Air/Oil Separator Filling Up Too Fast
08-27-2018, 03:05 PM
#62
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I have tried a few things, nothing I've been 100% happy with. IIRC there is a correlation between the velocity of the escaping gases and the ability for those gases to hold oil in suspension (the faster the airflow, the more oil comes out). Since the pressure should be fairly constant at WOT, increasing the orifices should reduce the velocity and help that oil fall out of suspension, but I suspect there's more at play than just that, based on the differences I've seen between 94-00 and 01-05s.
I think my current best practice is to open up the passage between the center and left baffles, run a slightly larger hose (-8 or -10) to a Radium AOS, then drain it back to the pan through a large check valve. The Radium AOS should do a good enough job that you shouldn't need to worry about routing the vacuum-side hose back to the turbo intake (via venturi), which I want to do to reduce the blowby smell at WOT (it's, um, substantial at 400whp).
I think my current best practice is to open up the passage between the center and left baffles, run a slightly larger hose (-8 or -10) to a Radium AOS, then drain it back to the pan through a large check valve. The Radium AOS should do a good enough job that you shouldn't need to worry about routing the vacuum-side hose back to the turbo intake (via venturi), which I want to do to reduce the blowby smell at WOT (it's, um, substantial at 400whp).
This is what Im gathering after many hours of tracking down good intel. I trust your judgement here.
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08-27-2018, 04:30 PM
#63
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Yes, I just drilled out the first hole (from that center passage to driver side passage) to a much larger size, then did it again with another hole next to it. Was pretty easy to do with just a drill and a steady hand. Otherwise that pathway is severely restricted.
Then I pulled the small port (drivers side) and replaced with the largest NPT (I think I fit 3/8" NPT, don't quote me) and used a 3/8" NPT to -10an fitting.
You may want to plug that passenger side port, or, if you are pushing a ton of air past your rings, go ahead and use that port to feed into the same oil/air filter and port to air or back into your oil pan (your choice).
I agree with Sav on this one. Bigger will always be better. Don't have super high pressure (oily) gases in small diameter hoses for this.
Then I pulled the small port (drivers side) and replaced with the largest NPT (I think I fit 3/8" NPT, don't quote me) and used a 3/8" NPT to -10an fitting.
You may want to plug that passenger side port, or, if you are pushing a ton of air past your rings, go ahead and use that port to feed into the same oil/air filter and port to air or back into your oil pan (your choice).
I agree with Sav on this one. Bigger will always be better. Don't have super high pressure (oily) gases in small diameter hoses for this.
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08-29-2018, 06:46 PM
#64
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I drilled out the drivers side so I could JB weld in an almost 1/2" or 12.4mm to be more exact ID brass push on fitting. The original ID was 7.2mm so it will flow quite a bit more. I forget my cross sectional flow math but it's 75% bigger by width. Also drilled out the existing baffle orifice.
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10-09-2018, 01:39 PM
#65
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Engine is running stronger than evernow that it's back together but I haven't done a recent compression test.
When I am testing feeling the new enlarged single breather port I can feel the air pulsing and a good amount coming out at a fast warmup idle
No oil so far just moist warm air that accumulates clear water.
I've never felt valve cover ventilation so I have no reference to go by.
What is normal for the amount of air volume to vent?
When I am testing feeling the new enlarged single breather port I can feel the air pulsing and a good amount coming out at a fast warmup idle
No oil so far just moist warm air that accumulates clear water.
I've never felt valve cover ventilation so I have no reference to go by.
What is normal for the amount of air volume to vent?
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