
While it's basically the same sensor as this guy that Haltech/Ballenger/etc. also sell, just with connector on sensor vs. wire lead: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/con...nsor_KS4-P.pdf . While these are available way more readily (MB used them for tons of stuff - https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...188/544157_0_0), I really think it would make life easier to have the wire lead version.
Problem: while the merc/KS4-P uses an easy to find Bosch EV1 connector, I've had zero luck running down oem part numbers for the connector of the maserati/KS4-R version...and I even have the datasheet! wtf bosch.
post-find edit because of course I would stumble on the GM part number as I write this:
Turns out this guy -- 2-Pin RB-Kp.1, which I'm pretty unsure of how it differs from the RB-Kp.3 the maserati connector is supposed to be for - 0261.231.223 -but just going to pretend it doesn't matter, was also the connector for some random Holden CLT sensor AND the fuel injector connector for the 6.6L durmax silverados.
https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.co...-2-pin-compact
https://www.efihardware.com/products...in-Late-Female
led to:
current problem: do these seriously only come in a pigtail version from GM? I really don't need 16 gauge wire for a knock sensor, and what's the point of getting nice tefzel wire if you don't use it? EFI Hardware seems to sell the pins+plugs, but they're in Australia and I'm having trouble coming up with the part numbers for what they call "twin lock bosch pins"...
Any random duramax oracles out there?
While it's basically the same sensor as this guy that Haltech/Ballenger/etc. also sell, just with connector on sensor vs. wire lead: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/con...nsor_KS4-P.pdf . While these are available way more readily (MB used them for tons of stuff - https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...188/544157_0_0), I really think it would make life easier to have the wire lead version.
Problem: while the merc/KS4-P uses an easy to find Bosch EV1 connector, I've had zero luck running down oem part numbers for the connector of the maserati/KS4-R version...and I even have the datasheet! wtf bosch.
post-find edit because of course I would stumble on the GM part number as I write this:
Turns out this guy -- 2-Pin RB-Kp.1, which I'm pretty unsure of how it differs from the RB-Kp.3 the maserati connector is supposed to be for - 0261.231.223 -but just going to pretend it doesn't matter, was also the connector for some random Holden CLT sensor AND the fuel injector connector for the 6.6L durmax silverados.
https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.co...-2-pin-compact
https://www.efihardware.com/products...in-Late-Female
led to:
current problem: do these seriously only come in a pigtail version from GM? I really don't need 16 gauge wire for a knock sensor, and what's the point of getting nice tefzel wire if you don't use it? EFI Hardware seems to sell the pins+plugs, but they're in Australia and I'm having trouble coming up with the part numbers for what they call "twin lock bosch pins"...
Any random duramax oracles out there?
#471
I'm not sure about the Bosch part but this may be an alternative TE connector that you should be able find a source for. You'd have to check the dimensions against the Bosch drawing to make sure it is compatible.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-936059-1.html
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-936059-1.html
#472
I'm not sure about the Bosch part but this may be an alternative TE connector that you should be able find a source for. You'd have to check the dimensions against the Bosch drawing to make sure it is compatible.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-936059-1.html
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-936059-1.html
Really appreciate it, have a cat.
#473
Well I guess I spoke too soon, looks like that GM/TE part is correct for the 2-Pin RB-Kp.1(D261.205.337-01), but not the 2-Pin RB-Kp.3(F02U.B00.967-01)?
This is from some British site specifically marketed under the Kp.3 part number:
https://webshop.swindonpowertrain.co...product_id=253
I guess it's a different pin/pin-locking system? Can I buy ya a pint for another round of help @Barton
This is from some British site specifically marketed under the Kp.3 part number:
https://webshop.swindonpowertrain.co...product_id=253
I guess it's a different pin/pin-locking system? Can I buy ya a pint for another round of help @Barton
#474
The sensor data sheet states either Kp1 or Kp3. I've not seen that one you found before but I guess if the dimensions are correct it will work. I believe a variant of the one I posted should work however it may not be the correct keyway. I can't seem to find a datasheet of the bosch connector to check against but even if you did get the wrong keyway you could always cut the keyway off the connector to make it fit.
#475
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Looking for ECU pins for 99/00 with the green connectors. They are similar to the AMP connectors for the NA but they are longer, the have the support tabs I think is to keep from moving vertically, and the locking tab is further back as well. I can't find it anywhere, have been searching thru the AMP catalogs and can't find this contact.
#476
Ok I’ve read the entire thread and didn’t see it so here goes:
This is for an NB2.
Chasing the terminals to fit the white horn connector on the dash side of the clock spring.
Looks like a similar style connector to the NB2 ecu so I’m hoping this is an easily identifiable and available terminal.
It is oh so similar to the NB ECU terminals but only has 1 slide locator tab on top and is slightly shorter. This is the terminal itself:
ZaBtT.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/GqZaBtT.jpg
SOLVED! It is the same terminal as the NB2 ECU. TE 316836-1. Different design as the ecu terminal is slightly longer but is still enclosed in the housing and the housing has provisions for the 2nd vertical tab of the 316836-1. I had to crimp the wire ever so slightly narrower than what the factory ecu terminals are to fit but it works.
This will allow me to utilise the spare wires through the clockspring for steering wheel mounted controls.
This is for an NB2.
Chasing the terminals to fit the white horn connector on the dash side of the clock spring.
Looks like a similar style connector to the NB2 ecu so I’m hoping this is an easily identifiable and available terminal.
It is oh so similar to the NB ECU terminals but only has 1 slide locator tab on top and is slightly shorter. This is the terminal itself:
ZaBtT.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/GqZaBtT.jpg
SOLVED! It is the same terminal as the NB2 ECU. TE 316836-1. Different design as the ecu terminal is slightly longer but is still enclosed in the housing and the housing has provisions for the 2nd vertical tab of the 316836-1. I had to crimp the wire ever so slightly narrower than what the factory ecu terminals are to fit but it works.
This will allow me to utilise the spare wires through the clockspring for steering wheel mounted controls.
Last edited by AussieMSM; 08-28-2023 at 10:52 PM. Reason: Update
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