AN converted coolant reroute brought to you by a 1.6L powered FC
#83
Super late to the party here, but the earliest comment about diameter of the coolant lines is actually wrong. You're dealing with a pi ratio there. 2 pi r or 1 pi d so if you cut diameter in half you're getting pi-x less coolant assuming equal flow velocity (which probably isn't true, it more than likely sped up velocity just like a smaller exhaust). So roughly 30% efficiency.
#90
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I guess I meant to post this in this thread instead of my older one.
Still Ill save the long boring story for all of you.
Most important part, is I'm finally taking it to a dyno on January 9th. Really just want to see what it makes and finally know/have proof (or be disappointed).
Anyway, my two current problems are:
Leaks water out the headgasket, but doesn't seem like any is getting into the cylinder. Did this on the last motor and still does it on the new one. Too much pressure in the cooling system? (30psi rad cap) Too much boost on stock HG?
The other problem I'm having is a lot of blow by. I don't really know how to fix the problem. My crank case is vented from just behind the alternator (factory nipple) and then both sides of the head vent to the catch can.
I did discover that the CAS will royally **** everything up if it doesn't have its own dedicated chassis ground. When it was only grounding through the harness it caused a lot of voltage drop everywhere and we tuned around that problem for like a year. Now that it's fixed it runs awesome.
I just spent 20 minutes writing an elaborate post explaining my life. It told me to sign in when I hit post and I lost the whole post.
I blew my motor up. It over heated (really bad). No water pump belt. whoops
I put a new used motor in.
I'm going to the dyno January 9th
I have problems with coolant leaking out the motor at the headgasket. IDK why
CAS needs a dedicated ground (found out the hard way)
Here's my motor and some specs
93 1.6L (100k miles?)
Bone stock internals
Rotella T 15w40
E-85 fuel
1000cc ID injectors
walbro 255lph
flying miata fuel rail
EBAY! TO4E 50trim .64AR turbo
1.5-1.6bar
Custom long tube exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wastegate
3" exhaust from turbo (no muffler/restriction)
Vmount intercooler
BEGI intake manifold
Stock TB
Greddy profec B EBC
AEM EMS 4
LS2 Coils (Sequential)
AEM CAS disc
37mm Koyo
Taurus fan
An coolant reroute
140A (rebuilt) FC alternator
MR2 Electric PS pump
Here's me putting the best oil ever in my motor.
Here's my car, because I know you like drift cars.
Still Ill save the long boring story for all of you.
Most important part, is I'm finally taking it to a dyno on January 9th. Really just want to see what it makes and finally know/have proof (or be disappointed).
Anyway, my two current problems are:
Leaks water out the headgasket, but doesn't seem like any is getting into the cylinder. Did this on the last motor and still does it on the new one. Too much pressure in the cooling system? (30psi rad cap) Too much boost on stock HG?
The other problem I'm having is a lot of blow by. I don't really know how to fix the problem. My crank case is vented from just behind the alternator (factory nipple) and then both sides of the head vent to the catch can.
I did discover that the CAS will royally **** everything up if it doesn't have its own dedicated chassis ground. When it was only grounding through the harness it caused a lot of voltage drop everywhere and we tuned around that problem for like a year. Now that it's fixed it runs awesome.
I just spent 20 minutes writing an elaborate post explaining my life. It told me to sign in when I hit post and I lost the whole post.
I blew my motor up. It over heated (really bad). No water pump belt. whoops
I put a new used motor in.
I'm going to the dyno January 9th
I have problems with coolant leaking out the motor at the headgasket. IDK why
CAS needs a dedicated ground (found out the hard way)
Here's my motor and some specs
93 1.6L (100k miles?)
Bone stock internals
Rotella T 15w40
E-85 fuel
1000cc ID injectors
walbro 255lph
flying miata fuel rail
EBAY! TO4E 50trim .64AR turbo
1.5-1.6bar
Custom long tube exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wastegate
3" exhaust from turbo (no muffler/restriction)
Vmount intercooler
BEGI intake manifold
Stock TB
Greddy profec B EBC
AEM EMS 4
LS2 Coils (Sequential)
AEM CAS disc
37mm Koyo
Taurus fan
An coolant reroute
140A (rebuilt) FC alternator
MR2 Electric PS pump
Here's me putting the best oil ever in my motor.
Here's my car, because I know you like drift cars.
#91
From one fellow 1600 to another sweet car!
Not a fan of drifting either but a big fan of functional projects and how you are out there doing what you love. (not to mention a very thick skin from this tough crowd :lol: )
Very interested in your dyno.....with a ported head, supertech pistons (8.5 CR?) and 16 psi t28 turbo with .46 hot side we made 265 HP at the wheels...fairly tame timing and on the rich side, fuelling.....cant remember the torque ..maybe 175 - 180..? cant honestly remember, that figure could be way wrong.
Not a fan of drifting either but a big fan of functional projects and how you are out there doing what you love. (not to mention a very thick skin from this tough crowd :lol: )
Very interested in your dyno.....with a ported head, supertech pistons (8.5 CR?) and 16 psi t28 turbo with .46 hot side we made 265 HP at the wheels...fairly tame timing and on the rich side, fuelling.....cant remember the torque ..maybe 175 - 180..? cant honestly remember, that figure could be way wrong.
#92
Super late to the party here, but the earliest comment about diameter of the coolant lines is actually wrong. You're dealing with a pi ratio there. 2 pi r or 1 pi d so if you cut diameter in half you're getting pi-x less coolant assuming equal flow velocity (which probably isn't true, it more than likely sped up velocity just like a smaller exhaust). So roughly 30% efficiency.
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