ARP Main stud install - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-03-2013, 03:18 PM   #1
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
MartinezA92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 1,702
Total Cats: 28
Default ARP Main stud install

The instructions that come with the studs say to hand tighten the studs into the block, and then it says to torque the nuts to spec. Am I not supposed to torque the studs into the block to a certain torque spec? It has a hole for a hex key on one side of the stud so I'm assuming that it should be tightened to xx ft lbs, but figured I'd ask. I'm just paranoid that the studs would somehow loosen out of the block.

Opinions/suggestions?
MartinezA92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 03:24 PM   #2
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

I torqued mine into the block using the hex head socket. I think I used a torque spec given by Sav or something else with more knowledge than me in the lengthy head stud torque thread.

Working well so far.
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 03:29 PM   #3
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
MartinezA92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 1,702
Total Cats: 28
Default

Yea I emailed him but seems like hes out of the office for a few days and I needed to get this together today. You don't happen to remember that spec I assume?
MartinezA92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 03:39 PM   #4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
BogusSVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pensacola Fla.
Posts: 590
Total Cats: 191
Default

It is like 5-10 ft/lbs

once the caps are installed, and the washer and nuts installed, then torqued to spec they will not just fall out the block.

The same tourque applied to the nut and stud, is applied to the thread engagement of the stud threads and the threads in the block.

Big thing is to make sure the bolt holes and threads are clean.
BogusSVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 03:44 PM   #5
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
MartinezA92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 1,702
Total Cats: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BogusSVO View Post
It is like 5-10 ft/lbs

once the caps are installed, and the washer and nuts installed, then torqued to spec they will not just fall out the block.

The same tourque applied to the nut and stud, is applied to the thread engagement of the stud threads and the threads in the block.

Big thing is to make sure the bolt holes and threads are clean.
Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks a lot.
MartinezA92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 03:50 PM   #6
Senior Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 1,404
Total Cats: 263
Default

Attached Thumbnails
ARP Main stud install-arp_studs.jpg  

Last edited by 99mx5; 01-03-2013 at 04:09 PM. Reason: Reading comprehension fail, then success
99mx5 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 03:59 PM   #7
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 228
Total Cats: 5
Default

hmmmmmm
Alta_Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 04:44 PM   #8
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,093
Total Cats: 90
Default

Note, both of those instructions note to install studs hand tight only. Studs should NOT bottom out in the hole/threads, ever, including the stud tightening further into the hole unintentionally when torquing the nut.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #9
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 228
Total Cats: 5
Default

I like that answer much better.

I sat in a seminar at PRI a few years back, and listened to Smoky say: "in no way should the end of the stud hit the bottom of the hole."

When the stud is bottomed out, the stud will **** over to one side, when you tighten the nut, you just bent the stud, side loaded the nut, and tried to move the device you are trying to clamp.
Alta_Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 05:13 PM   #10
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
MartinezA92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 1,702
Total Cats: 28
Default

So I'm supposed to leave the stud loose in its hole and tighten the nut with a loose stud? I have a copy of those instructions that came with the studs, but I think "handtight" is a little vague for such a critical component.
MartinezA92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 05:39 PM   #11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
BogusSVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pensacola Fla.
Posts: 590
Total Cats: 191
Default

ARP-bolts.com | ARP Quick Catalog Viewer

Page 49

Hand tight is all you need.

The allen socket on the top of the stud is for removing them.
BogusSVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 06:01 PM   #12
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
MartinezA92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 1,702
Total Cats: 28
Default

Well then. Handtightened the studs with my fingers, used the lube provided, and torqued the nuts to 60 ftlbs. I guess I'll find out if I did it wrong when my crank goes through the oil pan.
MartinezA92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:18 AM   #13
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brownsburg,IN
Posts: 800
Total Cats: 58
Default

My machine shop reccomended line booring the mains when going to APR studs, any one heard their machinist reccomend that?
HHammerly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:19 AM   #14
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Savington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 14,372
Total Cats: 1,333
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HHammerly View Post
My machine shop reccomended line booring the mains when going to APR studs, any one heard their machinist reccomend that?
It's a good idea. We do it.
Savington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 01:22 AM   #15
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Attached Thumbnails
ARP Main stud install-cwkcj.gif  
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 11:05 AM   #16
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Fredericton, NB
Posts: 1,187
Total Cats: 4
Default

I would like to add that a re-torque after a couple heat cycles is good added measure for brand new ARP head studs as well.

Loosen each stud a quarter to an eighth of a turn and re-torque one at a time in proper sequence (when engine has cooled of course).

This could be argued as not needed, but gives me added confidence.
Preluding is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 11:42 AM   #17
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,110
Total Cats: 518
Default

I've been told that with rod studs, as you want to torque to seat the spline in the rod, then release and torque again a final time.

However for head studs, you're not seating a spline, and with any torque spec, you're turning the fastener into a spring to hold itself in place.

Martinez, remember that although you're twisting the nut onto the stud, you're technically applying an upwards force on the block threads, so unless you there's some crap on your threads or they're damaged, it shouldn't tighten the studs into the block any more.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 06:08 PM   #18
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Canton, Ga
Posts: 1,707
Total Cats: 19
Default

My machinist did not thing boring or honing the mains was nessesary after going with studs. After 25k miles and 6 years without failure I guess I agree with him.
Stealth97 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 59 12-15-2017 09:00 PM
Another Cast Manifold Corky Bell Prefabbed Turbo Kits 18 11-22-2016 10:01 PM
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump $50 lsc224 Miata parts for sale/trade 2 10-01-2015 10:17 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:00 AM.