wait wut?

 

Glad I'm not the only one confused. Did you add a ground wire? or a new wire to the injectors for power?

 

I didn't add a new ground, but I took the original ground and spliced some off and grounded it and that did nothing. How should I wire a new wire to the injectors for power? Just run them the same way the original is running?

http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/94sys.pdf

On page 8 is the diagram I'm looking at. It looks to me like the blue/white wire that I found which is nearly broken (there is like on small copper strand holding it together) runs from the Powertrain Control module (engine) to the Powertrain Control module (transmission)

 

Wait, is your car working again now or not?

do you have an auto trans?

 

No, I was joking. I thought triple88a was being an *** because I screwed up on the electrical stuff so I just kinda blew off what he said. Was he not joking? And no the car is a manual

 

I was joking, wasnt being an ***.

 

Okay that's what I thought. Do you have any real suggestions to my issue?

 

No clue, my guess would be the wire reroutes are to blame.

 

I like how i did 3 pages with him on CR for about a month, or more.

This thread, in a couple days, 3 pages....


Still no solution.

 

I was just explaining that to someone how in over a month it took to get 3 pages on the stance-website with no result. In 2 days 3 pages on the turbo/engine/people who are educated about important things not just slammed cars-website

I want to know more about connecting a new power wire to the injectors. Would i just stick a new wire and run it to the relay following the original one? What about the other wire that's connected to the injector?

 

Well, run a diagnostic on it before putting a new wire in(which seems silly and pointless).

Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?

Do you have a fluke meter by chance?

 

I started de-looming the injector wiring harness today, spliced together the blue/white that I talked about and will continue tomorrow. I have a multi-meter, if that's what you mean by fluke meter.

The part I don't understand is that I drove the car after the tuck and it was fine. Also, the pump seemed to not be working well anymore. It still pumped fuel but when I removed the line under the hood, it was barely coming out. The fuel pump relay seems to have gone bad at the same time as well...

 

If anything is going through holes in the sheet metal check those areas, could have cut through the wires.

 

Your symtoms are not happening in isolation. The "bad FP relay" is not an additional problem, but a manifestation of the same issue. Figure out one, and you'll have the other figured out. I seriously doubt the relay itself is bad, my bet is it's not getting it's activation power/signal

 

then why are you worried about a wire that's only useful if you have an auto trans?

you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.

once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.

 

I was worried about it because it looked like the wire had been chewed through, smd seemed rather important. As for the injectors not getting 12v, first of all, will they see 12v with the car in RUN or only while cranking?

 

they sure as hell better see power on RUN, but yes, they should be powered on ON, RUN, and cranking.

anytime you see power in the diagnostics port on B+, so shall the injectors. PLEASE finally test this.

 

I did check it, refer to page 2. Im getting 11.7v to B+

 

Yep, but what are you getting at the injector? B+ is a nice place to check, but the injector is where it really counts. Remember we suspect your wiring due to the tuck you did.

 

Braineack wanted me to check B+. To clarify im getting 11.7 at B+ and 0 at the injectors.