Bearing Failure During Built Motor Break In - Help Me Understand What I did Wrong
12-15-2020, 06:21 PM
#21
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I'd go back and check the oil pressure gauge. Determining whether the main oil galley was pressurized, or if you don't know whether the main galley was pressurized, will point you in a direction. Just cobble together a fitting to connect it to compressed air. Definitely looks to have lack of oil, which doesn't correlate with the gauge reading max..
If you have the perfect storm of this AND a false high OP reading, ...
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12-16-2020, 12:18 PM
#22
Oil sensor location? If you're running a oil filter relocation kit or external oil cooler then it's possible your lines are backwards like what Gee Emm mentioned. If you're lines are flipped but your oil pressure sensor is on the feed side, it's possible there was oil pressure bit flow was blocked by the oil filter's one way check valve.
What I did before my first start up was remove an oil line to my VVT solenoid and cranked the engine until I saw oil come out. Didn't take more than a few seconds of cranking.
What I did before my first start up was remove an oil line to my VVT solenoid and cranked the engine until I saw oil come out. Didn't take more than a few seconds of cranking.
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12-21-2020, 11:07 AM
#23
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I'd go back and check the oil pressure gauge. Determining whether the main oil galley was pressurized, or if you don't know whether the main galley was pressurized, will point you in a direction. Just cobble together a fitting to connect it to compressed air. Definitely looks to have lack of oil, which doesn't correlate with the gauge reading max.
How do the cam lobes look? If lack of lubrication, I'd expect the lobes to also be chewed up.
Definitely seems like something with the pickup or possibly the new pump wasn't able to self-prime. That would be plausible if the oil pressure sender is not reading correctly. It's possible it took long enough to prime that the assembly lube on the bearings was displaced, and at that point they're all running dry. And the damage is done, and it only took a short amount of time. The pump may have purged itself after that, but the clearances and surface finishes are already dicked. Some guys are pretty OCD about pre-oiling the engine with pressurized oil before first start.
I don't see what thread sealant would do to the gauge reading, unless you really globbed it on and it got in the communication port. I use thread sealant on all my pipe fittings, including sensors.
How do the cam lobes look? If lack of lubrication, I'd expect the lobes to also be chewed up.
Definitely seems like something with the pickup or possibly the new pump wasn't able to self-prime. That would be plausible if the oil pressure sender is not reading correctly. It's possible it took long enough to prime that the assembly lube on the bearings was displaced, and at that point they're all running dry. And the damage is done, and it only took a short amount of time. The pump may have purged itself after that, but the clearances and surface finishes are already dicked. Some guys are pretty OCD about pre-oiling the engine with pressurized oil before first start.
I don't see what thread sealant would do to the gauge reading, unless you really globbed it on and it got in the communication port. I use thread sealant on all my pipe fittings, including sensors.
Cam lobes look OK to me, I don't see any scoring or obvious change in surface finish.
I'm getting an RMA number to send the pump back for inspection.
I have tried to start an engine with crossed oil lines. It was trying to pump oil backwards through the filter, and the one-way restrictor inside the filter, cut OP to a very low value. Immediately obvious on the gauge, so shut down and checked, found problem, fixed, and restarted with good OP.
If you have the perfect storm of this AND a false high OP reading, ...
If you have the perfect storm of this AND a false high OP reading, ...
Oil sensor location? If you're running a oil filter relocation kit or external oil cooler then it's possible your lines are backwards like what Gee Emm mentioned. If you're lines are flipped but your oil pressure sensor is on the feed side, it's possible there was oil pressure bit flow was blocked by the oil filter's one way check valve.
What I did before my first start up was remove an oil line to my VVT solenoid and cranked the engine until I saw oil come out. Didn't take more than a few seconds of cranking.
What I did before my first start up was remove an oil line to my VVT solenoid and cranked the engine until I saw oil come out. Didn't take more than a few seconds of cranking.
Any new motor I get is going to the machine shop anyway - so I think I'm going to have a shop inspect what I have now. Cheapest I can find a BP6D is $1000 or so, because shipping costs are high lately, and then I'd have to send it to a shop anyway. Ironically, I tried avoid farming out any work by drill honing the cylinders. I think this time around I'm just going to do it right the second time, may as well bore it and go with forged piston, in addition to line boring the mains and grinding the crank.
And yeah, next time I'll have both the dash oil pressure sensor hooked up as well as a three wire one for the MS AND a good turbo oil feed bleed procedure.
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12-22-2020, 07:25 PM
#25
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I'd go back and check the oil pressure gauge. Determining whether the main oil galley was pressurized, or if you don't know whether the main galley was pressurized, will point you in a direction. Just cobble together a fitting to connect it to compressed air. Definitely looks to have lack of oil, which doesn't correlate with the gauge reading max.
How do the cam lobes look? If lack of lubrication, I'd expect the lobes to also be chewed up.
Definitely seems like something with the pickup or possibly the new pump wasn't able to self-prime. That would be plausible if the oil pressure sender is not reading correctly. It's possible it took long enough to prime that the assembly lube on the bearings was displaced, and at that point they're all running dry. And the damage is done, and it only took a short amount of time. The pump may have purged itself after that, but the clearances and surface finishes are already dicked. Some guys are pretty OCD about pre-oiling the engine with pressurized oil before first start.
I don't see what thread sealant would do to the gauge reading, unless you really globbed it on and it got in the communication port. I use thread sealant on all my pipe fittings, including sensors.
How do the cam lobes look? If lack of lubrication, I'd expect the lobes to also be chewed up.
Definitely seems like something with the pickup or possibly the new pump wasn't able to self-prime. That would be plausible if the oil pressure sender is not reading correctly. It's possible it took long enough to prime that the assembly lube on the bearings was displaced, and at that point they're all running dry. And the damage is done, and it only took a short amount of time. The pump may have purged itself after that, but the clearances and surface finishes are already dicked. Some guys are pretty OCD about pre-oiling the engine with pressurized oil before first start.
I don't see what thread sealant would do to the gauge reading, unless you really globbed it on and it got in the communication port. I use thread sealant on all my pipe fittings, including sensors.
I test fit the oil filter and sandwich plate without the warmer because I was considered deleting it. Research (here) indicates it doesn't actually cool the oil very well, and the warmer/sammich plate/filter stack interferes with the intake manifold brace, requiring some trimming. Ultimately, I chose to trim the brace and retain the cooler because I saw little downside and, where I live, spring and fall cold startups in the 30-40f range are foreseeably common.
Edit: I bought another BP6D motor from a salvage yard today.
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I'm running skunk2 mani, soooo.
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