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I do not have the knowledge of printing and the language barrier doesn't make things easy to understand... (yes, i'm french!)
My question is, does a charitable soul with good knowledge of this intake could make this 3d intake for me? I could buy this piece!
You would be better to look around your local area for somebody with a 3d printer to do it for you, often there are businesses that offer this service, or community run groups that may offer it.
The community ones are usually called "Maker spaces" or "hacker spaces" in English speaking countries, not sure what the French equivalent would be, but those should at least provide you with a starting point.
The Thingiverse link does not work; nevertheless I *think* I have the same file on my PC. If it is an STL file, the print place should be able to print it. You just need to specify the material (or the operating conditions) to them.
PLA is about the worst choice and shouldn't be priced higher than the ABS. Also, those prices are way too high. You could get a ultem print off of a stratasys machine for that much.
My ASA print from 3DHubs was done by SOC3D for $97. It's still looking great over a year and a half later.
Originally Posted by asmasm
PLA is about the worst choice and shouldn't be priced higher than the ABS. Also, those prices are way too high. You could get a ultem print off of a stratasys machine for that much.
One day i hope to sneak in an ultem print off our work's Stratasys printer, but its usually busy with real jobs.
I just finish to print it in PETG (easy, cheap and resist until 110C). that's just perfect, piece is strong and flexible so I don't care about vibrations.
i m going to use huvc tape to avoid high temperature and go to the infinite and beyond.
Since this thread is a bit old, it appears that the choice of printing materials has exploded. Looking at Xometry, for example, I could do:
Nylon 12 SLS $62 (HDT 86*C)
PC-ABS $145 (HDT 110*C)
ABS-M30 for 133 (HDT ~88*C)
Instead of the blingy (but awesome) acetone bath for the finish/seal, I expect to just coat w/ thermal tape, as andym did. Should the Nylon 12 be okay?
Okay...Xometry just replied (I ordered the polycarbonate version yesterday) that
Thank you for your order #23AD2-15000. Looking over the file submitted for your part, we have found that the wall thickness is below our minimum recommended wall thickness for FDM. These walls will not resolve or are at a high risk of breaking if printed. In order for these features to resolve in FDM, we recommend a wall thickness of no less than 1.5mm.
Specifically, I ordered the model file Intake_1_2.STL using PC with solid infill using FDM. Should I use a different process? Material? Just tell them to send it? Anyone?
Last edited by Matthew Roberts; 06-23-2020 at 04:55 PM.
Reason: ABS->Polycarbonate
I would assume so, although it seems right on the edge for temperature resistance. Formlabs is coming out with an SLS printer soon and they're advertising their Nylon 12 to be rated for 154C at 0.45mPa. If only it were out now and sites like Xometry or 3Dhubs had them.
Side note, my plan for if/when I make this is to FDM print a form out of
. PVA is dissolvable, so I should be able to print a form, wrap it in carbon fiber, then dissolve the form out to make a carbon intake. Is there a reason this hasn't been done before besides maybe cost?
I had my intake printed through a place called "MakeXYZ". These are the settings I used. I was not happy with the results. It was very flimsy. I should probably have used more infill, but I'm not sure that was really the problem. The walls are very, very thin. It didn't play nice with my Koyo radiator, so I'm not using it.
You said you ordered an ABS version, but then you say you ordered it in PC?
I had my intake printed through a place called "MakeXYZ". These are the settings I used. I was not happy with the results. It was very flimsy. I should probably have used more infill, but I'm not sure that was really the problem. The walls are very, very thin. It didn't play nice with my Koyo radiator, so I'm not using it.
You said you ordered an ABS version, but then you say you ordered it in PC?
I mistyped (corrected now). I ordered it in polycarbonate, based on later reads of the above thread.
I had my intake printed through a place called "MakeXYZ". These are the settings I used. I was not happy with the results. It was very flimsy. I should probably have used more infill, but I'm not sure that was really the problem. The walls are very, very thin. It didn't play nice with my Koyo radiator, so I'm not using it.
You said you ordered an ABS version, but then you say you ordered it in PC?
Howmany perimeters? Thats the big determiner of strength. Generally anything over 15% infill is just for making the top layers look nice and if you wanted it stronger per lb of filament you should use more perimeters.
I was reading through this thread today and got inspired to do something while I'm waiting on my Kraken kit to get here. I have a bunch of ebay intake piping laying around I won't be using, so I did a slightly more DIY version.
Other than the moronic location of the IAT sensor (I accidentally drilled and tapped the wrong pipe) it works like a charm. Temperatures were ambient while driving and around 7-10 degrees higher while at lights/stop signs/etc. Drivability felt the same, and logs didn't show anything out of the ordinary. It also blocks a little more air to the radiator so the car runs around 190* instead of ~186*. Win.
07-31-2019, 08:56 PM
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