Yes, with dual TPS sensors.

2 wires for the electric motor, 1 wire for TPS 5v, 1 wire for TPS ground, 2 wires for the TPS1 and TPS2 signals.

Not sure which one you are seeing in the junkyard (kind of depends on what you are looking at)? The Delphi one commonly used on GMs and used with many aftermarket systems uses CONN-75750 as a kit or CONN-85750 as a pigtail.

Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

If you can get us images, part numbers, vehicle application etc we can check it specifically.

Thanks, good catch. You saw my post and corrected my error within 6 minutes. I should use this forum for validation all the time. I did deploy the correction.

Good to know on the wiring, the service manual just offered wire colors and the Mazda diagrams leave a lot to be desired compared GM for example.

Added some coil and coil connector information. We are stocking the GM Truck Coils & Toyota COPs new... obviously they are cheaper used so will see how that works out.

Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

This might not solve all of your connector woes but we stock a couple of the handy ones.

LINK: Coil On Plug & Ignition

I did some reading in the connector witch hunt thread and have seen the online excel sheet for the connectors. I am looking for a male end connector for the 1995 Miata coil pack. I see the same type of connector on the 1995 Miata cam sensor. If I could find that male version that is fastened to the cam sensor housing, it would work fine. My goal is to built my own ignition harness without cutting up the factory harness. I'm no where near a parts yard. If I missed this information somewhere on this website - sorry. Below is the plug that I want to connect INTO:

4-Way Receptacle Kit

The description said that the mating half is not available. It is the mating half I am looking for. If this connector is unavailable anywhere, what is the method being used to hook into an OEM harness without cutting into it?

Unavailable, the mate for that connector was never made. Remove the factory coil subharness and connect to the harness where the sub harness did.

As Leafy said, it was never made except for being on the coil packs. I took and old dead coil pack once and cut off the connectors to make a PnP Cops harness years ago.

I took another look and found the subharness connector. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks for the message!

Hi Allen - this is why when you sent me a message I asked what your goals were...

LINK

This is the connector.

If you have full part numbers I have found that Octopart is a good place to find items in stock.

Datasheets, Electronic Parts, Components, Search - Octopart

They even list the ECU connector parts...

Haven't put them up yet on the Miata list we keep updated but the 4 way coil connectors, 3 way coil connectors, 4 way subharness connectors and 2 way ABS/Knock connectors are on the site and somewhat recently added. Just to cover the below, a connector housing is housing + lock only. Kit is with terminals and seals for you to crimp, pigtails come with 12" / 305mm wire leads and preassembled for those without enough harness length or crimp tools.

4 way subharness plug
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

4 way ignition subharness receptacle
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

2 way abs/knock plug
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

2 way abs/knock receptacle
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

3 & 4 way coil connectors:
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

We had a lot of people asking for these parts, so here they are!

I will have you know that I ordered these from elsewhere exactly 9 minutes before you made that post :facepalm:

But no worries, you still have more stuff I need. Thanks for keeping stock and bringing things in that we are looking for :bigtu:

Does anyone know the pin size of this connector? I'm trying to repin the plug to accept a 12awg wire for the fuel pump.

Thanks!

-B

If you need 12ga wire going into the pump then I dont believe there are terminals for that connected rated high enough. I used this Racetronix - Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way, I left the pickup on the original one and ran my 12ga wire into a pair of 14 ga wire, for the same amerapge carrying capacity. But now I found a better solution. The one below can actually handle 12ga wire and current without having to double up terminals.

Racetronix - Connector, Fuel Bulkhead 4-Way 280/150
+
Racetronix - Connector Set, M/P 280 US, Female
+
Racetronix - Connector Set, 4-Way GT280S

What he said.

That being said - If you just need a couple of terminals for 12 AWG I'll send them to you for the cost of shipping.

Start with this post and keep reading the thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...5/#post1138772

The thread itself has a bunch of stupid in it, but the fuel pump wiring recommendations are solid. I'm probably going to buy this: Racetronix - Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way as to not dick around with the stock connector.

Check my post and tryout the one I wish I went with please. I'm almost certain its much better.

I just saw that, I had to answer the phone so you and Fab beat me to it. I may actually try that one though, for my application it looks overkill. Me likey overkill.

It's also like $35 cheaper than the one I posted. Me likey cheaper :giggle:

Wait a sec... the RCS-027 bulkhead thing says this:
Racetronix - Connector, Fuel Bulkhead 4-Way 280/150

That makes me more than a little nervous. Is this "keyed" or something like the universal one I posted earlier?

Drat, no it needs another piece we dont have I thought it was included because it was shown on the technical drawing, but it isnt. But the reference on the drawing seems to have enough detail that you could get that part made up.

Thank you for the generous offer! Where can I paypal the shipping fees?

-B

RATS! There is no retaining clip and it looks like it needs another harness of some sorts on the bottom of the bulkhead connector.

-B

Did anyone ever find a Sumitomo DL 090 4 Position .090 Sealed Male Connector in order to adapt the NB CMP and CPK sensors to the NA CAS harness connector?

IT DOES NOT EXIST, CONFIRMED BY SUMITOMO.

If you want one, order 100,000 connector housings for it from Sumitomo.

Random thought:

A few people on this forum posses the ability to individually 3d print hard-to-find connector housings out of ABS plastic.

Would they include the same rubber gaskets as OEM? No. Use grease.
Would they prove to be as resistant to heat and mechanical stress? Good question.

The CAS side connector doesnt even have a seal, thats on the harness side. And if it was made correctly you would just use the Sumitomo DL seals for the terminals. I'm not going to model the connector up in cad and try to make it actually functional when made in a 3d printer. Getting the terminal retention system to work is going to be a massive bitch and might even be impossible on current 3d printer tech.

Since I got so much info from this thread.... I thought I'd contribute.

I sourced the 01+ Coil near plug connectors from Ballenger motorsports part #CONN-85775. These connectors make a good connection but they do not seem to clip into the coil near plugs like the oem connectors do.

At any rate... All I did was throw a zip tie around them to make sure they are held in and don't vibrate loose. They still work like a champ, however I'd suggest to others that it may be better to try and find OEM connectors to splice in if you're looking for 100% oem operation. :vash:

The OEM ones that do clip on are just sumitomo DL 3 position connectors.

well... then they changed the mold or something since they were used in the miata. I have qty 2 oem connectors that were cut out of an 01+ wiring harness and qty 2 that I sourced from ballenger. The ballenger ones do not clip into the coils and the OEM ones clip in perfectly.

I did realize they were the same connector by reading this thread... that's why i bought them and assumed they'd work perfectly. Which is why i'm posting that I was surprised so I could pass on my experience. :2cents:

Hmm, the ones I got from eastern beaver were fine.

So Weather Pack connectors it is then for mating the NB sensors to the NA harness. Thanks.

The OEM connectors on my 2001 do not click into my coil packs. They are a very tight fit though and it has not caused me any issues.

Any info on the pin part number for the diagnostic box on 96-97?

I just ordered those but can't compare with OEM that I don't have... and VVT connector as I saw EOK post too late.

Will try to give an update in few days.

On that subject- here is a functional beta connector for the NA8 MAF male side:

1.8 miata MAF connector BETA by AlecMoody on Shapeways

What are people's thoughts on buying one off connectors? That $11.64 is cost from shapeways. If they were cost + $5 and you had to add your own pins would people order them?

Can anyone make a quick list of which connectors are the most in demand? I could add weather sealing to these connectors but it would be expensive since it is a lot of labor to make tiny little molds, degass and then pour a half oz of silicone.

I would've paid $20 for the male CAS connector.

Also, does anyone know where to source terminals that are compatible with the OEM sizes? The delphi 280 series I am using is a really bad fit in the MAF connector and I can't find anything with the OEM dimensions.

The CAS side connector is the one you really need to do. Thats the one that would make PNP 99+ swaps a reality. The male side of NA TPS and IAC connectors less so.

The shapeways FDM process is ok for molding the external elements but not the internal springs that retain the terminals and hold them in plane. It is also not a high temperature material. The pins are CONN-100069 here -> Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo TS Sealed Series Male Terminal, Brass/Tin ( 20 - 16 gauge ) . The seals are CONN-00145 here -> Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo HM / MT / TS Sealed Series wire seal, black ( 22 - 18 gauge ) .

If you want to break out the function of the maf or adapt it to something else, it makes more sense to use the male to adapt to something else unless I am misunderstanding the intent.

For example, you can take the female terminals and repin them in a housing they work with, like CONN-100453 here -> Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » 6 Way Denso diesel injection Pressure sensor Plug (+1 cavity plug). Then use the other side, CONN-100454 here -> Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » 6 Way Denso diesel injection Pressure sensor receptacle with terminals CONN-100069 & seals CONN-00145 and you can then adapt to whatever on the other side of that connection. You don't have to cut up your harness this way.

We already have both sides of the newer MAF on the NB iirc. CONN-75759 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/2077 , CONN-75758 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/2075 .

You can use CONN-100453 & CONN-100454 to match up the other side of the CAS using the same terminals but a variant housing with the same terminal count. Again, a solution that doesn't require a mold or complex work or cutting your harness, just an adapter.

There are more than one terminal type on the car. If you mean the MAF, it is 2.3mm and the mating terminal is CONN-100069 here -> Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo TS Sealed Series Male Terminal, Brass/Tin ( 20 - 16 gauge ) . Several other terminals series mate as 2.3mm is a common series size.

The terminal that actually fits in the MAF plug is CONN-11856 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1567 and the seal is CONN-00145 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/940 .

FWIW shapeway's basic material is SLS nylon and it should be good past 200f.

Also, unless the drawings are wrong the connectors you posted look like they are for the NB maf. I searched around for the NA maf connector earlier this year but gave up. If they are available I defiantly want to be able to order them.

I've had these sorts of parts made by shapeways in the Strong & Flexible and Detailed Plastic. The Strong and Flexible is 176F according to their website here -> Strong & Flexible Plastic 3D Printing Material Information - Shapeways . The Detailed Plastic is much lower and entirely unsuitable except for mockup. Bear in mind the material is weakening up to this point and neither material is really suitable for extended use under the hood.

I thought it was FDM but they do say SLS. It comes with powder on the parts and vertical inaccuracy typical of FDM and doesn't look like an SLS part. I think it might be a typo but it doesn't really matter. The Strong and Flexbile is far too inaccurate for the internal features I mentioned and the Detailed Plastic is borderline at best. Either process is ok for the external dimensions, & lock.

Shapeways is great for parts that don't require high accuracy or delicate internal features.

I agree that there needs to be simplified internal structure and that DIY connectors won't have the same fit and quality as the OEM versions. However, shapeways is being really conservative with their numbers. Their WSF is nylon 12 / PA2200 which doesn't melt until 340F. It doesn't appreciably soften until around 200F and it is a thermoplastic so it will stay stable through heat cycling.

Having a connector that is missing some internal springs is a lot better than sliding open pins into a connector and then wrapping it all in electrical tape.

Interesting point on the temperature, glad to know they are understating the value though I believe their quoted parameter is where the properties start to degrade, not actual melting temperature. Weakening isn't just temperature as the Nylon will absorb moisture and without any glass fiber reinforcement will embrittle with temperature and age. Either way I'll stick with it being unsuitable for long term use. I agree the material properties will probably be fine for the intended DIY usage here, just not something I would ever sell to someone.

As far as the housing, it doesn't make sense to me. It is a bunch of effort you don't need to spend, unless the effort is just a practice / fun endeavor.

Option 1 - Individual terminals in adhesive lined headshrink. Wrap some plastic from a student folder around it with tape, spray release agent and drop some RTV in for mechanical retention and sealing. Remove plastic and tape wrapping once hardened.

Option 2 - Get an alternate connector that accepts the same terminals, then use it's mate with a short wire length and the proper connector on the other end to adapt to your MAF of choice. This is far simpler and less time consuming. In this case, this is what I recommend and is easily achieved.

Option 3 - get about 2000 people together who want to pay a lot for this part and low volume injection mold it properly.

Either way, good luck!

Edit: Ooops, there was another page of comments. Nevermind. :-)

----------------------


I'd love to see how they work in real life - breakable? Smooth enough? My (a few years back) experience was that 3D printed stuff wouldn't be up to that job - but if you've made one I'd love to see how it turns out....

CONFIRMED.

1. the GOOD. the VVT plug connector from an old Toyota Lexus fits the VVT connector on 2001-2005 VVT engines. They also come with a ~rubber shield~ to protect the plug connector from engine heat.

2. the BAD. most plug connectors of this type you'll find in the junkyard will brake the locking tab after you remove it from the sensor, must find another source but at least i gave you a lead.

Or use the evap canister connector for the VVTeez. It's either the yellow or orange one. I forgot.

You can already buy this connector new. I have.

I don't have time to read the whole thread, where?

thank you Leafy I am going to order the VVT and TPS pigtails as both in my car are missing the locking tab, for reference here is a link with all the miata connector components available on that website
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

This thread is awesome. Thanks Leafy and Abe [and everyone else that contributed]. Eastern Beaver hopefully rocks too, just placed an order.

They just sometimes take a bit of time, the whole shipping from Japan thing.

Ok I figured as much. Their site says 10-ish days, plus from their picture it looks like they're working out of their dining room, so I'm thinking <2 weeks and I'm a happy customer. It's all good because I'm not tearing the car apart for another month-ish.

fwiw- Looks like RX8 Mazda3 Mazda5 and Mazda6 MAF meters have the same connection. That might increase the possibility that somebody has created the connector as part of a kit for modification. :dunno: IF not, this 3/5/6/8 unit certainly lends itself to salvage/modification for alternate use better than the Miata unit. And they're a lot cheaper used/new.
95 Miata MAF (top) Mazda 3/5/6/x8 MAF (below)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...2&d=1411753363

To add to the spreadsheet:

you can find the alternator connector at advanced autosports (Replacement Alternator Plug [029-110-44001] - $13.95 : Advanced Autosports, Miata Race Parts, Spec Miata and TRANS AM Race Car Sales, Service, Build & Rentals Support in Midwest). It comes with a pigtail, but it's not hard to pull apart the connector.

Are you on the list? PM me your gmail-account email and I'll add you on the list and you can edit doc. :-)