Glad you were able to do this. I was hoping that I could reprogram the megasquirt to send the VVT signal over that wire, but if not then I can always just hack and splice on the ecu side as well. Still easier than running a new wire, and looks cleaner.

Is there anything similar I can use for the knock sensor? Maybe the unused factory O2 plug? Or one of the EGR plugs? Will investigate...

With the AEM I just moved the pin from one spot in the ECU plug to another (I think they are in the same plug). Just buy a tool to remove the pins and its makes life much easier.

Err... I was working the front end of the motor today, the 1.6L crank pully does not have the timing tabs for the crank angle sensor, so I am back to using the pully it came with and will need to source an alternator.

How exactly did you get this to work?

I ripped apart the Fuel rail harness the motor came with since it came with both sides of the 8 pin connector. Patched in my two coolant temperature sensors into this connector (1 2 pin sensor and 1 1 pin sensor in place of the 2004 3 pin sensor) with the intention of redoing the mating side. I figured I might as well leave the other 5 pins alone so that I can do sequential fuel injection and have a handy disconnect for removing the motor. However
I forgot to request that my MSLabs MS3 basic to have sequential fueling outputs. DOH. I guess I will just patch the chassis side of the cable to split out the 1/4 and the 2/3 signals to each individual injector, and run the extra wires in the bundle so that if I ever decide that I need it, I will just need to remove the jumper in the harness and do a bit of work on the ECU.

Also after seeing how the spark plug condensor and ground were run, I disliked it immensely. The condenser and ground are hooked up by running out the spark plug harness connector, back into a 4 pin connector at the front of the motor that is bundled with the FI harness and mounted at the rear of the motor. The condensor is supposed to help with voltage drop, why would you hang it off an unnecessarily long length of cable?!? Tore this apart and patched the condensor connector and the grounds directly into the injector harness, eliminating the 4 pin connector at the front of the motor, so now all that is up there is the 8 pin Fuel injector connector and the 2 pin knock sensor connector on the left and the Crank angle sensor connector on the right.

The timing wheel is just a disc, it can be removed and bolted in behind the 1.6 wheel, I'm assuming. It comes off after the 4 m6 bolts are removed.

All MS3s have sequential injection as far as I know, but if you order it in batch, Rev will jumper them together and send a batched base map. A few jumper changes and wiring changes, and you'll be set for sequential.

Sweet, I feel like a dumbass now, but at least I am not a dumbass who has to buy an alternator.

Well. I discovered something else. 1.6 alternator, or 1.8, you will need the alternator bracket from a 1994 or later. The 1.6L bracket wont fit, interferes with the mount point for the 1994+ bracket on the water pump...

Angle grinder bro. Or use a 90-93 water pump.

Knock sensor question. One wire into the appropriate ECU pigtail, where's the other go? Analog sensor ground? Does polarity matter?

The white wire is signal for the knock sensor. The other is just a shield, connect it to a chassis ground.

Will any old chassis ground work (the one at the front of the engine perhaps) or should I wire it back to the "analog sensor ground" on the megasquirt?

As its a shield and not a ground reference, any chassis ground will work.

Moving along. For the purpose of documentation, the Reverent MSLabs MS3 basic does support sequential injectors out of the box, however it will not be wired to the DB-37 unless requested, which I neglected to do. If one were to desire to hook them up the following changes would need to be made:

I am already buying pins and tools to service the ECU connector because one of the wires was messed up when I removed the ECU (details here: https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-gree...-rescue-79959/) so I will probably be hooking this up.

Next up:

Looking for an answer on this from Reverant for using one of his MS3 Basic PNPs for a 90-93. I suspect that I would have to purchase a middle connector for the ECU and add wires to it as if it was for a 1994-1997. On the middle connector pin "I" would be the 5V reference, On "F" would be the signal, and pin "O" would serve as ground.

Nope. Much easier Than that per the man himself. For MS labs MS3 Basic 90-93 PNP:

Make sure the pull the fuse as specified in the directions.

I ordered the 99-00 fuel rail from a scrappy expecting it to only have a fuel damper on the return end. But it came with a fuel pressure valve and return, and doesn't use fittings for the fuel pipes (it's clamp and hose). Otherwise it looks exactly like the 99-00.

It mated to the VVT engine, only needed to slightly bend the inlet pipe for it to clear the timing belt cover. I'm guessing it will work but I'm curious... If this is not an 99-00 rail, which one is it?

So... What have I been sent, do you guys have an idea?

Getting pics as soon as I get out from work.

Sounds like an 94-97, but pics will confirm.

Don't really know, but it mounts perfectly to the engine and the FPR return line does not interfere with the head. It's the pipe on the rail itself that does, which doesn't really match what's in the first post:


I'll get pics in a couple hours.

Okay, here are the photos of that rail I got. I took a (bad) picture of it in place without the top part of the manifold, and another one on my desk:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...422_210142.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...422_210921.jpg

You can see the pipe that goes around the rail is slightly bent to clear the head. Otherwise the rail is as it was, still with the fuel pipes on and all...

This is a picture of how it looked on my install. Looks like you may not have the proper rail.

http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_1001.jpg
http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_1002.jpg
http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_1003.jpg

Nope that's right. You usually have to trim the top of the manifold to stop from squishing that fuel line

Apart from the pipe that I had to slightly bend, the manifold clears the fuel rail just fine. Both pipes come out on below the throttle body. This is using the flat top manifold of course, I'm unsure about the VICS or VTCS ones...

Now, the rail looks just like gjsmith66's, except for the connector on the inlet pipe and the fact that it came with an FPR. Does it belong to a 94-97 then?