webby459

iTrader: (8)

Kicking around the winter projects. The 1.6 in the car is strong, but probably could use a re-ring. While it's out, I can't justify NOT doing at least forged pistons and h-beams. Worth doing on the mouse motor? Also, is there value in the belfab hp kit, or should I get the parts separate?

I just feel that I can get into price creep with the 1.8. I'll need new mani's, so why not get a v-band built up? And since I'm doing the 1.8, why not the 99 head (VICS control, et al). Plus the cost of the long block, and the time involved in scrounging one out.

I'm thinking I might try a dual tune setup, one set of maps on street gas and 13-15, one set on 100 with like 18 or whatever. I'd probably just run the hundo for autocross and the low boost setup for on the street and on the track for now, till the testicular implant finally clears my hmo and I can run with the gods, slaying rich gt3 owners and leaving z06 'glass shards in my wake.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

i see no problem sticking with the 1.6, it's not exactly like a 1.8 is a huge earth shattering torque monster. based on dynos over the years you're giving up about 20whp with the 1.6

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

you will be kicking yourself having invested so much money in the 1.6 when you could have "feasibly" made your 1.8 into a 2.0 in the future. Any motor is price creep inducing. I want to slap headers and an intake on my KA24E, but whats the point?

webby459

iTrader: (8)

Anyone have any feedback on the belfab hp kit? Cheaper to buy the stuff piecemeal? I have seen some of the customer service issues members here have had with belfab, so duly warned.

the_man

Extending that logic, why spend money on a turbo and 1.8L engine if you could have "feasibly" swapped in an LSx in the future? You make the best decision based upon the situation at hand and go from there.

The 1.6L is a fine motor. The 1.8 has its advantages for sure. I don't think that the advantages of the 1.8 outweigh the simplicity of staying with my 1.6 for the time being, though.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

my point exactly, also people think a 2.0 liter is the holy grail, why not swap in a sr20 for cheap

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

If you look at any of my threads, you'll see I'm in the same school of thought. When you already have a turboed 1.6 the "upgrade" to a 1.8 is not so cut and dry, or as cheap as everyone seems to think.

Brian

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

It just seems to me if you're doing all the work of pulling the engine and such, and you intend to buy forged internals anyway, that you ought to go with the displacement.

If you were going to go cheap then I'd say don't do it, but if you spend some money on building it nice and don't get the extra cubes, you'll always think to yourself, "this is great, I can imagine what a 1.8 must feel like!"

You can always get some money back selling the old crap.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

an early 1.8 and the 99-head are 2-different animals. If you're not getting a 99 head, then I'd probably stay with the 1.6.

webby459

iTrader: (8)

Neo, thanks a lot, originally I didn't look at your newest build thread to realize it was B6, I will study it. It looks to be something like $800-1000 for the 1.8 convo if I can find a very cheap longblock.

Hustler, the potential to upgrade the 1.8 to the 99 head exists, however. And other than the intake mani and VICS control, not much else would need to be done, right? Cost creep, here we come...

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Agreed, additional cost could be worth the performance increase. People just have to realize that there is a cost increase.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

You don't have to use it, it can stay open. However, going the 99-route is a pretty significant price jump. In hindsight I'm happy with the 99 motor over a 1.6. It drives like a truck on the street.

webby459

iTrader: (8)

Point taken, thanks for the replies, everyone. I have what I need, build to begin in November. /thread