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Old 09-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #21
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Thank you for posting the relevant dyno plot of a 6758 on a miata.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:57 PM   #22
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You are getting old.

Details on your friend's car?
Fully built 94 ramhorn mani godspeed 3076 @27+psi e85 all supporting mods.
It looks like dogshit: primered black, ugly wheels, no accessories, etc. So everyone (although pretty much everyone knows by now) kept thinking its a slow POS. He hit 4xxxwhp on the dyno before the clutch slipped so its well into the 400's possibly 500 even. He's on here but doesn't post much at all.
Go on youtube and go on TheBayAreaRacing channel. Look up "turbo miata". Should be a couple vids of it.
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:25 PM   #23
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Thank you for posting the relevant dyno plot of a 6758 on a miata.
Relevant as in posting evidence and answering the OP's question about the T2 .64 a/r being a choke point(which it clearly isn't), then yes. I consider that relevant.

Dumb ***.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:54 PM   #24
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When you guys are talking about 400rwhp Miatas, do you mean track prepped? Like stripped and caged or a full boat with ac and ****?
I mean a 400 hp Miata is a pretty insane ride.. Am I wrong?
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:11 PM   #25
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/\ completely agree...Its very fast.
And according to OP's post its a street car
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:32 PM   #26
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This thread is one of the worst I've seen on this forum in a very long time.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:49 PM   #27
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This thread is one of the worst I've seen on this forum in a very long time.
lots of bickering
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:43 PM   #28
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I don't think the walboro 255 will be enough. It wasn't enough for me. Yes you want 1000CC injectors. If you're going to drive around on the street a lot, I would recommend a VVT head. If you have $800 to spare, I recommend cams. Cams + valve springs = power to 9000RPM. I recommend sticking with the stock intake manifold and upgrading only if you need to. My 99 manifold is totally gutted and holds power to 8000RPM. Sav's blox manifold conversion is a cheap proven option too.

Last thing. I will tell you that I am now having to redo my turbo setup for the third time because I underanticipated how much power I wanted. Plan to go BIG and it will only cost you a little more money up front vs. having to repurchase everything repeatedly. I will also point out that 400hp is slower than a lot of factory cars nowadays... Do you want to lose to something with a window sticker on it?
So I'll add fuel system to the list for the big power numbers, And 1000cc injectors.

The car will be street driven but I have no intention of going VVT I dont mind the lag and not reaching full boost till 4-4500. Should make traction easier and less det like sav was talking about.

Upgraded Valve springs are on my list, But I cant find a place making cams for the BP4W head right now so those will have to be custom ground and i`ll worry about those after I get the car going.

As for the redoing the turbo set up, I want to do it once and have fun and leave some head way, I didnt think much about this when I made my orignal post on the fly the otherday.

That is why I liked the idea of the Absurdflow mani and DP with a Tial housing and garrett turbo, The GT35X with the Tial exhaust housing looks like it should give me full boost by around 4k and have enough room to make 500+ whp. That if if I ever want to do that much.

Yes the garret might not be the best turbo out there but it has a proven track record and thats why I like it.

The Borgwaner turbos look nice and would probably give better spool but is there really any other upsides ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TURNS101 View Post
When you guys are talking about 400rwhp Miatas, do you mean track prepped? Like stripped and caged or a full boat with ac and ****?
I mean a 400 hp Miata is a pretty insane ride.. Am I wrong?
My car is a street car but it might as well be a track car, last time I weighed it it came in a 2050lbs with 3/4 tank of gas. Now im only 135lbs so the car will probably be 2200lbs with 400whp that to me is an insanly fast street car.


As for wrenching on the car constantly, I know stuff will break its bound to happen but what I can not stand is if I spend 4-5k on turbo stuff to be fighting with exhaust leaks. That was the big thing of going Vband for me is its never going to break.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:44 PM   #29
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And seriously when it comes to the arguing lets not do that in my thread i`m looking for real feedback on my goals and plans with this motor so I dont go and spend 10k on stuff then to forget one small thing that ruins all of it.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:02 PM   #30
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And seriously when it comes to the arguing lets not do that in my thread i`m looking for real feedback on my goals and plans with this motor so I dont go and spend 10k on stuff then to forget one small thing that ruins all of it.
OK then build for bigger power than your goal and you will be happy

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/\ completely agree...Its very fast.
And according to OP's post its a street car
Not fast enough.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:43 PM   #31
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There is no way in hell you're going to see full boost from a GTX35R by 4000rpm. Not a damn chance. JayL's car has VVT and a 3076R and he can't do it - no way you're going to do it with a full frame larger and no VVT. https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....&postcount=116

I think some of the advice you've gotten here is really terrible and misleading. You're going to build the car and be really disappointed in the driveability if you go too big on the turbo. I don't want to bicker, but that's my opinion, and I have a lot of experience with turbos on these cars.

Call/email me if you'd like - I can get a better idea of what you're looking for and suggest something that will do the job. I can even sell you the turbo
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:56 PM   #32
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Don't ask Min when it comes to a fuel system...he enough pump for 800-1000 whp

255 is plenty of pump for 400 whp on pump gas, I broke 400 whp with a 255 and 750 CC injectors on 93 with a lot of room left running 43 psi base pressure. I broke 400 whp at a little over 16-17 psi on a 5857. I wouldn't suggest GT series anything with better stuff out there. IE PTE CEA Wheels, GTX, EFR series etc.

It seems like you're wasting money on some silly things for a street car personally. FM pistons are a rip off, and why would you spend 800 bucks on those pistons and get junk Eagle rods? I am offended that you mentioned 18psi when it comes to a 400 whp Miata.

400 whp isn't fast...sorry gays why are you set on that number?
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
There is no way in hell you're going to see full boost from a GTX35R by 4000rpm. Not a damn chance. JayL's car has VVT and a 3076R and he can't do it - no way you're going to do it with a full frame larger and no VVT. https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....&postcount=116

I think some of the advice you've gotten here is really terrible and misleading. You're going to build the car and be really disappointed in the driveability if you go too big on the turbo. I don't want to bicker, but that's my opinion, and I have a lot of experience with turbos on these cars.

Call/email me if you'd like - I can get a better idea of what you're looking for and suggest something that will do the job. I can even sell you the turbo
My memory was off from this setup http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=307213

Looks to be full boost by 5k which is alittle later then I want.

I had planned on emailing you about the turbo stuff as Tim(is my memory right?) from absurdflow said you might have a better set up for me. But i`m not going to be ordering turbo stuff till after I get my tax return. But im picking up the Eagle rods, and ARP studs for $250 so that has motivated me to do my motor build quicker.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:03 PM   #34
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Don't ask Min when it comes to a fuel system...he enough pump for 800-1000 whp

255 is plenty of pump for 400 whp on pump gas, I broke 400 whp with a 255 and 750 CC injectors on 93 with a lot of room left running 43 psi base pressure. I broke 400 whp at a little over 16-17 psi on a 5857. I wouldn't suggest GT series anything with better stuff out there. IE PTE CEA Wheels, GTX, EFR series etc.

It seems like you're wasting money on some silly things for a street car personally. FM pistons are a rip off, and why would you spend 800 bucks on those pistons and get junk Eagle rods? I am offended that you mentioned 18psi when it comes to a 400 whp Miata.

400 whp isn't fast...sorry gays why are you set on that number?

Do you have a link to you build or a dyno sheet ? those kind of numbers are right what I was looking for, but at alot lower boost level then I was thinking.

How are the FM pistons a rip off ? your the only one I know of to make that statement, along with the eagle rods many many people have used them with good results ?
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:13 PM   #35
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He made a dyno pull, never posted any videos of his car, call everyone a "hater" when people questioned it, and now is throwing tens of thousands of dollars into his car that's not done yet.

That means = Internet God of all things high powered miata
Offended? **** you. Stop by our shop and see how many 400whp cars we've built.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:20 PM   #36
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He made a dyno pull, never posted any videos of his car, call everyone a "hater" when people questioned it, and now is throwing tens of thousands of dollars into his car that's not done yet.

That means = Internet God of all things high powered miata
Offended? **** you. Stop by our shop and see how many 400whp cars we've built.
I don't need videos to prove my car, call the shop. Doubting a world known shop is beyond me. Call them and ask about my car.

Building a 400 whp car is easy. Sorry bby
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:09 PM   #37
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I had planned on emailing you about the turbo stuff as Tim(is my memory right?) from absurdflow said you might have a better set up for me.
Andrew is highly recommended. The guys at TSE are very knowledgeable and will get you on the right track. Same with ABSURDflow as well, awesome stuff. Don't forget to check out Abe @ ARtech! He does excellent work, too.

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How are the FM pistons a rip off ? your the only one I know of to make that statement, along with the eagle rods many many people have used them with good results ?
The FM pistons are not a fan favorite here, mostly because you can get pistons that work just as well for nearly half the cost. Wiseco and Supertech have off the shelf units that will handle the power you want and more.

As far as the rods go, most "cheap" H-beams like eagle, M-tuned, etc... are generally considered to be the same. However, they don't appear to be junk at all. I don't recall ever hearing about any one having a machining issue, or more importantly, breaking one due to over powering them on a miata motor. They hold up just fine for people who are looking for 400-500whp.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:36 PM   #38
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Do you have a link to you build or a dyno sheet ? those kind of numbers are right what I was looking for, but at alot lower boost level then I was thinking.
Here are his results:

https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-timesheets-21/what-youve-been-waiting-results-inside-52669/

My 2871R makes more power from idle to 6000rpm. Not to pick on Jason, but he is a perfect example of going way too big, not understanding the consequences, and ending up with a dyno queen car.

When TSE builds a 300whp or 400whp car, we don't build a dyno queen. I can't stand dyno queen cars. They are great for the purposes of internet dick-waving, but in the real world my 350whp car will be faster than a dyno-queen 425whp car. My car makes 295wtq, but it also makes 90% of peak torque from 4000rpm to 7000rpm - big power doesn't get more usable than that.

Last edited by Savington; 09-22-2011 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:52 PM   #39
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6000-8000 is 2,000 RPM of power band...which is 25% of a power band. Not about being a dyno queen...I use my car for highway pulls etc. a street car, not road racing. Straight line on the highway I would kill you. Anyway, with my new set up I bet I move my power band to the left a good 500-1,000 RPM and add another 1,000 RPM to my rev limit with about 200 whp more.


Also, I made at LEAST 50 whp more then you at the same/near same boost level while you where on a better fuel and more displacement. It shows whose set up is more efficient.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:07 AM   #40
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Race gas? E85...
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