2002SilverMiata

I posted this on another thread for my Xede issues -
I have not had a chance to work on the car until today... today, I really screwed up:
I tightened every T-Clamp on the intercooler piping, and still the idle would not change. I tried to change the idle position screw still idled too high.
So, I tried to search for other ways and went to miata.net. Someone suggested doing the idle adjustment with TEN/GRND jump on the diagnosis box.
Such a simple thing to do (I thought) - Instead I completely fucked up, but jumping GRND to the one next to TEN, I guess B+ from a diagram I saw. The car died almost immediately. I would not start again at all.



I checked all the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box (on passenger side) and even changed the MAIN fuse, still, nothing.
Then, I looked at the XEDE to see if the light is flashing before the car is started (as it should), and there was nothing. I disconnected the Xede and reconnected the stock ECU, still nothing. The car is cranking, but not starting.
Did I fry the ECU? What should I do? I was trying to fix one problem, and started a completely new one!!!
Help please.

2002SilverMiata

Update: I pulled the EGI relay from the main fuse box but I have no idea how to test it. I was not getting continuity on any of the 4 leads on it... It may be the culprit.
Still need help

dustinb

I would think that since the stock ECU didn't fire it either, that you just blew a relay.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Did you check the fuse box under the dash too? Its by the clutch pedal. I think I've done this before too, jumped B+ and GND (battery to ground) with a piece of wire and it melted all the insulation off in seconds, forgot what I did to fix it though, sorry.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

The latest factory wiring diagram I have is for an '01, so I don't know how much this may have changed.

On that diagram, the B+ lead in the diagnostic box comes from the 15A "engine" fuse, and through common connector X-22, a 20 pin harness interconnect located under the dash in the vicinity of the steering column. The "engine" fuse is in the fuse box to the left of the driver's feet. It is a black/white wire from the fuse to the diag box.

The engine fuse is fed by a red/black wire that comes from the IG1 position of the keyswitch. The keyswitch is fed by a white/red wire that comes from the 40A "ignition key" fuse (in the under-hood fuse box) which is fed by the 80A "Main" fuse (same box) and that is fed by the big black wire from the battery.


Conceivably, any one of these fuses, connectors or wires could be melted. Obviously, start with the engine fuse and work your way back.





I'm not sure what the "EGI relay" is, however there are no relays in series with the short you created, and thus they are not likely the problem.