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Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 568588)
Mine currently just has the hoses from the valve cover to the catch can with no return. It fills up with condensation especially warming up on cold humid mornings.
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 568588)
I would still like to figure out how to vent the lower crank case to the catch can/breather without it spewing on me during hard cornering or braking.
Bob __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 568588)
My experience having put a return into the pan it was a disaster. Hard cornering or braking would slosh oil up to the return and pressure pulses would pump oil up and out the breather.
Bob Cspence, does that not happen on your car? Maybe it wouldn't be a problem on a car that dosen't see the track? __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Well another solution would be to run a vaccum pump
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Im running a Greddy Catch, I have a b6t v/c, im going to try using the port in the vc near the tb and drain into the greddy drain location, that big plug by the alternator.
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Brain's examples are the best VTA catch can method, for pretty much all cars. You can port the brether like you did Phil, but the issue is that the actual holes drilled in the adjoining "pockets" in the vc baffles are all pretty small. And there isn't enough meat to make them much bigger.
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I already have both the pcv port and breather port drilled out to 5/8" fittings. Which is = to -10an. Those are hooked up to a large catch can with a 2" breather. So that should be large enough for up top. I think I'm also going to run a hose from the nipple on the side of the block below the alt to my smaller catch can and let that vent to atmosphere. This should allow the crank case to breathe.
Thoughts? __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 568929)
I already have both the pcv port and breather port drilled out to 5/8" fittings. Which is = to -10an. Those are hooked up to a large catch can with a 2" breather. So that should be large enough for up top. I think I'm also going to run a hose from the nipple on the side of the block below the alt to my smaller catch can and let that vent to atmosphere. This should allow the crank case to breathe.
Thoughts? |
You didn't connect with what I said I guess. The vented air in the head enters the vc through the baffles at the center of the VC. It then travels through a series of drilled holes to the actual external ports. The drilled holes are only like MAYBE 1/8". No where near -10AN. If you modded the VC like they big boost honda boys with ports directly exposed to the inside of the head and small baffles to prevent excessive oil suction you would eliminate pretty much all of your issues.
I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the shit in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your shit again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other shit. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything. |
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
(Post 568938)
You didn't connect with what I said I guess. The vented air in the head enters the vc through the baffles at the center of the VC. It then travels through a series of drilled holes to the actual external ports. The drilled holes are only like MAYBE 1/8". No where near -10AN. If you modded the VC like they big boost honda boys with ports directly exposed to the inside of the head and small baffles to prevent excessive oil suction you would eliminate pretty much all of your issues.
I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the shit in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your shit again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other shit. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything. I got you, guess I'll be taking my valve cover back off. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
I don't understand the oil catch can thing. I've just got the driver side port on the valve cover VTA with a filter and the 323GTX PCV valve. Never seen a drop of oil. Am I missing something?
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Ya, you aren't running 26PSI so you aren't getting anywhere near the amount of blowby he is that is pressurizing his crank case.
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Ok, new plan. Neo and I discussed via IM. What I'm going to do is drill a bunch of small holes into the baffle plates on the under side of the valve cover at the opposite ends of the breather ports. That should really allow the head the breathe and not allow excessive oil to escape.
http://www.racecaddy.com/mx5/1-pix-m...over-miata.jpg __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
(Post 568953)
Ya, you aren't running 26PSI so you aren't getting anywhere near the amount of blowby he is that is pressurizing his crank case.
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Originally Posted by thymer
(Post 568950)
I don't understand the oil catch can thing. I've just got the driver side port on the valve cover VTA with a filter and the 323GTX PCV valve. Never seen a drop of oil. Am I missing something?
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
(Post 568953)
Ya, you aren't running 26PSI so you aren't getting anywhere near the amount of blowby he is that is pressurizing his crank case.
__________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 568957)
Ok, new plan. Neo and I discussed via IM. What I'm going to do is drill a bunch of small holes into the baffle plates on the under side of the valve cover at the opposite ends of the breather ports. That should really allow the head the breathe and not allow excessive oil to escape.
http://www.racecaddy.com/mx5/1-pix-m...over-miata.jpg Bob |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 568833)
This is how I currently have mine, my catch can takes several thousand miles before it fills up with enough condensation that it starts to spill out.
Bob |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 568996)
Oil will splash up into those holes and excessive amounts will come out your breather if you do that. Heck it does that even if you forget to put sealant on those plates before you put them back on.
Bob __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 568835)
Cspence, does that not happen on your car? Maybe it wouldn't be a problem on a car that dosen't see the track?
I think the Return spot Cspense is using is much higher than the oil pan it is actually right beside the Oil filter in the block. As far as I can tell this return location was only available as cast in to very early 1.6l blocks and was later removed. I had it in my original 1990 block but not a 1993 and I have seen it in J-spec imported B6t’s but not on all us-spec 323 GTX’s . US spec GTX’s had a pipe cast into the pan that was just capped off. I had a return tapped into the oil pan just under the alternator. It worked fine until taking it to a track that had a 120mph downhill with a braking zone into a second gear corner. This situation resulted in Oil all aver my engine compartment. After discovering how much oil slosh there really is in the pan I am also considering installing an Accusump. Bob |
That's the same port my block has. I'm definitely going to open that up to relieve crank case pressure.
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