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Old 05-19-2012, 09:28 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffon01 View Post
Quick stupid question. I'm still out of a job and I need to fix my blow-by issues, can I get away with blocking off the IM port and placing a filter on the hole in the intake side of the valve cover?
Or just put a filter on both sides
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:38 PM   #162
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Yea that's what I meant. Block port in IM and have filters on both valve cover holes. I currently have only one hole with a filter and the other with the stock pcv system.
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:17 AM   #163
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I thought most people capped the passenger side and run the driver side to a catch can.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:26 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgmorr View Post
I thought most people capped the passenger side and run the driver side to a catch can.
Some people do and it works decently, when I ran like that I was puking out 7 ounces of oil every 100 miles or so.

I am currently waiting on my next VC to get finished. I am putting 3 -10an bungs on it and am planning on running them to 2 separate catch cans. I will post pictures as soon as I get it back from the shop who is doing the welding.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:39 PM   #165
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In for results
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:54 PM   #166
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I saw a car the other day at the track that had the valve cover lines go to a re-purposed canister previously used for the AC, so that the oil had a place to go when pulling g's. the canister would drain the oil back to the oil pan. a linethen connected to a catch can for the vapors. the canisters are almost free at a parts yard so this might be a good, cheaper option instead of running two catch cans. the car was an extremely well developed audi 5cly with a very large turbo.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:05 PM   #167
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$50 BMW M5 separator sliced open:



How cyclone separators work:
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:19 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
In for results
From briefly driving the car around it seemed to have worked. If you check my build thread you can see finished pictures. Unfortunately I no longer have oil pressure so that I can not actually get some time on the setup currently.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:53 AM   #169
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interesting. seems like a good simple solution.

I recently tried to modify a $10 ebay catch can to make it work properly but I ran out of time and had some issues making my copied design work so I decided to buy a new one from a local speed shop with built in baffles to get the job done. I'm thinking about modifying it to delete the air filter and feeding the intake line pressure but I'm not sure if this is worthwhile. thoughts?
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:44 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbundy View Post
Mine was sucking oil out the catch can and making huge clouds of smoke the first time I tried it on the track. A combination of some on off throttle, high G left turn, with hard acceleration off a left hand corner puked lots of liquid oil into the catch can faster than it would drain back.

Solution: eliminated the vent on the intake side that was the stock PCV port and problem dissapeard. Iím just using the valve cover vent that comes out on the exhaust side which is baffled to the center of the valve cover. I also have a vent hose going into the side of the block by the alternator same location as some 1.6l blocks have a capped off port. I also found a PCV valve that fit perfectly to work as a check valve in my return hose to the very bottom of the pan.

What I learned is the baffleing for the PCV port in the valve cover dosn't work. oil must pool up in the back right corner of the valve train where the stock baffling has its inlet on that side.

Bob
Hi bob, just to clarify, you haven't got a line going from the inlet manifold to the valve cover - you've just capped both?

I'm guessing the vent line from the block and exhaust side valve cover both go to a catch can which is vented to atmosphere?

Cheers
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:51 PM   #171
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Bring this thread back as I'm in the process of building my motor now. It has been discussed about how to vent the gasses from the block under boost. I was looking at the vent hole that is raised and located at the back on the passenger side. It appears that port and the one ahead of it connect together along the side of the block right where the BP lettering is and then goes down to a very large casting hole, you can see it when you look inside the block. Has anybody drilled a block vent hole there? It's high enough in the block that G-forces on the oil wouldn't be a factor there. 3/8" NPT with a 90 pointing up would ensure any stray oil would drain back. Has anybody else thought of this? Downside?




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Old 11-07-2012, 11:17 PM   #172
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So on the track at what WHP level and boost/turbo size is everyone seeing these issue's? 250whp? 300? 350? Im not going for crazy power on my build, 250 to 275whp tops. Im just not trying to over build with some over the top case breather, pan return,... setup. Also its a fresh 84mm 9:1 2554 for now later either 2860 or 2871. Also yes track use with the sticky shoe's!
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:49 AM   #173
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I'm at 260rwhp or something and do need the catch can
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:42 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VW_Morrell View Post
So on the track at what WHP level and boost/turbo size is everyone seeing these issue's? 250whp? 300? 350? Im not going for crazy power on my build, 250 to 275whp tops. Im just not trying to over build with some over the top case breather, pan return,... setup. Also its a fresh 84mm 9:1 2554 for now later either 2860 or 2871. Also yes track use with the sticky shoe's!

Just VTA your breather and drill out and VTA your PCV. Done
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:49 AM   #175
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This blow-by is probably normal with forged pistons and cold engine, right?


I don't know what they are putting to E85 bioethanol here. That 0.5 liters in catch can is how much I get in there in one week. It’s some kind of alcohol / water / oil mix. It burns with blue flame
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:32 AM   #176
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How do you have the lines to your catch can run? Are they stock sized lines?
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:37 AM   #177
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
How do you have the lines to your catch can run? Are they stock sized lines?
No. 12mm ID both sides of the valve cover
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:25 AM   #178
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Could you running a little too rich? Unburnt fuel in the crankcase? Stuck Injector?
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:42 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyhobyz View Post
Could you running a little too rich? Unburnt fuel in the crankcase? Stuck Injector?
AFR's are in 12:1 range. Although it’s an E85 AFR so I’m using it a lot. My 800cc injectors run close 90% DC

As I’m not the only one my area who has to empty catch-can once a week I'm sure it has to do something with the special blend E85 that we use here (a.k.a. RE85). More info here: In English - St1's Sustainable Bioethanol
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:55 AM   #180
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Ok, I've searched n00b search! (I even like searching.) But here's a question.

I'm getting what seems to be boost leaking through the PCV, pressurizing the crankcase and then oil leaks out from all over the place on the block. Only happens on track - I don't WOT on the street (scared of civilians).

I had reduced this a lot before with a 323GTX PCV but now it's back. New wastegate actuator is at 8 psi or so, I think the old one maybe was a tick lower.

I'm tired of this and just want it to go away. I'm planning to plumb in a proper check valve (I'll leave the PCV in there to make the car look as CA compliant as possible in case of any roadside inspections). Also doing a catch can, but was planning closed loop on that rather than vent through a breather (but I'll do that if I can't fix this crankcase pressure otherwise).

Question is... exactly what kind of check valve should I get and where do I get it?
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