Since this thread resurfaced I came to think of my four year temporary solution for connecting the Jenvey TPS to my NB unmodified harness.
Do anyone know of a male version of the 3pin TPS connector?

I might have asked this before, but all I remember from my Google-fu last time I checked was that that connector was sensor only.

I'll get that updated on our Miata list here tomorrow: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php

It is device only from the manufacturer. I can get a lower quality one someone made but the MOQ is ~500 pieces iirc.

The sensible thing is to get a male & female that use the same terminals. This way, you can take your connector off and put another connector on using the same terminals. Then you can use the mate to go to your desired TPS.

Plug (to replace stock NB connector as a drop-in)
CONN-100300

Receptacle (for new throttle). You have this connect to the stock NB harness now that you put CONN-100300 on it. The terminals that come out of the back of the CONN-100320 have wires that run to your new throttle connector.
CONN-100320

Edit, confirmed that it is identical to the ecu temperature sensor plug for the back of the head. Looks exactly like the stock piece (except color) and fits the factory sensor just fine.

It should fit. We vetted the part some time ago and had the application information already listed for that product as the NA Miata. If you go back to the product page and go to the applications tab, you'd see it there.

I've updated our application list with the NA CLT Connector, Kit, & Pigtail!

In other Miata news, I added some ECU headers and connectors for the NA tonight. I'll be flushing these out and the NB header & connectors in the next few weeks:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ad...bcat=1&x=0&y=0

Aww snap!

I chewed up one of the ECU connectors on my NB with a tool inappropriate to the purpose during a fit of rage and frustration. I'm glad a replacement option for the body now exists :bigtu:

The knock connector on my harness does not hat the seperator between the pins like the ones in those links do.

Mine looks like this.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dcae285246.png

Now that you say that I think I had to snip that off the connector with dykes when I wired mine.

The orange front lock is an improvement that is unique to the newer series. It holds the terminals more accurately, allowing them to live longer lives with better signal with less spring wear on the female terminals. They are cross-compatible with a few exceptions, notably some Mitsubishi stuff.

On a separate note, does anyone have NC ECU Connector info? Detailed images in focus with good lighting of any numbers or markings on them and views of the front would be helpful. Knowing the blade width of the male terminals will help too. Email any info to sales@bmotorsports.com please.

I just wanted to say thanks for keeping an updated list of Miata connectors. It made finding the CAS and injector connectors I needed so much easier.

Speaking of which, I added knock/abs, purge solenoid, ecu connectors, and some other details to the authoritative list here:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php

While I updated the spreadsheet that is kept for this thread, at this point there are errors and missing data in it. I think we've finally come to the point where the list on our page is now more up to date, authoritative, and has more components than the spreadsheet. I still do need to update for better distinction between NA/NB/NC and year ranges but this is one of those side projects where I put in a little time here and there where I am able to.

Here's a weird one.

Does anyone know the part number (oem or otherwise) of the pins that go on the car-side connector to the clockspring on a 2000 NB?
(Connector F2-06 in the factory wiring manual)

This might be a long shot, has anyone successfully found a replacement for the chassis clips that some of the Miata connectors have? A few of mine are broken and I'd like to replace them.

Anyone got a line on the plug for the oxygen sensor on a 1995—the plug that is connected to the sensor cable (that you'd need to attach to a universal oxygen sensor), not the one on the harness side.

This one?:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/1095 (Kit is CONN-75702, Pigtail is CONN-85702). If not, show me what you have, we probably have both sides of it.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php

Im looking for the pins and seals for EV14 injectors. The only ones i see on your site are the EV6 type. Do you offer the ev14 black uscar stuff?

They are the same connector, color is irrelevant. Many manufacturers have an EV6/EV14 connector so you have to match terminals and pins to housing manufacturer. They mate to the same injectors. We carry Delphi ones which are also offered in black.

these

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a5990e1142.png

Those are the Ford version. Terminals should be CONN-100481, seals CONN-100173 .

awesome, thanks. i put my order in yesterday. Thanks for your support!

alright VTJ, got a good one for you. Need pins for the chassis to door connector on a MSM. Pics of connector and pins below. They look similar to the knock pins but with bigger tabs.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9f&oe=58B7F8B9
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0b&oe=58B770E7
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...67&oe=58B78597

alright VTJ, got a good one for you. Need pins for the chassis to door connector on a MSM. Pics of connector and pins below. They look similar to the knock pins but with bigger tabs.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9f&oe=58B7F8B9
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0b&oe=58B770E7
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...67&oe=58B78597

I can't tell a few details from those images. We don't carry as much body connections compared to powertrain connections. I need to know the blade width of the terminals and have full res images in focus with good lighting. Can send them to sales at bmotorsports.com .

Quick update, I got some of these from Mouser and they work, they are a little physically too long but it does fit and all.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...ey571-368036-1

TE Connectivity

368036-1.

Anyone got any idea where to get these NA Miata power window harness connectors, specifically the male end that goes to the switch?
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e97db95d3d.png

Not sure, we might. Got a shot that is high res, in focus, with a few angles, & with good lighting? The blur fest leaves a lot of questions unanswered ;) .

Sorry, I stole that pic off the intarwebs. Is this one better?
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0bd1fc7765.jpg
Sorry, focus still isn't perfect, but it's hard to make my damn iPhone focus closeup on the spot I want. But at least it's big! :)

Looking for a '99 Fan plug seen in Post #109 https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...e6/#post986284

I cannot find it on any of the vendors listed, or through a search

Sorry, haven't gotten to some of the other requests recently, been VERY busy and do hope to catch up.

We've added the Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector (CLT) for NB!

• Mazda Miata Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector (CLT) for NB (CONN-100812)
• Mazda Miata Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector (CLT) for NB (CONN-75905)
• Mazda Miata Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector (CLT) for NB (CONN-85905)

For our complete Miata listing page, see here:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php

Another addition the community has asked for!

Sorry, haven't gotten to some of the other requests recently, been VERY busy and do hope to catch up.

We've added the 4 Way 99-2000 Mazda Miata Igntion Coil Receptacle Connector, Kit, Pigtail, & Extension!

• 4 Way 99-2000 Mazda Miata Igntion Coil Receptacle Connector (CONN-100937)
• 4 Way 99-2000 Mazda Miata Igntion Coil Receptacle Connector Kit (CONN-76032)
• 4 Way 99-2000 Mazda Miata Igntion Coil Receptacle Connector Pigtail (CONN-86032)

For our complete Miata listing page, see here:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php

I believe I've found what I was looking for:

Namz MT Sealed Series 3-Position Male Connector NS-6187-3231

Nice. We haven't gotten many requests for that one.

Terminals for it (CONN-00115):
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...roducts_id/686

Seals for it (CONN-00145):
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...roducts_id/940

This could be the ultimate "connector", and you can get it on eBay and Amazon. It's called 'solder seal heat shrink", which means that it's got a circle of low temp solder in the middle of a clear heat shrink tube. You join the two wires (mesh/twist if possible), heat up the solder and what you end up with is a perfectly soldered connection that's also waterproof. And small. And flexible. We've been using this for a while, but they used to only be available via mil-spec sources. That = expensive. Not any more. Check it out:

FYI this is not what we and other professionals use in top level motorsports harnesses. We avoid solder in such harnesses. We avoid splices anywhere other than a segment of wire that will be straight and whose direction will be controlled. We avoid any magic bullets found through cheaper eBay/Amazon sourcing.

Splicing well is done with either quality parallel butt or quality butt connections covered in quality adhesive lined heatshrink. Alternatively, some decent ones exist that have the heat shrink over the joint. You can go high end, but you don't need to. You should use a proper crimper. In the example case shown, your wires should extend to the injectors with crimps that you perform & validate. They should not be that short with a splice in a bend radius.

In all cheap connectors that are pre-terminated that we have tested, we've found crimps that are appallingly bad. Factory crimps are far better and factory crimp results can be replicated with proper tooling and validation.

Please don't keep doing what you've shown us in that video. It isn't the ultimate, it isn't done well, and it isn't a good joint. You don't know the quality of the crimps unless they came from an excellent source, and you shouldn't be using a splice in that location at all. If you want product links, reference material, etc for this let me know. I didn't want to turn this into a dissertation or hollow the purpose by making it appear like a product placement. Sorry to crap on this parade but I really don't want to see poor product usage & methodology spread as apparent reference material.

I will be sure to tell this to the military-industrial complex, especially when using these splices on towed sonar arrays and unmanned drones. Seriously, we use these all the time and I can't recommend them enough. What we usually do to guarantee a good connection is make a "U" of each wire end, connect them, and then center the solder over them. I usually follow with a second heat shrink tube over the connection, just to be safe. BTW, those little red collars are what makes the connection water-tight. I'm sure not perfectly water tight, so don't use it for underwater applications. Otherwise, solder seal heat shrink is absolutely a great way to go. If you must, spend the extra dough on mil-spec units.

NOT a cost issue. A cheap duraseal adhesive lined butt connection is fine for this grade of harness. Putting ANY butt connection where you did is incorrect and will be prone to failure.

You used poor technique, in a terrible location, with an inappropriate product (short pigtail necessitating a butt connection where it shouldn't be).

You brushing off professional advice in your own work is one thing but putting it here as reference material is misleading.

Not to completely beat a dead horse, but the reason I know about these connectors is because they were in the call-out for wiring for a submarine towed sonar array, and for the wiring harness for a military drone. In other words, mission critical components. I've used the aftermarket style in cars for the past two years and have not had a failure. I can't say the same about butt connectors.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bdfb88c39d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12d682aecb.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0b18a2fc8.jpg

We are talking across eachother at this point. Disregard for a moment the cheap eBay / Amazon part you are recommending and I am cautioning against (there is a reason they are cheap and the no solder diatribe is beaten to death by the pros, including myself https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-...r-vs-crimping/ ).

Overall, your work is good and I have a lot of respect for your car and the work you've done on it. When I saw your video however, as a professional in this industry, I nearly had a conniption and was saying no, no, no, no, please no. Given your other work, I didn't expect this. So I said something. You are stuck on the product part of this, which we can choose to disagree on. The larger problem is EVERYTHING ELSE.

You've put a butt connection where it shouldn't exist. Ever. You didn't use a heat reflector. The solder may be a cold joint (it's hard to see). The harness flex isn't controlled, there is no lacing or support. You've put it on a short pigtail where you should have the wire terminated on the terminal you crimped for this harness. These look like knock-off pigtails, which, if you open them up are probably garbage crimps. This is not the type of work you want on an injector connection where intermittents can cause engine failure.

Here is some good termination information: Terminal Crimp Validation Charts | Ballenger Motorsports .

Here is some basic information on splices:
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/ins...20Splices.html

Raychem Solderless sleeve instructions attached.

Garbage, no pass crimp from a trailer connection kit:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ecf1d5e3f2.jpg

Thanks to everyone for putting all this info together in one place. I'm currently on the hunt for the 4 wire connector for an 1990-1993 automatic Throttle Position Sensor. I didn't see it in the spreadsheet or the bmotorsports site. Anyone know what it is/ where to get it?

I think we have that in stock but not online yet. Can you post or sent high resolution images, in focus images in good lighting ? Focus on any keyway patterns and iso view please.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...179992c45e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d89c97b114.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94b0eef196.jpg

Sorry I know those pics are pretty lame, hopefully its enough to go on... it appears that the connector would have a metal clip around it like the one on the Air Flow Meter.

I have this one in stock but not on the website yet. CONN-75954 for the kit, CONN-85954 for the pigtail. Wrong keyways. If you carefully chisel yours with a sharp chisel you can remove said keyways and use this. You'd have to be careful about the pinout with the keyways removed.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...693a9f3c32.jpg

I can manage taking the keyways off and would gladly use that connector but I'm a noob at wiring connectors. Can I purchase one that already has leads? Or is it really easy to add wires to the connector? Do I need any special tools? Thanks

Edit: Maybe you already answered my question, is the pigtail a connector already populated with wires? Thanks again.

A pigtail is already populated with pre-terminated wires, yes.

Anyone have any luck finding the 4 pin AC fan relay connector for an NB1? The wire got corroded and snapped inside the connector.

Ordered, thanks!

A relevant product release for Miata CAM & Crank Sensor Issues:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/in.../cPath/129_572

We kept hearing from Miata customers with failing CAM & Crank Sensors. We worked with a few teams to come up with a variety of solutions to solve the problem (s).

We have a SCCA legal setup, a rules unlimited setup with race quality shielded wiring back to the ECU, & a production / street setup that should improve reliability with a sensor & connector change.

We are also doing some race quality ignition harnesses after finding issues with that part of the harness. Once we have wider coverage, we should have an announcement there.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e73dfa21ca.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d08c6c353.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...efe1239ed1.jpg

Any ideas on what the NB2 ABS plug is and if/where I can get one? I am actually looking for both sides of it for a little project I have in mind.

VERY detailed, in focus, well-lit images and any text on the connectors will help identify them.

Will jump to it as soon as I get back ;)

I'm guessing these aren't oem cas/cam sensors. Are these more durable than normal ones? Getting stranded because of the crappy cas I got from autozone sucked. Their description says they are but I was wondering if people can attest to their durability.

The problems are a mix of the sensor & the interconnect system used on the stock assembly. The sensors & wiring we offer are more durable based on our testing & evaluation of construction.

Keep in mind there are multiple variations we offer here. The production sensor kit (SNSR-100565) uses a different connector. The Spec Miata version (SNSR-100561) steps it up to a higher end assembly as allowed by SCCA rules. The Unlimited version (SNSR-100563) offers a completely dedicated shielded motorsports grade harness back to the ECU. We also have an unlimited Crank Sensor (SNSR-100564).

Need a source where to get this connector for single wire blade - coolant temp guage
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...3aa8&zw&atsh=1

VVT female 2way: 6189-0249
NA coils (harness side) female 4 way: 6195-0015
Stock Injectors 2way: 6189-0060
NB TPS: 7283-1133-10
NB IAC: 184000-1
Knock sensor: 6195-0006, 6195-0003
NB Camshaft sensor: 7283-8730-30
NB VVT Coils:6195-0009

Cheers
Elior

Fuel Pump Connector added:
4 Way Fuel Pump Connector
Connector ONLY CONN-100811 4 Way Mazda Fuel Pump Plug Connector
Connector Kit CONN-75905 4 Way Mazda Fuel Pump Plug Connector Kit
Connector Pigtail CONN-85905 4 Way Mazda Fuel Pump Plug Connector Pigtail

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...97659582fc.png


Not sure which years, if you tell me I will update it.

anyone know where to get an ignition molex connector ?

You're sure it's 4 pins (as you say in your other thread)? Miata workshop manual indicates 6, and your pic shows 6.

Just checked. Missed that. It's a 6 pin.

Looks the same as the fuel pump relay connector. let me know if you find it.

No markings on the connector?