When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That looks like the same stuff I bought. You need to cut it, cutting it creates debris which is difficult to eliminate - fancy copper strands in your oil?. See above posts 252-254.
I pulled it flat, cut with a razor knife, put a compressed air gun on it and cleared out any of the scraps. All that was left were the long ends in the remaining piece I used. I clean cut metal parts that are used on my engine all the time. For example my entire intercooler tubing post air filter. And that had much finer particles.
Thanks, though I meant the actual chore boy branded ones since they're a known good quantity.
I put it back together without scrubbers though since I didn't have any and needed the car back together.
It wasn't a disaster before with the stock chamber hole and stock sized PCV hose. I'll see how it goes with an enlarged chamber hole, -10AN bung welded to ceiling and -10AN lines. Will report back.
Wishing everyone the best. I'm bumping this thread to mention that at four times the stock horsepower you may need four times the stock breather capacity and valve cover passages. Slowing down the airflow by opening the passages will allow the oil to settle out of the gasses. Big passages, big hoses, big fittings are your friend.
Sorry for the semi ressurection but I didn't want to create another catch can thread.
I was following carpassion Greg's method which is basically PCV intercept with a catch can between IM / PCV.
Video link: youtube com/watch?v=TcXKm-CUges
After hooking everything up I realized that in boost the catch can might get pressurized as well without some check valve and so started to research deeper in this thread.
Initially I was just worried about boost pressure in the catch can causing delay in spool / ect but now after reading this thread it seems his setup is 'wrong' or at least inadequate.
His car is high hp / boost but still a daily driver ( as mine would hopefully be ) so I can see why the PCV is desirable to apply a vacuum .. but in boost .. then the PCV is closed and all the crankcase venting is done on the hot side with the stock fitting / which should be inadequate but .. some how still works for 400+ hp ? I think I must be miss understanding something here.
Going forward, I'm thinking if I stay with this PCV intercept route I should make two adjustments / improvements.
1. relocate the PCV valve between the catch can outlet hose and the IM to prevent the catchcan from being pressurized under boost. Might need to switch out to a different inline PCV valve for this vs using the stock / GTX valve.
2. enlarge the hot side vent at least 2x to allow more pressure release under boost .. then either keep it VTA or route it back to the catch can as well.
Do you guys think that would be a good compromise for a high hp / boost car that would see street cruising miles as well ?
On mine (15psi 240hp) I capped pcv side. Enlarged hot side holes In valve cover baffle with copper scrubbers and ran a -10 line to a vented can. This same setup will be good for high hp as well.
Silly me I didn't find the new 'definitive' catch can thread which pretty much answered all my questions. In my defense, I blame google for not showing me that thread first.
Also found the Radium catch can write up is a great read and specifically addressed my first point of concern ( Blog Post Catch Cans 101 ).
Do I need to install a check valve to keep boost out of the catch can?
No. Radium Engineering catch cans are designed to withstand boost pressure and thus can be plumbed directly to the intake manifold without the need for a check valve.
I've replaced my tired motor that had lots of blowby. The current motor is an 84k one from UK motors. I need to add breathers to it, as I'm getting a few drops of oil on the exhaust manifold, from the breather that is stuck on the valve cover. I'm only running 11 lbs of boost, so not big power. I want to vent both the hot and cold side to a single can. I looked at the Allstar can and can't figure out how to get almost a foot of can to stand in the engine bay. The Radium ones are over $400 for two. I just can't swing that. Almost every other can I've looked at has an in line and an out line, like the one in the drawing below. My question is can I use it for both lines in and which one would be best for the pcv line?
I've replaced my tired motor that had lots of blowby. The current motor is an 84k one from UK motors. I need to add breathers to it, as I'm getting a few drops of oil on the exhaust manifold, from the breather that is stuck on the valve cover. I'm only running 11 lbs of boost, so not big power. I want to vent both the hot and cold side to a single can. I looked at the Allstar can and can't figure out how to get almost a foot of can to stand in the engine bay. The Radium ones are over $400 for two. I just can't swing that. Almost every other can I've looked at has an in line and an out line, like the one in the drawing below. My question is can I use it for both lines in and which one would be best for the pcv line?
See my post above. Vent just the hot side and cap the cold side. This catch can is easy to mount in the engine bay. GET THIS CAN
Just picked up this can which seems pretty well built / baffled and has TWO 10AN orb inputs with a big 1.75" breather at the top and come with mounting brackets. Holds quite a bit of fluid too.
I've replaced my tired motor that had lots of blowby. The current motor is an 84k one from UK motors. I need to add breathers to it, as I'm getting a few drops of oil on the exhaust manifold, from the breather that is stuck on the valve cover. I'm only running 11 lbs of boost, so not big power. I want to vent both the hot and cold side to a single can. I looked at the Allstar can and can't figure out how to get almost a foot of can to stand in the engine bay. The Radium ones are over $400 for two. I just can't swing that. Almost every other can I've looked at has an in line and an out line, like the one in the drawing below. My question is can I use it for both lines in and which one would be best for the pcv line?
Cut the wings off the Allstar and made bracket from 1/8" x 1" strap. Cut off 1/8" from the bosses of the radiator to fit bracket behind fan tabs.
I'll go ahead and post the picture here:
Others have mounted it in same basic position, but onto engine. Seems not such a good idea to mount a device meant to coalesce oil droplets to a vibrating engine, so I went to the radiator.
Cut the wings off the Allstar and made bracket from 1/8" x 1" strap. Cut off 1/8" from the bosses of the radiator to fit bracket behind fan tabs.
I'll go ahead and post the picture here:
Others have mounted it in same basic position, but onto engine. Seems not such a good idea to mount a device meant to coalesce oil droplets to a vibrating engine, so I went to the radiator.
That's really nice looking installation. My issue is that my fabrication skills are lame as hell. I cannot weld and around here the welders are as expensive as doctors. It would look hideous if I tried to make a bracket, using flat stock with nuts and bolts. Not sure if I could even make it fit that way. That's one of the reasons I was looking at the one I posted. I also looked into the ebay one posted prior, but it was sold out. I don't want any oil drips on the exhaust manifold so I'm keeping the wastegaste wired shut, so no boost until I get the catch can installed. It's amazing how little power these cars have after you get used to boost.
This one will fit and comes with installation brackets. It's a little more money but it would be a bolt on the firewall deal. I would just have to relocate the washer bottle. What do you think. I value all your opinions. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85473?rrec=true
There are multiple that look alike (and most probably are identical), and seems it could work OK with some minor adjustments. I got 2 as I planned to intercept one at each side using the OEM routing. They also make these in a 3-port configuration (2 inlets, 1 outlet VTA). Will report more once they are here; worst case I will scrap them.
There are multiple that look alike (and most probably are identical), and seems it could work OK with some minor adjustments. I got 2 as I planned to intercept one at each side using the OEM routing. They also make these in a 3-port configuration (2 inlets, 1 outlet VTA). Will report more once they are here; worst case I will scrap them.
So I’ve got the one inlet one outlet one also. There’s some pics of it in my
buIld thread and seems identical to the mishimoto. The only thing that I’d say about the quality is that the C clip that holds the baffle on (you’ll see what I mean) broke on mine. So, that seems like a weak spot in the design. The c clip broke and the baffle dropped to the bottom of the can. I haven’t decided yet on how I’ll fix it but maybe you should plan on reinforcing it somehow before it gets all nasty.
I got the Moroso catch can, which barely fits. I was going to mount it with 2 1'' long self tapping screws in the spots on the firewall that are marked in white. Is there any chance that I'm going to hit the ac evaporator?
Nice installation on the driver's side. The handmade tank is really badass. I still have the power steering resovoir in place, so I don't think I can mount it there. As I said my fabrication skills are limited to flat stock, nuts and bolts, so making one is out of my ballpark. I think moving the windshield washer tank and mounting it there is my only option. I just don't want to poke a hole in the evaporator or any lines. I guess I could tape a drill bit, so it only goes in 1/8". I could poke around for room after that. I was just being lazy and trying to avoid doing that. I thought maybe someone knew. If I punch a pilot hole would I be able to see daylight, if I took the glovebox out, or would the evaporator housing conceal it?
is this the correct setup to be running at ~20psi?
(ignore lots of other mess going on here, working on it)
That looks pretty good. If you find that you end up with too much oil in the can you may want to upsize to larger hoses and fittings on the valve cover.
10-16-2018, 04:38 PM
0
