Build for 300-350whp maybe more?
#1
Build for 300-350whp maybe more?
I've been running on my stock 94 block and recently cracked the head. While I'm figuring that out, I've been planning a built motor for the eventual day my stock block goes boom, or if I get tired of the weaksauce. I've been doing a lotta reading (hopefully a good amount) on what internals and stuff to get for the build. I've come up with this.
My buddy has a 2002 BP6D that he pulled from a wrecked NB so I'm planning on using that, it ran before they pulled it. I was toying with the idea of using a 1994 block and the 2002 head for cleaner oil lines, but I don't have a 1994 block laying around to build that isn't the one in the car right now, and Emilio at Supermiata recently posted saying that the NB2 blocks have more cylinder thickness (anyone know anything about that?). Any other reason to go with a 94 block? The plan for this car is just to have a streetcar that I can rip and visit the track in the future. I like the idea of keeping the BP and hopefully able to keep the 6 speed with it, but I know this range of power is a grey area. Tranny swaps are kinda out of the question but if I blow a 6 speed I'll start considering one. Ideally, I want the bottom end to be bulletproof, and the headwork is kinda up in the air. The head parts are just kinda thrown in there, not much thought. I'll at least refresh the head. Turbo is undecided at the moment. I've already got a Kraken T25 manifold so my turbo will be limited to that flange style unless I want to go bigger but I know T2s can make the power I want. Maybe EFR? GT28XX? As for pistons I'm leaning towards 8.6, I can find 91 regularly here in Cali, but I got an E85 station 10 minutes from my house. Obviously this list isn't complete, but I hope it looks relatively textbook, I'm not trying to be a pioneer, I just wanna do it right and know that it'll work if built correctly.
For machine work and tolerances (Rough idea):
Planning on boring out to 84mm, I want that 1.9L clout
Ring gap, I'd assume I'd run the Wiseco specs? Around 0.014" and 0.018" for the "high street performance"? Not sure if it'd be street-moderate turbo or the high street performance.
Piston to cylinder wall, whatever Supertech recommends.
Rest of the clearances just be based on the OEM specs?
TLDR: I wanna build a 300+hp VVT motor and swap it into my NA cause I want to, how does this look?
My buddy has a 2002 BP6D that he pulled from a wrecked NB so I'm planning on using that, it ran before they pulled it. I was toying with the idea of using a 1994 block and the 2002 head for cleaner oil lines, but I don't have a 1994 block laying around to build that isn't the one in the car right now, and Emilio at Supermiata recently posted saying that the NB2 blocks have more cylinder thickness (anyone know anything about that?). Any other reason to go with a 94 block? The plan for this car is just to have a streetcar that I can rip and visit the track in the future. I like the idea of keeping the BP and hopefully able to keep the 6 speed with it, but I know this range of power is a grey area. Tranny swaps are kinda out of the question but if I blow a 6 speed I'll start considering one. Ideally, I want the bottom end to be bulletproof, and the headwork is kinda up in the air. The head parts are just kinda thrown in there, not much thought. I'll at least refresh the head. Turbo is undecided at the moment. I've already got a Kraken T25 manifold so my turbo will be limited to that flange style unless I want to go bigger but I know T2s can make the power I want. Maybe EFR? GT28XX? As for pistons I'm leaning towards 8.6, I can find 91 regularly here in Cali, but I got an E85 station 10 minutes from my house. Obviously this list isn't complete, but I hope it looks relatively textbook, I'm not trying to be a pioneer, I just wanna do it right and know that it'll work if built correctly.
For machine work and tolerances (Rough idea):
Planning on boring out to 84mm, I want that 1.9L clout
Ring gap, I'd assume I'd run the Wiseco specs? Around 0.014" and 0.018" for the "high street performance"? Not sure if it'd be street-moderate turbo or the high street performance.
Piston to cylinder wall, whatever Supertech recommends.
Rest of the clearances just be based on the OEM specs?
TLDR: I wanna build a 300+hp VVT motor and swap it into my NA cause I want to, how does this look?
#3
Cpt. Slow
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I think everyone who mentions a horsepower goal needs to mention an RPM goal. You're kind of building for high RPM without the head/cam work to make it worth it. I'd personally save a lot of money on that list and stay at the stock 7000rpm.
I'd skip the ATI damper, motor mounts, valves, valve keepers, and budget more money for the turbo, and you'll want to include manifolds, both exhaust and intake.
I'd skip the ATI damper, motor mounts, valves, valve keepers, and budget more money for the turbo, and you'll want to include manifolds, both exhaust and intake.
#4
I think everyone who mentions a horsepower goal needs to mention an RPM goal. You're kind of building for high RPM without the head/cam work to make it worth it. I'd personally save a lot of money on that list and stay at the stock 7000rpm.
I'd skip the ATI damper, motor mounts, valves, valve keepers, and budget more money for the turbo, and you'll want to include manifolds, both exhaust and intake.
I'd skip the ATI damper, motor mounts, valves, valve keepers, and budget more money for the turbo, and you'll want to include manifolds, both exhaust and intake.
#5
Kinda sorta. For your goals you dont need a built head. However the head does become a limiting factor.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...sequel-100110/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...t-head-102323/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...sequel-100110/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...t-head-102323/
#6
Kinda sorta. For your goals you dont need a built head. However the head does become a limiting factor.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...sequel-100110/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...t-head-102323/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...sequel-100110/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...t-head-102323/
#7
I think everyone who mentions a horsepower goal needs to mention an RPM goal. You're kind of building for high RPM without the head/cam work to make it worth it. I'd personally save a lot of money on that list and stay at the stock 7000rpm.
I'd skip the ATI damper, motor mounts, valves, valve keepers, and budget more money for the turbo, and you'll want to include manifolds, both exhaust and intake.
I'd skip the ATI damper, motor mounts, valves, valve keepers, and budget more money for the turbo, and you'll want to include manifolds, both exhaust and intake.
This piece of advice is paramount. Going crazy with head work makes sense if your intention is to raise your RPM above what is OEM. If you simply want 300 HP It is obtainable on a lot less than you'd think. I just finished my build and got it on the dyno. Finalized @ 318 HP and 261 lbs/ft TQ on a '97 1.8L that i did a full OEM Mazda rebuild on with the addition of forged rods and ARP headstuds. Reconditioned the stock pistons and put new OEM rings on them. China turbo, 1000cc injectors, 340 lp fuel pump, stock ignition, and completely stock head with new valve stem seals as a precautionary measure. E85 will put me in the 330+ hp range im told by the tuners.
#8
This piece of advice is paramount. Going crazy with head work makes sense if your intention is to raise your RPM above what is OEM. If you simply want 300 HP It is obtainable on a lot less than you'd think. I just finished my build and got it on the dyno. Finalized @ 318 HP and 261 lbs/ft TQ on a '97 1.8L that i did a full OEM Mazda rebuild on with the addition of forged rods and ARP headstuds. Reconditioned the stock pistons and put new OEM rings on them. China turbo, 1000cc injectors, 340 lp fuel pump, stock ignition, and completely stock head with new valve stem seals as a precautionary measure. E85 will put me in the 330+ hp range im told by the tuners.
#11
How much power do you see yourself wanting in the long term. 350 can be safe. 400 and more turns into a time bomb on the BP. If you want more than 400 i would look at a K swap and forced induction. You also start to kill parts down the line at those power levels like the transmission.
Good to know, I'll go with those.
#12
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The forged rods and pistons and the supertech doubles keep things from exploding when you miss a shift. Stock rods and pistons can come apart with a serious overrev, and the valves can float open. No bueno.
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