Another oil catch can thread
 

So I'm getting quite a bit of oil from my breather and pcv ports. Both are plumbed to a catch can and then vented to atmosphere. What I plan to do is drill and tap the valve cover on both sides for -10 an fitting and plumb them both to a catch can with -10 an lines.

http://www.performanceparts4less.com...partid=4167223


What say you?
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me says you is a boost addict....congrats, lol

Thats how mine is, except the nipple on the drivers side of the valve cover I just have capped off.

Attachment 198070

Where does the lower line on your catch can go?
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It goes to a nipple on the side of the block right above the oil pan. I'm not sure if its a return or if its for crank case vapors as well...Thats how it was when I bought the car so thats how I left it :giggle:

Ahh yes, normally that nipple just has a cap on it. Not sure what's it's for.
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It's for the crappy greddy oil return, duh.

Dunno why I hadn't thought of that, great way to keep the catch can from over flowing Cspence. No check valves anywhere?

CSpence, is that a diy can? I can't fnd one with 2 fittings for less than an arm and a leg.
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Yea thats a home brew job....

No check valves...I dont think it'd really be necessary there. I mean its kinda dual purpose I guess...drain for the catch can if its full / venting crank case vapors. If there was a check valve one of the two would be stopped...

This one will only run you an arm, so you can keep your leg at least!
I'm running the translucent version, so I can keep an eye on fill level. So far, the only liquid that it's seen is some condensation.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JZP-605-325-01/

Isn't that kinda small? And the inlets are only 1/4".
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Ive got the version with the 3/8 inlets.

If I can fill this tank up between checks, something is seriously wrong. I've gotten a total 2 tablespoons of condensation out of it since installing.

Attachment 198041
Attachment 198042

this is how i did mine, just two -10 lines to a moroso can. it would be nice if we had some threaded ports from the block to vent aswell. dont know how well its gonna work untill i run the motor. i have no doubt it will be fine as this is how just about every other for of racing vents there stuff

ctdrftna, does that still create a bad smell?

You have some bangin-hot braided lines there. Makes mine look silly in comparison. :bigtu:

That's how MikeF85 had his, and it's how mine will be.

I ended up just ordering this and will just tap the holes for larger fittings.
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I Have a Protege Valve cover should I tap it where the baffles are or can I just drill and tap anywhere? Also is there any advantage of using 10an over 8an?

I would tap the baffles. That way you don't suck up to much oil. I would do -10

From my interactions with 323GTX group and the Europe and Australia members the early B6T cars in those countries came stock with a catch can and the return was to that nipple on the side of the block. Probably because of specific evaporation emission standards most countries didn’t get that system installed I’m guessing. The nipple was still left on the block however along with turbo oil and water feeds that were cap plugged.

My experience having put a return into the pan it was a disaster. Hard cornering or braking would slosh oil up to the return and pressure pulses would pump oil up and out the breather. I think the Mazda speed catch can system actually has the return submerged at the bottom of the pan. Maybe if it stays below the oil level it won’t pump up the return tube.

Mine currently just has the hoses from the valve cover to the catch can with no return. It fills up with condensation especially warming up on cold humid mornings.

I would still like to figure out how to vent the lower crank case to the catch can/breather without it spewing on me during hard cornering or braking.

Bob