Chemically stripping engine block. Yea or nay?
#1
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Chemically stripping engine block. Yea or nay?
In the next week or two I will be pulling apart my short block to prep it for the engine shop. The shop I am sending it to said that if I have them strip the block bare it will cause wear to the block which may require some extra machining processes.
For other non-engine projects friend of mine have used chemical stripping called "Alkaline electrolytic immersion" to strip all paint and corrosion.
Here is the page from the website Redi-Strip Company | Paint Stripping and De-Rusting | Roselle, IL.
Is there any reason I SHOULDN'T go that route with my block? Are there any items I should or should NOT have dipped? For example, should I have the windage tray dipped? How about squirters? Should the main caps be sent or could I just keep them at home since they are oil bathed constantly anyhow?
I am also tempted to send my valve cover and oil pan while I am at it. From experience it comes back beautiful.
Thanks!
For other non-engine projects friend of mine have used chemical stripping called "Alkaline electrolytic immersion" to strip all paint and corrosion.
Here is the page from the website Redi-Strip Company | Paint Stripping and De-Rusting | Roselle, IL.
Is there any reason I SHOULDN'T go that route with my block? Are there any items I should or should NOT have dipped? For example, should I have the windage tray dipped? How about squirters? Should the main caps be sent or could I just keep them at home since they are oil bathed constantly anyhow?
I am also tempted to send my valve cover and oil pan while I am at it. From experience it comes back beautiful.
Thanks!
#4
Yes, taken apart, cleaned, bored/honed, hot tanked. I've done many times.
I just don't understand what they mean by "if we strip it, it will cause wear, requiring machining"
what wear?
and if they're talking about bearings/cams, obviously you have to use assembly lube or oil when re-assembling it
I just don't understand what they mean by "if we strip it, it will cause wear, requiring machining"
what wear?
and if they're talking about bearings/cams, obviously you have to use assembly lube or oil when re-assembling it
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It is my understanding that the only method this shop has to completely remove paint and rust is to blast it with some sort of medium. They said that if they blast it, it may require more machine work. I may not be describing their process correctly or exactly what they said, but this not some shitty machine shop. They literally have a year wait for a machine/assemble and they have been recommended as the best machine shop in the Chicago area/midwest.
#7
I'm just trying to understand the process, not saying it's bad or something.
So they bead blast it?
I've always just had mine cleaned/hot tanked, never bead blasted. You'll need to paint the block anyway or it will look poopy (literally) in a short time since it's cast iron.
I wouldn't go any further than degreasing and hot tanking. Just my .02
So they bead blast it?
I've always just had mine cleaned/hot tanked, never bead blasted. You'll need to paint the block anyway or it will look poopy (literally) in a short time since it's cast iron.
I wouldn't go any further than degreasing and hot tanking. Just my .02
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I imagine it's something like that. Perhaps the hot tank system they use is less caustic than the kind that removes rust? Of course I plan on painting it, but I just want to make sure get all rust off before I start.
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