AN converted coolant reroute brought to you by a 1.6L powered FC
12-03-2012, 03:58 PM
#21
Go back to your NA heap of ****. Prove why they are "poverty" without threatening to ban you moron. That's right, you can't.
Where is the proof? Where are your data logs of a 50* drop? Again, go back to your NA heap of ****. This is a turbocharged Miata forum.
So it's one of those, "it's really expensive so it must be the best right?" So why do you people run Eagle rods? Why not Carrillo? They are the most expensive and the best? That doesn't make any sense? TruCool coolers work fantastic, I have won 2 national championships and 3 state championships using their oil coolers, tell me Trey, what have you won? If that is your peoples theory, "you get what you pay for" then I'm sorry. NASCAR uses C&R radiators, we should all get those. They would cost the most money and work the best, so you get what you pay for. Maybe we should all run drysumps, you get what you pay for with the Mazda oil pump, even with billet gears. Dry sump is far superior, you get what you pay for.
Where is the proof? Where are your data logs of a 50* drop? Again, go back to your NA heap of ****. This is a turbocharged Miata forum.
So it's one of those, "it's really expensive so it must be the best right?" So why do you people run Eagle rods? Why not Carrillo? They are the most expensive and the best? That doesn't make any sense? TruCool coolers work fantastic, I have won 2 national championships and 3 state championships using their oil coolers, tell me Trey, what have you won? If that is your peoples theory, "you get what you pay for" then I'm sorry. NASCAR uses C&R radiators, we should all get those. They would cost the most money and work the best, so you get what you pay for. Maybe we should all run drysumps, you get what you pay for with the Mazda oil pump, even with billet gears. Dry sump is far superior, you get what you pay for.
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12-03-2012, 04:26 PM
#22
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Who **** in your Wheaties this morning? You said that Mocal coolers were overpriced, I said they work better and are therefore worth the extra money, and your response is a paragraph of pre-pubescent whining and overgeneralization? You seem like a cool guy in person, but you're way, way off base here.
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12-03-2012, 05:13 PM
#23
$7000 dollars in damage to my Subaru, getting sued by the guy and just generally annoyed. I just get annoyed with that rationale of people on here, people have a generalization that if it's not such and such brand, its ****. It's absolutely stupid, and I have still never seen proof of a Mocal/Earls/Setrab outperforming a TruCool, and if it does by how much? Because upwards of 80% more cost is outrageous for a product that works flawlessly. I have wrecked a few racecars in my day, and I will be the first to commend the design of the TruCool that allows it to hit a concrete wall, be shaped like a pretzel and not leak and let me finish the weekend. Where I've had a Setrab start to leak around the fittings for no reason other than vibrations.
Whatever, my rant is over. I build my cars with the most appropriate materials I see fit. And if I don't like it I build something that does what I want and performs like I want it to, or pursue an alternative product/manufacturer.
Whatever, my rant is over. I build my cars with the most appropriate materials I see fit. And if I don't like it I build something that does what I want and performs like I want it to, or pursue an alternative product/manufacturer.
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12-03-2012, 08:18 PM
#25
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There are a lot of cases where a cheap product does the job just as well as an expensive product. This is not one of those cases.
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12-03-2012, 08:56 PM
#27
I would show the Head-On photos sequence of pictures but their website isn't working right now.
Like I said, I choose the best parts I see fit. I can tell you it requires 3 Setrabs to do the same cooling as 2 TruCools in a Thunder Roadster. In completely ducted and sealed nose.
OP sorry for the off topic. Bad *** build, clean setup. Excellent choice in parts, I have always been a fan of red/blue with SS lines. But the all black looks really nice.
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12-03-2012, 09:37 PM
#28
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I'm curious.
Stock Miata radiator hose, actual ID = 1.25". Cross-sectional area = 1.23".
-16AN hose, actual ID = 7/8". Cross-sectional area = 0.60".
0.6" is 50% less than 1.2".
Thoughts?
Stock Miata radiator hose, actual ID = 1.25". Cross-sectional area = 1.23".
-16AN hose, actual ID = 7/8". Cross-sectional area = 0.60".
0.6" is 50% less than 1.2".
Thoughts?
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12-05-2012, 09:06 AM
#30
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Ok I tried to multi quote from my phone and failed so here it is, everything is fragola, a local guy uses their stuff in all his LS swap kits (fueled racing) and has had good luck so I went with their stuff because I'm not made of money.
Thanks for all the compliments and controversy.
The diameter issue, it seems fairly accepted to run -16 hoses with no problem as far as flow/cooling issues. This is a car built for drifting but with all the SR/JZ powered cars that do similar setups they use -16 I think it will be ok.
F1 cars use hose clamps? That's cool. This motor is in and FC and it's vmount. It's EASIER to change over to AN than to try and find some rubber hoses that would work. Plus with the position of the radiator there is no way I could run a hose to that bottom port of the radiator.
Again thanks for all the compliments guys, I haven't seen many people do this kind of stuff so just wanted to provide an idea for what can be done if there was interest. I can't wait to get this car fired up.
Thanks for all the compliments and controversy.
The diameter issue, it seems fairly accepted to run -16 hoses with no problem as far as flow/cooling issues. This is a car built for drifting but with all the SR/JZ powered cars that do similar setups they use -16 I think it will be ok.
F1 cars use hose clamps? That's cool. This motor is in and FC and it's vmount. It's EASIER to change over to AN than to try and find some rubber hoses that would work. Plus with the position of the radiator there is no way I could run a hose to that bottom port of the radiator.
Again thanks for all the compliments guys, I haven't seen many people do this kind of stuff so just wanted to provide an idea for what can be done if there was interest. I can't wait to get this car fired up.
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01-20-2013, 12:21 AM
#33
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Did more work on it today, Got all of my fuel line stuff in the mail and I will probably plumb that tomorrow. Got a bunch of stuff put in the engine bay for hopefully the final time. I wanted to feel like I was making progress so I put a bunch of my shiny **** in the car so I could take pictures and feel accomplished. The list keeps getting smaller and there is slowly but surely and end in sight which is a crazy feeling. Never thought this thing would ever get close to done.
Got my intake manifold plugged and deleted all the emissions bullshit.
deleted IACV ****
Got my catch can in the mail
Shiny ****:
Sweet firewall clearances
Got my intake manifold plugged and deleted all the emissions bullshit.
deleted IACV ****
Got my catch can in the mail
Shiny ****:
Sweet firewall clearances
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01-21-2013, 11:28 PM
#35
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Got more stuff finished today, finally making progress and getting really motivated still. Haven't had too many problems recently, so I'm expecting something major soon. My only recent problem is my tilton master cylinder started leaking pretty badly inside the cabin and ruined the paint. I'll rebuild/replace it and spray paint the part that fucked up.
Today I got all my fuel lines (sans one fitting) finished, my gauge cluster is 90% done, just need to tidy up the panel, and mounted the AWESOME fitting overfenders, oh yeah, I have fancy LED taillights too.
Today I got all my fuel lines (sans one fitting) finished, my gauge cluster is 90% done, just need to tidy up the panel, and mounted the AWESOME fitting overfenders, oh yeah, I have fancy LED taillights too.
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02-05-2013, 10:34 PM
#37
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suddenly broke so purchasing has slowed down, however, I got more shiny **** and put the car on the ground. Oh yeah, I lowered it because George is a *****. <3
2011 sideskirts which are already ground down an inch, I will put full man skirt on when I get time.
Shiny
Coils will include a hold down bracket
On the ground for the first time in a while (some **** no one here will like, you're welcome)
2011 sideskirts which are already ground down an inch, I will put full man skirt on when I get time.
Shiny
Coils will include a hold down bracket
On the ground for the first time in a while (some **** no one here will like, you're welcome)
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