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No- I haven't bought it. Like most of these, you really don't know until you have it hand. But I was considering trying it out at some point.
There's several different brands to choose from and they all claim to "all copper". The one above lists:
Made from 100% Electrilytic Tough Pitch (ETP) copper.
Which doesn't leave much for being composed of anything else. Otoh they could be claiming that of the copper in this product ALL OF IT is ETP.
Looks like a good find. However, might the large, flat surfaces of the Chore-Boy be better at coagulating (maybe not the right word) the oil droplets.
ETP is a bulk material, not a coating. I did not see a weight mentioned. I suspect it is solid copper. Home Depot Racing says it is. Basically electrical wire woven to shape.
I'd like to see a slow-motion video of the machine that produces this stuff.
Ended up buying one of these on a whim for a simple catch can drain solution and absolutely love it. They have a variety of sizes that should fit most catch cans.
I'll add my setup to the collective. I did a ****-ton less research than reading this whole thread and went with the KazeSpec can - two chambers, one with vacuum source and one VTA. I'm running the Rotrex, so standard routing didnt apply - instead of using the IM as a vacuum source, I tapped into the supercharger intake. No reason this configuration couldn't be used for any forced induction setup... just not sure if it would benefit anything.
I'll totally admit it though - I had no good reason to actually employ a catch can other than I wanted to. The motor is a brand new forged longblock that hasnt run yet, so this is still in the build phase and has not been tested. Vent hose is routed around the back of the supercharger intake for now.
I bought some of this stuff and pack my catch can with it. It is in fact pure copper and it's paper thin. Looks to be a very good material with lots of surface area for vapor condensation. Also picked up a sight glass for monitoring level. They're $1 each on eBay from china.
Roughly 5,000 miles and counting. It was an update/upgrade from the 2006 iteration with the copper mesh, not a fresh build. Looks fine on the outside and like new on the inside. Drilled and threaded fine. Yeah it's a street car, but we're talking about southern heat/traffic, 6 hour road trips, and lots of boosted runs in those miles. That must mean engine bay temps are in check and it's still strong enough to hold vapor. So surely it would work for an autocross car. As long as there's no cheater bends.
Was planning on doing the following single can setup:
\
The idea being that:
- Air doesnt flow from the crankcase directly to the breather (as it will soak the vapours)
- Normal PCV functionality remains (air doesn't get pulled from the breather in the can due to the check valve)
- Blowby gets vented to air via the catch can
- Under boost the air doesn't get vented or make its way into the crankcase
The catch can catches the blowby. That's why there's so much mesh between the engine side and the intake side in the can. Just put the can between the pcv valve and the crank breather on the intake side. Breather goes on the other side crank breather. Really that simple.
I don't understand the point of any of that. The way the diagram looks seems to suggest that the crankcase pressure will only be alleviated in a vacuum state.
Okay, took some more time to think. I guess in my head I still wanted to get the negative pressure from the IM when needed - but I guess that's not really required if you just route both connections from the crankcase to the can (which has a breather) and plug the hole in the IM?
Okay, took some more time to think. I guess in my head I still wanted to get the negative pressure from the IM when needed - but I guess that's not really required if you just route both connections from the crankcase to the can (which has a breather) and plug the hole in the IM?
That's a whole 'nother discussion. But with PCV in place, you need the PCV side of things to work one way, and the breather side to work another. Up to you if you want to remove PCV entirely, which yes, would need a vented can for both sides, plug IM.
That's a whole 'nother discussion. But with PCV in place, you need the PCV side of things to work one way, and the breather side to work another. Up to you if you want to remove PCV entirely, which yes, would need a vented can for both sides, plug IM.
Did some more reading on the PCV valve. In my head it was just a check valve - but I guess it's more than that. Thanks guys, for educating an idiot. Back to the drawing board.
- but I guess that's not really required if you just route both connections from the crankcase to the can (which has a breather) and plug the hole in the IM?
Looks like a good find. However, might the large, flat surfaces of the Chore-Boy be better at coagulating (maybe not the right word) the oil droplets.
ETP is a bulk material, not a coating. I did not see a weight mentioned. I suspect it is solid copper. Home Depot Racing says it is. Basically electrical wire woven to shape.
I'd like to see a slow-motion video of the machine that produces this stuff.
The company I work for sells wire mesh for EMI Shielding. It's a cool process. I'm not affiliated with the company in the video but they have a nice example of how it's done.
12-15-2017, 08:02 AM
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Roughly 5,000 miles and counting. It was an update/upgrade from the 2006 iteration with the copper mesh, not a fresh build. Looks fine on the outside and like new on the inside. Drilled and threaded fine. Yeah it's a street car, but we're talking about southern heat/traffic, 6 hour road trips, and lots of boosted runs in those miles. That must mean engine bay temps are in check and it's still strong enough to hold vapor. So surely it would work for an autocross car. 
As long as there's no cheater bends. 
