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-   -   The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread. (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/definitive-vvt-swap-into-90-97-chassis-megathread-80469/)

joyrider 09-08-2014 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1165100)
99-00 coils are garbage, you're much better off retaining your stock 1.6/1.8 coils if you are doing a BP4W swap. I specifically left 99-00 coil info off the OP for that reason. :)

Yeah I know, I wrote those for 99-00 swapping a VvT in and using 01-05 ignition.

That was why I asked the question regarding the caps but I didn't install one in the harness (NB1) but will put one in the toolbox just in case or modify the other (NB2) harness

Ben 09-08-2014 09:50 PM


Originally Posted by greddygalant (Post 1165283)
Ben,
My 92 is the one curly mentioned, would you happen to have a link to an aftermarket tach adapter that would work for such an application?

Many exist. Here is one style:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8913

Savington 09-08-2014 10:09 PM


Originally Posted by joyrider (Post 1165329)
Yeah I know, I wrote those for 99-00 swapping a VvT in and using 01-05 ignition.

Touche, I'll add to the OP.

shuiend 09-09-2014 08:31 AM

Just FYI the stock 90-97 spark plug wires will fit into the VVT VC if you trim the rubber a little bit. I used a razor blade and slowly removed rubber off the top of the boot until they fit down fine. I have had no problems with them like that.

harrybeachdog 09-22-2014 02:46 PM

So where should the NA harness ECU ground point go?

Savington 09-22-2014 02:54 PM

The bracket for the 94-97 ECU grounds can be transferred over to the 01+ block. IIRC, the OEM 90-93 ECU grounds attach to the back of the intake manifold, and those can just be attached to the 99+ manifold.

zerogt86 09-28-2014 06:29 PM

Where do you typically route the extra wires through the firewall to the ECU?

Leafy 09-28-2014 08:42 PM


Originally Posted by zerogt86 (Post 1171188)
Where do you typically route the extra wires through the firewall to the ECU?

I put mine through the holes from the A/C delete.

curly 10-17-2014 10:55 PM

Alrightly. So Oregonmon has his VVT swapped '90 with a MS3, and GreddyGalant has his MSM swapped '92 now with a MS2PNP.

They're both screaming for tachs.

I've Ctrl-f'd every post with the word "tach" in it, and all they seem to say is "wire it to the tach".

Is this at the cluster? One of the ignitor wires I capped? Please spoon feed wire color and location. Thanks.

Savington 10-18-2014 12:00 AM


Originally Posted by curly (Post 1176579)
I've Ctrl-f'd every post with the word "tach" in it, and all they seem to say is "wire it to the tach".

Is this at the cluster? One of the ignitor wires I capped? Please spoon feed wire color and location. Thanks.

search noob


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1158403)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen..._explained-jpg

route 4 (yellow/blue) to 5 (black/white) (connects ECU directly to tachometer at gauge cluster)

Following the instructions in the op connects the tachometer in the cluster to the tach output wire (2I). If you've connected it that way, and you have a tach driver circuit, and it still doesn't work, you probably need a pullup resistor.

curly 10-18-2014 01:31 AM

Yup I did that, so just connect the tach output pin on the MS3 to 2I?

curly 10-18-2014 07:56 PM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1176585)
you probably need a pullup resistor.

Ok someone explain this?

Is this the 1k ohm resistor between -IG and GND in the diagnostic connector?

Tried that (both ways) and it didn't work. Black/white and yellow/blue are soldered together, tacho pin is enabled in TS, and still no tach. WTF.

Savington 10-18-2014 08:37 PM

Pullup resistors are (by definition) between a signal and a voltage. +B to -IG and your tach will work.

curly 10-18-2014 08:56 PM

Well, I thought I had it, but nope. 1k ohm resistor between -IG and B+ now and still nothing. Resistor flipped both ways, multiple resistors tried. Any other clues?

Zaphod 10-19-2014 02:21 AM

Put a direct wire between 2I and your tach input on the instrument cluster. I did it this way and it works (on my 97 1.6 Euro NA there was no wire from 2I to the igniter)

Reverant 10-19-2014 03:17 AM

Wire your tach signal from the cluster to pin 10 on the DB37.

Savington 10-19-2014 09:20 PM


Originally Posted by Zaphod (Post 1176754)
Put a direct wire between 2I and your tach input on the instrument cluster. I did it this way and it works (on my 97 1.6 Euro NA there was no wire from 2I to the igniter)

On every 90-93 USDM car, if you loop the wires as directed in the OP, you get a wire that is connected from 2I (black/white) to the cluster (yellow/blue) without routing a redundant wire to do the same job. Just FYI. Adding a wire to do that job is unnecessary and clutters things up.

Savington 10-19-2014 09:22 PM


Originally Posted by curly (Post 1176719)
Well, I thought I had it, but nope. 1k ohm resistor between -IG and B+ now and still nothing. Resistor flipped both ways, multiple resistors tried. Any other clues?

ECU settings, then. That I can't help with.

aidandj 10-19-2014 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by curly (Post 1176579)
Alrightly. So Oregonmon has his VVT swapped '90 with a MS3, and GreddyGalant has his MSM swapped '92 now with a MS2PNP.

They're both screaming for tachs.

I've Ctrl-f'd every post with the word "tach" in it, and all they seem to say is "wire it to the tach".

Is this at the cluster? One of the ignitor wires I capped? Please spoon feed wire color and location. Thanks.

Post tunes? Tach out set correctly? Pretty sure the ms3x card needs a jumper, but if its an mslabs ecu I'm not sure how Rev has that set up. Just throwing out ideas. According to this tach out is turned off by default.

carnut169 11-01-2014 08:45 AM

Thanks for putting this together.

I'm in the process of selling my entire powertrain (engine, trans, MS3, etc etc) and turbo setup to someone with a NA (think its a 95).

I'm going to install a LFX.

Being that we can use all of those working bits (I'm keeping my radiator/ fans, throttle cable, steering) how much of this will be necessary to perform the swap? I imagine I will be forced to use the GM harness and ECU so I could even swap over the harness.

We are thinking we'll simply take everything out of my car and swap it over to his.


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